Wet Sanding - 3M or 1Z afterwards?

JasonD

JasonD

New member
I'm getting ready to repair a couple chips and nicks in my paint, and read the how-to article on BetterCarCare.com and he recommends using 3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound and 3M Perfect It Swirl Remover as a follow up from the wet sanding. Is this necessary or will my 1Z UPP and PP be sufficient?
 
Your 1Z stuff will work *at least* as well as those 3M products. You might, however, want to remove the wax that the 1Z Ultra leaves behind (you can use rubbing alcohol)- just to check for any left-over marring. The wax in the PP will make up for whatever you've removed.
 
Okay, so if I am understanding this correctly, you are saying to stick with the 1Z products? I was thinking this but got confused when I was reading the instructions in the how-to article and he recommended the 3M products.
 
OOPS...I forgot about the waxes in 1Z polishes. I think I'd use 3M on it afterall for this reason. Sorry about that, I should've thought of it right away :doh



But if you're planning to wax the repaired areas right away anyhow (I've heard that some people do), then it wouldn't make much difference. I myself always want *any* new paint to cure for a long time before I wax or seal it.
 
Oh no, the repair was done a couple of months ago and I've already waxed it twice so I'm going to stick with the 1Z since I already have it and see how it goes. By the way, I posted almost the same question on the 1Z forum if you want to take a look. Thank you very much for the input.
 
Heh heh, I keep missing the boat on this question, always checking the wrong forum first :D See my response in the 1Z forum.



I'm still curious about the wax/touch up question, though.



On some other thread, I mentioned some RCs from 3M that're supposed to work by hand/PC. PI-III extra cut (05936) and even their Super Duty RC :scared (05954) if you're feeling lucky :) Haven't tried them though....
 
Well, I went out today and bough some product. I bought 3M wet/dry paper 2000 grit (finest they had), rubber 3M sanding block, Meguiar's Scratch-X (just to have), 3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound, and 3M Swirl Remover for Dark Colors. I think I am going to try the 1Z UPP first, and if that doesn't give me the results I am looking for I will move over to the 3M RC, and then follow up with SMR regardless and then 1Z MP last to bring out the final shine.



I only got the Scratch-X because I have a truck coming in this week that has some light scratches on the side of the bed, and I've been hearing some good things about this stuff so I'll give it a whirl. How do you guys usually apply Scratch-X? Terry applicator or foam? By hand or PC?
 
Hi



I use to wet sand cars quite often. My customers have deep swirled cars due to roll over car wash.



I follow the 3M line and the work perfectly. I normally use a 3M orbital grinder with 3000 grit sand paper. This finish is better and quicker by far than using 2000 grit by hand.



If you are not going to sand many cars, 2000 grit is OK. Be careful as 2000 is very aggressive. Use a lot of lubricant (water+soap) and do it very soft.



Work first a small part and check out what happen.



After that 3M line is perfect. The rubbing compound will remove the haze left by the sand paper. If you do it well, only with the 3M fast rubbing compound the result is amazing. For more perfecttion and reflexivity use the 3M Swirl remover. Top it with your favorite carnauba or sealant.
 
Aqua does a *lot* of wetsanding...heed his warning about the 2k grit being aggressive. He and I are on opposite sides of the fence about the 3M SMR though; it's one of the few 3M products I don't like. No biggie, though, as you have 1Z stuff on hand.
 
Hi



Sometimes I feel myself as a clear coat butcher when wet sanding. I have to say that I prefer using low aggresive procedures, looking for smoth perfection, but unfortunately my customers arrive with neglected cars and high expectations. They want value for their money.



I only wet sand or compoung if absolutely necessary.



Regarding fillers in 3M swirl remover, yes they are included but it also have a polishing efect. I had the same doubt than you, but last time I did a 30 years old "tiburon" vintage (with no clear coat) I saw its black paint on my white polishing pad when using 3M SMR.



So 100% sure 3M SMR has polishing efect.



You may see a picture to prove it in a thread called:



30 years old citroen shark.....



You may see in the picture, I used 3M rubbing compound on yellow pad and 3M SMR on white one.







http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=37649
 
JDookie said:
Is the reason you don't like the SMR because it's just a filler/glaze?
Click to expand...



That's part of it. I have other products I like better. I sorta prefer my fillers/glazes to be nonabrasive and my abrasives to be filler-free (though I like the 1Z stuff).
 
Besides, why cover up with a filler or glaze when you could *remove* the defect unless your paint is extemely fragile or polished thin over the years?
 
Bill D said:
Besides, why cover up with a filler or glaze when you could *remove* the defect unless your paint is extemely fragile or polished thin over the years?
Click to expand...



Yeah, though that "fragile/thin" bit is here-and-now on the Jaguar! I really have to just live with its defects.



Ya know, just thinking out loud..I really don't mind just covering up the defects to the extent that 1Z's polishes do it. With a good sealant/wax/whatever over top, things look nice for a *very* long time. It's somehow different from using SMR/IHG/Meg's #7 with a wax topper....Gee, I can argue this one from both sides, sounds like I oughta check my premises :o
 
I suppose the remove defects rationale is a purist's view point that can't always be realistically fulfilled. I think the ingredients in the 1z polishes create a nice compromise for those who want defects to be removed as much as they can, but don't mind a filler to cover the rest as long as they last long, as opposed to say, the traditional smrs and glazes.
 
Yeah, and I'm also just reviewing the whole "attainable/maintainable perfection" thing. All that time/effort on the S8 and then the deer incident...looking back, I went through a lot to have a (virtually) perfect car for a couple of years. And before that, had I not been so insistent on keeping my C5 perfect, I probably would've got a lot more out of the ownership experience. Accumulatorette's A8 is *FAR* from perfect (I really oughta do something...), but she loves driving it all the time and she still gets lots of compliments on it.



[Accumulator notes that thread is veering totally off-topic :o ]
 
yep, gotta remember our perfectionistic standards are mostly undreamed of by the public at large ;) :D ( ok, no more off topic for me either )
 
Yes, you guys swayed off topic a little bit :p , but that's okay because I fully agree with what you are saying. I guess this thread is kind of merging with my "SMR Placement with mock scenario" thread. In my mock scenario I was trying to imagine that the "perfection" saught after just wasn't achievable and SMR or glaze just HAD to be used. I am agreeing with you guys' point of view with the fact that "perfection" is in the eye of the beholder and sometimes you just have to know when to quit and just sit back and enjoy your car.
 
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