What after Klasse AIO?

gead0001

New member
I'm probably going to be ordering Klasse AIO for my new Black Civic Hybrid. After reading about issues with Klasse SG,.....I'm thinking of not using the SG since people comment about it's difficulty to remove if not applied very thin......I just don't think I want to deal with a difficult sealant.



If I use Klasse AIO, what would you follow it up with for protection?? maybe Pinnacle Souveran?? or Meguiars NXT 2.0??



let me know what would be an alternative to Klasse SG.



thanx
 
Honestly, given the excellent reviews of the nano replacements for Klasse, I would go with Werkstatt Prime and Acrylic Jett or AJT as I mentioned in your other thread.
 
obviously the Klasse sealant glaze is a good choice also...

just apply it very thin...do one panel at a time...



I use a spray bottle with a 5:1 mix distilled water:SG to remove any stubborn spots...I also use it for touch up after a wash...



it may not be the best looking, but it easy to use and durable...

and looks good enough for 'optical maintenance' (as oppossed to mechanical maintenance) :D



almost 25 year old paint...
 

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Thanks setec (and others) for your replies. Setec, sorry I had a Brain f^rt, and wasn't comprehending what you were trying to tell me...that Klasse had been superseded by werkstatt products.



So Prime followed by Aj would most likely be the way to go??





by the way....Thursday I stayed home from work with my sick Daughter, and I washed, clayed, and applied the old "der Shiney Stuff" to the Civic. It came out wonderfully, but at the end of the day, I dropped the "der Shiney stuff" bottle on the driveway, and split the bottle leaking everywhere, so I definitely need to order something. Looks like the Prime and AJ might be the way to go. Let me know.



also, by your sig, are you into Astronomy? I have 4 telescopes.



Don

:grinno:
 
If you're looking to unload that KAIO in lieu for the Werkstatt, I'd be happy to take it off your hands if you want to cut me a swingin deal :)
 
Don25 said:
Thanks setec (and others) for your replies. Setec, sorry I had a Brain f^rt, and wasn't comprehending what you were trying to tell me...that Klasse had been superseded by werkstatt products.



So Prime followed by Aj would most likely be the way to go??



also, by your sig, are you into Astronomy? I have 4 telescopes.



Superseded...I think Carlack in Germany updated their products to the new "nano" formulations, and don't sell the old ones anymore (at least under the Carlack name). The Werkstatt products are the Carlack "nano" formulations, but apparently the old ones are still being sold as Klasse. I haven't used up my Klasse yet, but the membership seems to think that Werkstatt is better, except for the issue of the Prime having to set up vs. the WOWO ability of KAIO.



Setec Astronomy is an obscure movie reference...no telescopes for me, but if you want to talk science, I'll listen.



ThrillHo said:
If you're looking to unload that KAIO in lieu for the Werkstatt, I'd be happy to take it off your hands if you want to cut me a swingin deal :)



I think he said he hasn't ordered the KAIO yet.
 
FK1000P works well over KAIO, but then so does most anything.



I'd sure put on something durable..no Souveran or other such stuff.
 
lawrencea said:
Would DG105 go over KAIO without removing the acrylic coating that KAIO leaves behind?



The coating KAIO leaves behind is so minimal that IMO it doesn't matter if a subsequently-applied product removes it or not.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Superseded...I think Carlack in Germany updated their products to the new "nano" formulations, and don't sell the old ones anymore (at least under the Carlack name). The Werkstatt products are the Carlack "nano" formulations, but apparently the old ones are still being sold as Klasse. I haven't used up my Klasse yet, but the membership seems to think that Werkstatt is better, except for the issue of the Prime having to set up vs. the WOWO ability of KAIO.



Setec Astronomy is an obscure movie reference...no telescopes for me, but if you want to talk science, I'll listen.







I think he said he hasn't ordered the KAIO yet.



No guy's, I never ordered the Klasse. I'm going to order the Prime and the Acrylic jet (or maybe the trigger jet), as per setec's recommendations.



I had the "der Shiney Stuff" from way back in 2003 or so, and I was looking for a replacement, as I really liked "der shiney stuff".



