Wetsanding Challenge

Z

ZaneO

New member
I think I'll be tackling my first wetsanding task on Monday. It's going to be very light wetsanding because the only way I'm able to compound/polish it out is via PC.



What compound and/or polish do you guys think would be best to remove the sanding marks using the PC?



I was thinking 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound (because it should be available locally). I also have SSR 2.5, Menzerna IP, 1ZPP, and Pinnacle Advanced as far as heavier polishes go.
 
Pinn advanced is the most aggresssive that i see there frm my exp. but i haven't tried 1zpp. at long at you take your time(this will be a long one) I think you'll have NP.
 
as long as you finish up with 3000 grit, you should be able to tackle the sanding marks easily. I'd try out 2.5 first on a cutting pad and see if that can remove the marks. If not, bump up the compound and the polish out the hazing as you would normally.



what kinda defects are you trying to remove by wetsanding?
 
I believe the car was repainted, but the body shop never sanded and polished the car out. It's just dull orange peel.
 
I'd try a small spot to see if it comes out with a PC. You might want to try a rotary, it's much easier. If your willing to wet sand, a rotary is a snap.
 
I am going to buff a fender first to see how it comes out before I resort to wetsanding, but I don't own a rotary, so the PC is the only option I've got right now.
 
What grit sandpaper are you using? I was able to remove up to 2000 grit marks with SSR2.5 and a yellow LC pad. I've polished out 3000 grit marks with opt compound, ssr2.5, sonus sfx-2, and menzena IP (all using an orange LC pad) really easily. If you can find 3000 unigrit it'll make your life a lot easier. 2000 can be done with SSR2.5 it just takes awhile.



Oh, and use a block if at all possible. It keeps the sand marks much more even. I didn't use one the first few times I wetsanded and it really does help.
 
Picus makes a very good point – 3000 (if available) is ideal. Definitely use a sanding block for even pressure and consistent cut. Follow up with SSR2.5 and a Sonus SFX1 (or Orange) pad. Be sure to have good lighting and use a water/isopropyl mix.



Good luck :grinno:
 
It is very likely the orange peel will not come out with polishing alone. Most body shops sand with 1500 or then 2500 after painting (of course the don't always do a very good job on the buffing aspect of things either).



Since you will be using a PC (obviously a rotary would be easier), I would go with the unigrit 3000 as others have recommended. Anything stronger and you'll be there for two days with a DA.



I would go with PowerGloss. It dusts a lot but it is better than all the other mentioned polishes because it uses smaller abrasives (that break down better), in a higher quantity. Actually try and compare PG, SSR 3, or any other compound with a cut around 8 for your first step, and you will see for yourself. Other compounds (SSR 2.5 included) use much larger abrasives (actually designed for a rotary) that gash and gouge the paint with a DA once the pad changes direction (you can see these gashes when working under strong halogen lights).
 
Echoing what the others have said, the PC polishing won't remove the OP.



I *strongly* encourage you to follow the advice given and to get the Meguiar's Unigrit 3000. It polishes out *MUCH* better and easier than "regular" (non-unigrit) paper like the stuff from 3M.



2,500 grit is also usually OK unless you have super-hard paint, and even 2,000 is doable by hand/PC, not easy though. But that's with the Unigrit ;) It leaves much more uniform scratches with none of the random deep ones you get with other papers. If you get a nasty one of those, you won't be able to fix it with the PC (at least not in a reasonable amount of time, say, a few hours).



I use 3M PI-III RC (05933) so the PI-II FCRC should work OK. Again, that's by hand/PC and it even worked on (hard) Spies-Hecker clear that'd been wetsanded with Unigrit.



I soak the unigrit in a high-lubricity shampoo. You do *not* need much cut, the emphasis should be on mitigating the abrasion as best you can.



And please be careful and check your work after every stroke. This sort of thing always gives me the willies but since you're who you are (compliment ;) ) I'm not gonna assume/predict the worst and/or try to talk you out of it. Just go easy and remember it's one of those irrevocable decision situations.
 
I appreciate the feedback and advice. :)



I picked up some 3M 06062 today, but I have not been able to find acceptable paper yet, so the job may have to be rescheduled.



I do plan on being *very* careful and only as aggressive as necessary. I really do want to go light on it. I've already stressed the danger/sacrifice to the customer and told him that it may not be something I can do to his satisfaction. I'm going to do a very small area to begin with and let him determine if he wants me to continue.



P.S. My bumper cover is about to be refinished, so I'll be practicing as much as possible before the job.
 
Wetsanding scares me too, but much less so on a repaint that hasn't been sanded before - you should have plenty of clear to work with. If you've ever watched a body shop sand after it's been painted...they usually get pretty aggressive and sand with heavier paper than you will be sanding with (and usually shortly after it's been painted while the paint is still much softer).



Now sanding OP out of factory jobbers...that's another story where you have to excersice more caution.
 
Well, I just spoke with the car's owner and have good news (for me). He has a body shop friend who is going to do the wetsanding, and later this week I'm going to polish the car out.



I'm much more comfortable with that idea. I need to put in some good practice first so I don't bite off more than I can chew :)



Thanks once again fellas.
 
ZaneO- Yeah, that sounds like good news for you. Now if the shop will just do a nice job so your polishing goes easily...
 
I've never had a problem buffing out 2000 grit wetsanding marks with SSR2.5 and a polishing pad. 2 slow passes and you'd never know it was ever wetsanded.

I didn't find it nearly as scary as it sounds. I used to be scared of trying a DA too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top