What do you do with "New Car" Piant?

Sveta

Sveta

New member
Seems like no matter how careful I have been I am finally seeing very fine washing (?) lines. Have always used #7 or VM, Carnauba or sealnats applied by hand.

I'm not sure I feel comfortable putting the PC on the paint as there is this "feeling" that that crystal clear clearcoat will be "hazed" even with a light abrassive like SSR1 (which I don't think levels down enough CC to get even super fine lines) and a "non-abrassive polish" like AIO doesn't really get them either. I PC abused and obviously "bad" paint and improve them a lot, but there are always those "deep" scratches that don't get "removed" and I find that can be lived with anyway to save CC depth.

Correcting some "dealer swirls" cleaned things up on a small area near the lower rear bumper of this white car, but there is a very very very slight but perceptable loose of surface "clarity" no matter how much the "swirls" seem to have been "removed". You see this non-clarity look best using a SINGLE LIGHT BULB in the dark garage, if you follow me.

QUESTION: What product, pad and technique do you use to restore that perfectly clear finish to a clear coat. Or is that an impossibilty due to the nature of using abrassives to remove CC?

Sure hope this makes sense and I'm not asking too complicated or rookie of a question. I am obviously not clicking on something because I never can get that super clean and clear look using a PC. Technique? What? Help appreciated. I would rather see a few washing lines then "cloady" up the nice CC on this car.
 
Products like #7, because of the oils they leave behind will cloud the clear. The clearest, brightest, most reflective finish I have obtained was achieved by finishing with Poorboys SSR1 on a Meguiars Polishing pad at max speed on the PC. I usually directly top that with UPP but am positive that EX-P will give you a very clear look also. If you want to top with a carnauba, I suggest Nattys because it is also very clear looking.
You are correct, SSR 1 will remove only the slightest marring. If you need something stronger step up to SSR 2 with a polishing pad or if more is needed use a cutting pad followed by a polishing pad.
I believe that the clear is in the best condition when sprayed on the vehicle and start going down hill from that moment forward. Polishing paint is in effect a process of reducing scratches until they are no longer visible to the human eye!
 
The first thing I did with my new car after cleaing off all the goo from the shipping sheets was to hit it with DACP and 4*SMR. No haze and no swirls now. ;)
 
I think the trick to get that full shine you want is fully working the polish until it nearly disappears on it's own. PC on max helps but 5 or so will do it. Just takes more time. Try working it a little longer instead of stopping when you think it's done.
 
I agree with the above posters. Use SSR1 on speed 5 or 6 with polish pad. There should not be any hazing. Make sure you work the product really good. Also remember that if you are working on a humid day hazing may be unavoidable.
 
SOG35 said:
Also remember that if you are working on a humid day hazing may be unavoidable.
Click to expand...

Could you explain how or why this happens? I've never heard this before.
 
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