weird residue with AIO

S

serrow

New member
So i have been hearing a lot of people struggling with SG and the haze it can leave from time to time. have any of you experienced the same using AIO? I washed, clayed and aio the other day. then had a SEVERE downpour. Before the rain, there was no residue, then afterward, sure enough, all over the car there was a film like i never wiped it off?



any idea what it was? I went over the car pretty well. no QD final wipe tho.
 
never had that happen to me before. I always use a topper over it for protection purposes. maybe that played into effect??? I dont know really.
 
Most sealants should not be exposured to wet weather immediately after application. This moisture hinders initial crosslinking. This may have been the cause of your hazing. Un-crosslinked AIO sitting on surface.
 
I can think of a few things here.



(1) It may be that all of the AOI was not removed at wipe-off time. Paint looked streak free, but might not have been. Sometimes it helps to use EO W&S (a) the get AIO on very thin per CMA (b) to remove any possible streaking, even if you think there is none.



(2) Did you shake the AIO really well before and during application?



(3) at wipe-off, did you change MF's frequently. I have observed that AIO is much easier to remove with a fresh clean MF surface.



Hope this helps. Don't give up on AIO or SG either. Like everything else, there is a learning curve. Do the learning and wear sunglasses - the shine can blind you!



BTW, I have had AIO alone get wet but have never seen the situation you describe.
 
Isn't this just the Bill North/Accumlator/Bill D breathing on the surface to see the AIO/SG, amplified? When I wasn't sure I was putting any on, I breathed on the surface (like you would do with your glasses) and could see the "whisper" that I had applied.
 
Setec,

I'm a lazy kind of "anal" :D , not the 100%, full blown and raging "anal" of the guys you mention. :shocked
 
Gonzo said:
Setec,

I'm a lazy kind of "anal" :D , not the 100%, full blown and raging "anal" of the guys you mention. :shocked
Click to expand...



Hey!! I'm not getting personal, what I meant isn't the rain on serrow's car like breathing on it. I'm agreeing that maybe he didn't get it all buffed off, and the rain made it appear like it does when you breathe on it.
 
Heh heh heh..."full blown and raging"....heh heh heh . Probably sums up pretty much every area of endeavor in my life :D



Regarding the AIO residue and water, IMO the matter of degree is what counts. A little moisture from your breath is different from a torrential downpour and there's a wide range in between.



I'm with Gonzo, I think there was a little AIO left on the surface, not enough to *normally* matter, but enough that it did matter when the rain factored in. No biggie, IMO, just work at more complete removal next time.
 
I've seen a haze on my car after QDing it. If we get a humid (foggy) night then the fog will condense on my car and reveal a streaky haze on it. I can wipe it off again with a fresh MF, but it will come right back. Once the car gets washed normally, the haze is gone.
 
thanks for all your replies... as far as how much rain? well we are on the 3rd day of cancelled classes at the University of Hawaii. How fun! Too bad i am not a student, but staff.



I own a new Odyssey and the darn thing is HUGE. I'll be buying a PC to make the whole process a little less difficult, and maybe that will ensure a better wipe off. Oh yeah, i forgot to mention... the wife was the one holding the MFs and wiping off. bless her soul!



Mahalo
 
Living in Alabama, when isn't it raining? My first time using the Klasse twins and after SG, I noticed what you have described. I confirmed it again later on my second and then third applications of SG. Supposedly due to the moisture I get a hazing left on various places that I know were completely wiped and buffed. If I washed the vehicle the hazing wouldn't return. Something to think about when using SG, when it going to rain or like in my case where it's humid all the time, you must expect this and be prepared to deal with it. Doesn't matter if you use the wipe on wipe off method or the more traditional method of letting it sit for at least 30 minutes up to overnight you still get hazing. I thought at the time I was putting it on to thick or doing something wrong, since most people were not having this problem, but have since learned it's due to the humidity. I will say this, it's been over three months since my SGX3 with a LSP of Pinnacle every 3 or 4 weeks and the car still looks great, slick finish and good beading.:bounce
 
The rain is what caused your problem with AIO. Sealants should be allowed to cure in dry conditions for at least 24 hours.