By the way, somebody had posted about washing a car too often is a leading cause of swirls....could someone elaborate what causes the swirls, even if you use a strictly back and forth motion??
 
Don25 said:
By the way, somebody had posted about washing a car too often is a leading cause of swirls....could someone elaborate what causes the swirls, even if you use a strictly back and forth motion??



It's not the frequency in-and-of itself, although the more often you wash the more potential opportunities for marring. Every time you wash you risk marring, but the risk also increases as the vehicle gets dirtier.



I'd wash when it needs it, whatever "when it needs it" means to you.



Wash-induced marring comes from pressing something hard (e.g., dirt) against the paint and the moving that hard stuff while it's under pressure.



It's not the direction, it's abrasive dirt cutting into the paint just like a knife would cut a piece of wood. Straight scratches are just a bit less noticeable than circular ones because of the more limited viewing angle (there's one viewing angle that'll make a scratch look its worst and with a circular scratch you get all 360 degrees of viewing angle so you're gonna get that one "worst angle" no matter what).



Lots of ways to lessen the chance/severity of marring. A good start is to *never* move the wash media in long, sweeping motions and *never* apply any significant pressure to said media. Use short, interrupted "jiggling" motions instead and just barely whisk the mitt/etc. across the panel with minimal pressure. If using a mitt, fill it with wash solution and let the solution seep out to provide some extra lubrication and flushing. Never keep moving a dirty mitt across the paint, rinse it out.



I dunno...I simply *must* use a foamgun (and the right techniques) to wash without marring, but that's just me. [insert usual dislodge-and-flush foamgun lecture here..]



Give some thought to this; what the causes are, what types of marring are more obvious than others, how to minimize both the frequency and severity of it. It's not quite as simple as one might think and it might not be something everybody figures out with only an hour or two of consideration.
 
Thanks Accumulator for the advise....makes total sense to me.



Just yesterday, my Parents stopped by to say hello to our Daughters. My Dad walked up to the car, and said "oh, I can see you waxed her", and rubbed his hand on the dry car's trunk spoiler.......I cringed, but knowing how my Dad is, decided keeping my mouth shut was the smartest move.



Trying to tell people that just brushing your hand on the paint can scratch it, is a lesson in futility...It drives me INSANE when people have to be "touchy-feely" and rub everything.
 
Don25 said:
.. Just yesterday, my Parents stopped by to say hello to our Daughters. My Dad walked up to the car, and said "oh, I can see you waxed her", and rubbed his hand on the dry car's trunk spoiler.......I cringed, but knowing how my Dad is, decided keeping my mouth shut was the smartest move.



Trying to tell people that just brushing your hand on the paint can scratch it, is a lesson in futility...



Actually, I've had near total success educating people about stuff like this. Even the little kids in my wife's family know how to behave around our vehicles. It's kinda cute to hear stuff like "my other uncle has a car sorta like this...but we're allowed to *touch* his..."



My father was easy, I used the marring on his Audi as an example of why you don't touch it- handed him the Cyclo and let him do his own correction on a few RIDS; he spent a *LONG* time fixing those and started being more careful (and he also gained a better appreciation for the correction I did for him).
 
wfedwar said:
I'd just get DG 501. Good cleaner and the same protection/look as 105.



I used 501 on my wifes mini-van a couple of weeks ago. I clayed , Megs Ultimate compound on some scratches on the hood, and swirl x on the rest.The van came out great.
 
lawrencea said:
I used 501 on my wifes mini-van a couple of weeks ago. I clayed , Megs Ultimate compound on some scratches on the hood, and swirl x on the rest.The van came out great.



I can't start to imagine why you wasted all that time on a mini-van :think: I sure hope she appreciated it, and showed her appreciation several times!
 
I find accumulators technique near impossible, light touch with a chennile mit? I would have to go back and spray bug/tar remover over the whole car if I did that. I think the technique may be good for darker colors but IME not white, white is a different animal where you sacrifice some marring in order to avoid claying at every wash.



Anyone agree or am I off base?
 
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