Wetsand finish.

G

Gtasncdetail

New member
Hello from nc.



To make it short i had my car repainted 4 months ago and i decided i wanted to wetsand it to remove the orange peel.



I have done half of the car via

GG

surbuf

105



My question is if the paint seems to look so good with out any swirl marks or sanding scratches is it necesary to give it a second pass with a polishing pad and a polish? Or can i use a finishing pad and polish? And then seal?



I dont mind doing the step with the polishing pad if its going make a big diference at the end.



Sanded to 3k grit



negaguse.jpg






And this is where im at.



a9u2yby4.jpg




Thanks for any help...
 
That shot really isn't showing what we'd need to see to offer advice.... can you take a more direct shot of the halogen light reflected in the paint?



Short answer would be that if you're happy with the finish you've got there's no reason not to seal it; longer answer is that 105/Surbuf usually will leave some hazing behind so you'd probably be well served to do at least one more polishing step with a less aggressive product and a foam polishing pad.
 
Surbuf and 105 will leave micro marring. Finish down with 205 or SF4000. Only you can see the true finish, pictures don't do it..sunlight is your best inspection light.
 
I know what u mean, i had to redo some spots because my lighting sucks... And ok im gonna do as follows



Swirl remover

Yellow softbuf polishing pad

And then

Swirl remover and finishing pad

And finally seal it with

GG one step sealent..



Does it sound good?
 
I know a lot of members get tired of hearing this but this is where a test spot comes in. Dial in your process in one small spot and once you have a winning combination then repeat it over the entire car.I agree with the other posters that you need to select a finishing step.
 
Yeah i know that, i was just wondering if that extra step would make a diference. Im still learning and sometimes its hard for me to recognize what comes next. But yeah i will do that and then ill post more pictutes thanks
 
If there is hazing, it will make a difference. But like Paul said, you will need to do a test spot to see which combo works best on that particular paint. It's not possible for us to just tell you what will work best because we would also have to do a test spot to find that out if you know what I mean. There's no way to tell how hard or soft that paint is from a pic :)
 
hotrod66paul said:
I know a lot of members get tired of hearing this but this is where a test spot comes in. Dial in your process in one small spot and once you have a winning combination then repeat it over the entire car.I agree with the other posters that you need to select a finishing step.
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Yup, and in this case, since it is his vehicle, don't do a thing for a couple of weeks, then "look at it".

May be a real experience as time and evaporation, etc of products make changes.

Grumpy
 
i noticed that after i did the hood. it looked great but then after like a week swirls and little scratches showed up... well i ll let you gus know how it works..
 
Gtasncdetail said:
i noticed that after i did the hood. it looked great but then after like a week swirls and little scratches showed up... well i ll let you gus know how it works..
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I kind of figured that would happen due to the fact you didn't mention doing an IPA wipe down between steps to verify the actual finish left behind.



It's not uncommon to see, across many different forums, that the defects come back after the "lubricants" evaporate or are washed away.



You probably aren't going to get rid of the "little" scratches with the swirl remover. Especially if they're the marks left behind by the Surbuf pads. You could try though. Just be sure to do multiple IPA wipe downs after to check your work. You may have to go back to 105 to remove them.



Good Luck,



Mike
 
Yeah, gotta strip off everything that gets left by the comounds/polishes if you want to see the true condition of the paint. And I wouldn' rely on IPA myself, but rather somthing like TOL/Hi-Temp's PrepWash.



Yeah, gotta do a test-spot to determine what each step needs to be.



Yeah, gotta use appropriate lighting so you can see what's really going on.



And I myself just might try using something that finishes out a bit nicer than M205 if I were going to all the trouble of wetsanding/etc. anyhow.
 
I don't necessarily use IPA all the time, mostly Eraser, but when I do wipe downs I use multiple quality microfibers so as not to spread the oils back on the surface that I just removed them from. I do have PrepWash but I find that it leaves some smearing on the paint that I end up following with something to clean that up. Just my observation though.





"And I myself just might try using something that finishes out a bit nicer than M205 if I were going to all the trouble of wetsanding/etc. anyhow"



Well said! With finishing polishes out like HD Polish and Sonax Perfect Finish, 205 just sits on my shelf. Also those polishes clean up really easy.



Accumulator...not doubting you just offering my opinion. :wavey
 
mikemurphy234 said:
Well said! With finishing polishes out like HD Polish and Sonax Perfect Finish, 205 just sits on my shelf. Also those polishes clean up really easy.
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Agreed; I don't even remember the last time I used 205, though I still recommend it as being better than nothing for folks who want to pick something up locally.
 
yes at first i was just wiping the compound with a microfiber but then i noticed that the swirls kept coming back, now i use 50/50 water alcohol after each step.. i was working on it the whole afternoon and i think i got the best results with the following process



105 on surbuf

105 on softbuf yellow polishing pad

swirl remover on lc black finishing pad...



but now that you guys mention the hd polish and sonax i might just order one of them and use that instead of the swirl remover...



btw it is tricky getting rid of all the sandmarks so i second that proper lighting is necesary.



thanks everyone..
 
mikemurphy234 said:
"And I myself just might try using something that finishes out a bit nicer than M205 if I were going to all the trouble of wetsanding/etc. anyhow"



Well said! With finishing polishes out like HD Polish and Sonax Perfect Finish, 205 just sits on my shelf. Also those polishes clean up really easy.



Accumulator...not doubting you just offering my opinion. :wavey
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205 on a mf finishing pad does very well on softer paints, not talking about finishing but cutting. Also use the same combo on harder paints as a middle step after 101/surbuf.. It might take a few times to get all of that mess out, but it leaves minimal marring that comes out with ease using hd polish..
 
mikemurphy234 said:
.. I do have PrepWash but I find that it leaves some smearing on the paint that I end up following with something to clean that up. Just my observation though....Accumulator...not doubting you just offering my opinion. :wavey
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No argument here! I end up doing a little DI-water rinsing after I'm sure I've finished polishing, just to remove whatever that PrepWash residue is. While the instructions say to just ipe it off, like you I've found that it often leaves something kinda smeary behind. So if you have something you like better than PrepWash (e.g., Eraser) that can serve as the replacement for IPA, well...sure, use what works best for you :xyxthumbs
 
can you guys recomend a polish that finishes nicer then 205 but one that i can get at autogeek. im currently placing an order but i couldnt find any of the ones mentioned above.
 
Accumulator said:
No argument here! I end up doing a little DI-water rinsing after I'm sure I've finished polishing, just to remove whatever that PrepWash residue is. While the instructions say to just ipe it off, like you I've found that it often leaves something kinda smeary behind.
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Good to know it's not just me. I do like it for removing lsp's though. I ended up getting it years ago to remove Zaino because Sals recommendation to wash with Dawn did nothing and neither did IPA.
 
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