What can I do to make waxing better?

Addicted2Bling

Addicted2Bling

New member
I waxed someone's Toyota Seqoia the other day. Using Poorboys EX-Sealant on a Dark Grey Sequoia, man that thing was shining! It looked so beautiful after I was done, I went over it a second time to make sure I buffed everything out. It was beautiful. I took the customers money and headed out the door.

2 weeks later, I get a call from the same customer telling me that she still has wax on her car and that I didn't buff everything off. Pfffffttt, no way, I thought she was just blowing smoke. So I head down there, and sure enough, dried sealant along the crevices some on the flat areas. I could not believe it. I had no idea there was still residue on the car.

What can I do to make buffing out sealant better? I'm probably going to start using a brush along the cracks and crevices next time. I'm thinking letting the wax or sealant dry more next time. I don't know, any suggestions?
 
Ive never experienced that with EX-P, but I can see how it could happen. It may not be the "DIR" way of doing it, but when Im applying LSPs, I stick to the same rule as when Im wetsanding. I stay a 1/4 inch or so away from plastic and areas that I know are going to give me grief when it comes to wiping it off. My theory is since I always do the WOWO method, those small areas are still being addressed during the wipedown. Now that theory may be wrong, but time is money and I cant spend an hour going around digging wax out of cracks when its avoidable. Also if you do a lot of quick wash/wax jobs, check out HydrO2. I know it carries a big sticker shock, but the time it saves makes it worth it. Honestly it looks better and lasts longer than most of the LSPs out there, and its ridiculously fast. Best of all..no residue :)
 
I find also doing 2 coats (if you're able) makes sure you don't miss any areas. But thats a great tip ^ to avoid high risk areas. Just don't promise perfection, it's impossible to ensure 100%
 
mrclean81 said:
I stay a 1/4 inch or so away from plastic and areas that I know are going to give me grief when it comes to wiping it off. My theory is since I always do the WOWO method, those small areas are still being addressed during the wipedown. Now that theory may be wrong, but time is money and I cant spend an hour going around digging wax out of cracks when its avoidable. Also if you do a lot of quick wash/wax jobs, check out HydrO2. I know it carries a big sticker shock, but the time it saves makes it worth it. Honestly it looks better and lasts longer than most of the LSPs out there, and its ridiculously fast. Best of all..no residue :)
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Yeah, I think that's what I'm going to have to start doing from now on. I get so caught up in trying to make everything perfect that it ends up backfireing on me. 1 step forward, 2 steps back...

I like the way that Hydr02 sounds, if I could use it in the sun it would be a definite go. That's why I like Ex-Sealant, if I could just learn how to use it:wall

Nth Degree said:
Old restaurant gift card wrapped in a MF towel for the crevices works great and is very quick.
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That's a great idea thanks. I've also heard of using a clipped paintbrush. The bristles are soft enough not to marr the paint but are strong enough to take the wax out.
 
It works fine in the sun as long as you move quickly. Spray it on a wet car and power wash it off..doesnt get much easier than that :bigups
 
Some LSP's are worse than others about dried residue that does not show readily. You clean out the cracks, emblems, edges (like between doors, along tape lines, etc) as a rule and then use a good inspection light or view in the sun if possible to go around slowly to check areas.
 
Back in the days of DetailCity I had a similar problem with Poor boy's EX or EX-P. Not so much the crevice and gap deposits but product that needed to be buffed off in the middle of my hood, on the deck lid & elsewhere. I'm human and may miss a spot here or there but middle of my hood?

i had used the product before & after this incident and, when keeping an eye on humidity, have not had a problem since. I found the product buffed off easily so the spots I found the following morning that I had "missed" were tough to explain.

Steve (Poor boy's) posted a thread asking if others had noticed a similar issue with either of the EX products & he got quite a few responses. I'm pretty sure the problem was caused by high humidity / dew point but can't be positive After so many years.
 
