Wetsanding and Polishing Headlights to Remove Pits?

[Nopstnz8]

Hey guys so I have a set of headlights that have some pits in them and I would like to remove them. I have seen on some boards where people wet sand the headlight deep enough to remove the pits, then polish the headlight with an orbital or rotary buffer (in my case it would be a Meguiars G110 V2), to bring the headlight back to showroom condition. With my orbital, how well will I be able to polish out the wet sanding marks? I know a rotary would do a better job, and if the orbital isn't good enough, I could get someone to use a rotary on them.



Now after I was to have all this done, I know I will have probably had to wet sand through the OEM coating on the headlight that protects from oxidation. Does anyone know what products can be used to recoat a bare headlight? Would opticoat be good enough? Regardless, I would apply a laminx film, but I've heard it's still possible for the headlight to oxidize if the OEM coating is gone.



Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[imported_DetailDan]

You can remove the sanding marks with an orbital and opti- coat can be used to recoat the headlight. Barry Theal wrote an article on headlight restoration, might want to check it out.

 

[wascallyrabbit]

it would best if you removed the lights from the car if your using the g110. sand to at least 2000 grit or hight then buff out and apply opticoat if using a new coating you'll only need to sand them to 800 grit on so then apply new coating. the griots 3" polisher works great for doing headlights.

 

[New Image]

I have restored plenty of headlights. Depending on the condition of the headlights, I would either start with a wet sand at 1500grit followed by a 2000 grit wet sand, or just start with 2000grit. Then I go over it with a rotary LC orange pad with m105 followed by M205 gray LC pad. Then use some kind of sealant with a UV protection and voila!!

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

I have restored plenty of headlights. Depending on the condition of the headlights, I would either start with a wet sand at 1500grit followed by a 2000 grit wet sand, or just start with 2000grit. Then I go over it with a rotary LC orange pad with m105 followed by M205 gray LC pad. Then use some kind of sealant with a UV protection and voila!!

If he's trying to remove deep pits it might be necessary to start at a lower grit; 800 would probably be a good starting point in that instance.

 

[Nopstnz8]

Thanks guys. Really appreciate it.



So basically I can wetsand as deep as I need to in order to remove the pits, eventually working my way up to 2000 grit, followed by my G110, and finally adding opticoat to seal it off?

 

[Innovative Detailing]

In order to remove these deep chips and gravel nicks you will need to definitely need to start with a much more course grit. I recently did a complete set of C6 lenses that were gravel blasted on the local freeway and they were tore up.......



I started out with 320 grit and worked up, then recoated....



Lens showing gravel damage

Properly taped and prepped

Here is a 50/50 showing the unique pattern that you will see as the OEM UV sacrificial coating is removed

Up close, right side shows UV coating and gravel chips and nicks leveled out, left side still present.

Leveled out and ready for the next step......

Comparison shot..

Breaking it down......

2 more levels of resurfacing up using a wet sanding technique and this was my results....

Lens recoated

 

[lostdaytomorrow]

What did you recoat the lenses with? I think that looks great!

 

[Nopstnz8]

In order to remove these deep chips and gravel nicks you will need to definitely need to start with a much more course grit. I recently did a complete set of C6 lenses that were gravel blasted on the local freeway and they were tore up.......



I started out with 320 grit and worked up, then recoated....



Lens showing gravel damage

Properly taped and prepped

Here is a 50/50 showing the unique pattern that you will see as the OEM UV sacrificial coating is removed

Up close, right side shows UV coating and gravel chips and nicks leveled out, left side still present.

Leveled out and ready for the next step......

Comparison shot..

Breaking it down......

2 more levels of resurfacing up using a wet sanding technique and this was my results....

Lens recoated

Awesome! Thanks dude!

 

[Nopstnz8]

BTW, did you use a rotary or a DA to get those results for the polishing stage after you finished wetsanding?

 

[Brad B]

Tip: Beware of excess heat when polishing. You don't want to crack plastic or glass.

 

[imported_sfds]

If you are looking for consumer size packing Amazon has the complete set (sand papers, cleaning solution, UV coating etc.) from a reputable bulb company for $20.00

Sylvania 38771 Headlight Restoration Kit

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

BTW, did you use a rotary or a DA to get those results for the polishing stage after you finished wetsanding?

Depending on what was used to recoat those lenses, he may not have polished them at all after sanding. Remember that a lot of coatings require mechanical adhesion.

 

[Innovative Detailing]

What did you recoat the lenses with? I think that looks great!

Thank you, I recoated these with a wipe on 2 part system that is heat cured for the flat OEM look that you see in the photos.

Awesome! Thanks dude!

Thanks your very welcome.

BTW, did you use a rotary or a DA to get those results for the polishing stage after you finished wetsanding?

No polishing was done on this lens whatsoever.....The were completley resurfaced and recoated with a UV coating for long term stability and protection from the elements.

Depending on what was used to recoat those lenses, he may not have polished them at all after sanding. Remember that a lot of coatings require mechanical adhesion.

Since these were recoated, adhesion is extremely important as you mention, therefore no polishing was done at all so that the polycarbonate has some "Bite"



Using an interface pad is "Very" important for performing this type of service. It allows you to contour your resurfacing steps to the exact shape of the lens without distorting the surface. Be sure to work in a manner in which you do not sit with the D/A for too long in one spot to avoid heating and warping of the polycarbonate lens.

 

[Innovative Detailing]

What did you recoat the lenses with? I think that looks great!

Thank you, I recoated these with a wipe on 2 part system that is heat cured for the flat OEM look that you see in the photos.

Awesome! Thanks dude!

Thanks your very welcome.

BTW, did you use a rotary or a DA to get those results for the polishing stage after you finished wetsanding?

No polishing was done on this lens whatsoever.....The were completley resurfaced and recoated with a UV coating for long term stability and protection from the elements.

Depending on what was used to recoat those lenses, he may not have polished them at all after sanding. Remember that a lot of coatings require mechanical adhesion.

That is correct.......+1

 

[Nopstnz8]

Wait so let me get this straight... You went directly from wetsanding, like 2000 grit, straight to the coating? If I was to use an orbital to polish the headlight then apply the coating, will it not adhere as well?

 

[imported_DetailDan]

Might want to read the write up by Barry as I suggested.

 

[Legacy]

Wait so let me get this straight... You went directly from wetsanding, like 2000 grit, straight to the coating? If I was to use an orbital to polish the headlight then apply the coating, will it not adhere as well?

You got it!

 

[wascallyrabbit]

yep. some people will say that the scrastch pattern of 2000 grit is to fine for coating to adhere to. while sanding after each step stop and clean the lens it'll become clear when its wet. the coating will have the same effect but it'll stay that way.

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Wait so let me get this straight... You went directly from wetsanding, like 2000 grit, straight to the coating? If I was to use an orbital to polish the headlight then apply the coating, will it not adhere as well?

When applying paint or a UV coating it is important to leave give the surface some "tooth" for the coating to bond with -- aka mechanical adhesion. In the case of some coatings you may even need to stop sanding at 800-1000 grit and apply the coating at that stage. The coating fills in the scratch pattern on the surface of the lens restoring full optical clarity.



By polishing a lens to full gloss before applying the coating you are not allowing it to properly mechanically adhere, thus increasing the risk of delamination exponentially.