I've seen this phenomenon with SG when using the wet and dry towel technique to remove it. This is why I started using WOO instead of WDT (Wet and Dry Towel).



This also proves further that layering klasse back to back to back, as has been recommended by some members, is a big mistake. The product must cure in order to really layer it.
 
Bill, I only let SG set for about 20 minutes between apps, usually three, and I have never,ever have had a problem of any kind with the product. Each and every time the results have been astounding and the results extremely long lived.



I don't know what caused the problem with this member but rain water would not be high on my suspect list, unless the car was not washed before additional work began. I also am leaning towards imcomplete removal of the product.
 
I have had problems with streaks after heavy downpours with AIO and EX-P. The problem does not seem to appear when I leave it on for 30 minutes or more.
 
RJJ, I've tried your application method for SG and did not find the results to be as good as the wait one week method I currently employ. Durability and looks were not as good.



It does not surprise me that you are happy with the technique you use, as even 1 coat of SG looks quite good. The reality is, the lack of cure time you give the product is resulting in only one layer of SG remaining on the surface when it is all said and done.



I do believe that water will inhibit the curing and bonding of the product if it introduced prior to at least the 24 hour mark. We've had more than one chemist on this board verify that. I don't doubt them. You have the right to disagree.



JMO.
 
BillNorth said:
I do believe that water will inhibit the curing and bonding of the product if it introduced prior to at least the 24 hour mark. We've had more than one chemist on this board verify that. I don't doubt them. You have the right to disagree.



JMO.
Click to expand...



Take this fact to the bank. If at all possble allow a vehicle with a true sealant application to cure for 24 hours, longer is actually better between applications (layers), and also allow the vehicle to remain dry at least the first 24 hours if possible. Of course this is not an absolute and many conditions and technique variations will yield excellent results without perceivable changes in outcome from the "ideal" application technique.. :xyxthumbs
 
Bill, as we have said before all that really matters is that we are satisfied with the product.

However, if a 'cure' period, as you and others like to refer to this phenomena, of 24 hours was important I fail to see why Klasse would not mention this on the bottles?

After all, their goal is to make kilos of Euros for the Company and its investors and this can only be accomplished by producing a quality product, which isn't difficult to use and which provides superior results.

These are the virtues which I can attribute to Klasse.



BUT, the President of Klasse USA does state to let the -second-coat of sg to remain on for :8-12: hours before more apps AND that all problems with difficult removal can be traced to not using a micro fiber cloth for final buffing, using too much product, using a dry app and, in accordance to your thoughts, not waiting long enough before removal.



Now the real interesting question becomes, why do so many of us who only wait about a half and hour have such remarkable results?



If as you say I am only realizing a true one coat of SG this is some powerful stuff as I get very close to a full year of real good looks and obvious protection.



Note that both vehicles are garaged at home, one-the daily driver is garaged at work also BUT is used year round, big negative here in the salty Northeast and they get washed an awful lot, including a no touch auto during the winter and heavens knows what is in the water.
 
What Bill is trying to say is that the science behind the effective rate of crosslinking is directly related to the proximity of the crosslinking components. Normally this rate is determined by the carrier (solvents) used that is in most cases are extremely volatile and dissipates quickly initially, but the final or complete dissipation normally requires approximately 24 hrs minimum. Probably a very high percentage of this inert carrier is dissipated within the first few hours leading to a functional state in which another layer can be added. Therefore, it is not surprising that 6-8 hr curing time is still very efficient for excellent final results because even after adding layers on top of a incompletely cured layer of sealant will eventually fully cure. The addition of water to the equation is just adding another inert substance that needs to be dissipated prior to a final curing can occur. Since water (rain) is inert in the crosslinking reaction and causes a further separation of the crosslinking elements, it is of no benefit to the system and may even cease the crosslinking reaction due to extreme dilution and complete lack of proximity of the crosslinking components into a continuous layer. Hence haze after a rainstorm.
 
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