I've had the same issue with EX-P last Wednesday. I chalked it up to inexperience as this was the first time I was using the product. I applied by hand and tried to buff off by hand. I let it sit for approx. 60 mins as directed. It was insanely difficult to get off and the next day I noticed a bunch of spots that look like I never touched them. I was cursing all those reviews that said how easy it was to buff off.

It was quite humid, night time and after a wash/clay/polish. Kinda disappointing because I basically had to scrub off the spots that showed back up.

Wonder if there is a solution to this.
 
Mike262 said:
I've had the same issue with EX-P last Wednesday. I chalked it up to inexperience as this was the first time I was using the product. I applied by hand and tried to buff off by hand. I let it sit for approx. 60 mins as directed. It was insanely difficult to get off and the next day I noticed a bunch of spots that look like I never touched them. I was cursing all those reviews that said how easy it was to buff off.

It was quite humid, night time and after a wash/clay/polish. Kinda disappointing because I basically had to scrub off the spots that showed back up.

Wonder if there is a solution to this.
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Ive used it for years and learned a long time ago not to let it sit up. Ill do a couple panels and immediately remove it. It comes off much easier that way but its not going to just wipe off like Fuzion or something. Its like cement if it completely dries, especially if your working in the sun. EX-P is one of the better sealants out there but there is a learning curve with it.
 
^^I've been using EX-P for 2 months now, and I love how easy it buffs off, I love the reflective shine it has. But the problem with EX-P is that it dries transparent, but after it cures it turns white. Maybe I'm not putting it on thin enough? Maybe I need to start using a DA? Maybe I need to sit around longer and wait for it to cure more? I don't know, but before I give up on this stuff I would like to find a way to make it work...

Mrclean I think I'm going to give that Hydr02 a shot, but quick question though, how long does the 100ML size last? How many cars is that capable of doing?
 
Finial wipe down using QD works for me...however I've used EX-P for years, and in some cases. I've seen areas, that I know I've gone over that the next day or days later I see some residue.

How long are you waiting before you remove it? For me I finish up all the paint, then while it drys, I do the wheels, tires, wells, trims, etc..That leaves enough time for the EX-P to really set up.
 
^^Do you use it out in the sun? If the sun is beaming on the car I will do about 2 panels, then buff it off. Most of the cars I do are out in the sun and I won't let a car dry with that stuff on or else it will be like trying to remove rubber cement, which I found out the hard way...
 
Addicted2Bling said:
^^Do you use it out in the sun? If the sun is beaming on the car I will do about 2 panels, then buff it off. Most of the cars I do are out in the sun and I won't let a car dry with that stuff on or else it will be like trying to remove rubber cement, which I found out the hard way...
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No all my work is done indoors..I would suggest calling Steve about this, when I started using his line over 10 year back he was really good with advice..My feelings are the sun will not setup the EX-P an harder to remove in the sun or not..but that's just my guess.
 
I can vouch that EX-P, in full sunlight, dries like cement if its left to dry. Using the WOPO method prevents this, but Im not sure that its the "correct" method for this product. Ive seen Steve and Pockets both say to let it set up for a while before removal, but you just cant when its 100 degrees and your working in the sun.

A2B, Im not trying to jack your thread, but here is a couple pics of a motorhome I done recently with HydrO2. It only took an 1 1/2 hours to wash and wax this thing. It would have otherwise been at least a 6 hour job.


 
1 1/2 hours??? That's amazing. And it has a nice shine too. Yeah that sounds like something I would definitely want to try, but I'm wondering, How long will a 100ML size last? How many cars is it capable of doing?
 
Beemerboy said:
Since I've never worked with it in the sun, I really didn't know...thanks
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It works great, I love the shine it gives, but having to deal with the leftover residue is starting to become a problem. I will give steve a shout, I also read on here that humidity plays a vital role on the way it dries. So maybe that has something to do with it, who knows.
 
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