waxing your wheel..

klnyc

klnyc

Deep scratch guy.
Okay,



Do you guys literally yank off each wheel at a time to wax your wheel in and out?

Or you just(like me) wax outside of the rim only?

Im using AIO and some time SG. You guys use any particular brand?
 
I wax/seal the outside of my wheels whenever I wax/seal my paint.

I take the wheels off twice a year to clean/seal the backsides.
 
Thanks guys for the reply.



Dang whatta pain in the arse. I guess I would have take to off my tire this weekend. I dont think I ever clay/polish/seal/wax inner side before :sosad
 
Dont forget the inside of the wheel has a far harder life than the outside. Taking the wheels off also allows deep cleaning of the wheel well and a chance to safety check brakes and suspension items
 
I do the backside of my rims twice a year also, but not on a typical 'detail day'.



I've got a set of summer tire/wheels and a set of winter tire/wheels. When I am changine from summer to winter, I will completely detail (wash, AIO+SG) the summer wheels (now that they are off of the car), before I put them into storage.



Then, when I change from winter to summer, I apply another coat of SG to the summer wheels before putting them on, and I do the detail on the winter wheels that just came off.



Working like this, it doesn't really take that long to detail the wheels. It's just about the same time as is required to get out the jack, jack the car, change 4 wheels, drop the car, torque the lugs, etc.
 
Wax melt due the heat? Whereas SG with stand heat and last longer than wax of course :cool:
 
dengsxr said:
Can anyone explain the difference or the advantages of using wheel wax over something like a sealant on the rims?
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Melting points- Polymer melts at 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Carnauba Wax 180oF and evaporates / erodes over time (dependant upon ambient temperatures and climatic conditions) Beeâ€â„¢s wax is often mixed with Carnauba wax, which has an even lower melting point (130oF), which further limits its durability. In actual practice higher temperatures frequently leads to melting of the wax compounds.



For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195 degrees or more

JonM



FWIW- there is a product that is called wheel wax that is actually a polymer
 
dengsxr said:
Can anyone explain the difference or the advantages of using wheel wax over something like a sealant on the rims?
Click to expand...
A sealant will work just fine, too; however, I believe some of the dedicated wheel waxes have some cleaners in them (chemical and/or light abrasive) to deal with road grime and brake dust.



Don't laugh, but I often use NuFinish on wheels . . . it has good cleaning properties, and it seems to last quite a while, too. It's not something I'd personally care to use on my body paint, but for the occasional wheel clean-up, it seems to work well. It's also rather inexpensive, and readily available.



Tort
 
I wash and wax the rims every time I rotate (5K miles) which is about 3-4 times a year for me.



I just read about Wheel Wax in the latest ProperAutoCare newsletter. Wheel Wax is not just wax, it is a polymer/wax blend with cleaners. Not sure how that affects its susceptibility to heat but, just thought I would throw that out there.



http://www.wheelwax.com/



I have been using Meguiars PPC and PPP on my rims for some time and it has served me well. I am thinking about trying the Klasse twins this time around.
 
Great thanks for the replies folks I should have thought about melting points. :rolleyes:

Anyways I will probably use my Black fire PP for the time being and see if I eventually need a product like wheel wax in my aresonal.
 
i use wheelwax, and find it more effective in preventing brake dust buildup than klasse. But i'm sure it doesn't provide the same level of "sunscreen" protection as klasse. I have yet to try klasse first, then put wheelwax over it.
 
klnyc said:
Does gun metal powder coat have clear coat??

Cuz, thats what I have now.
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Uncoated? (to test apply a mild polish, if the applicator turns black there is no clear coat or paint finish)

JonM
 
The wheels I've done with black powdercoat did *not* have any type of clear over them. I just used the usual- AIO + SG x many.



I've used BF and UPP also, but it doesn't seem to hold up as well/long as the multiple applications of SG. IMO this is especially important for the back sides, which won't get as much direct attention as often as the fronts will. The BF and UPP look better though (just IMO ;) ).



Once you get them all cleaned and sealed, use carwash shampoo instead of wheel cleaner. Not as hard on the sealant but still plenty strong enough if you clean them regularly.
 
dengsxr said:
Great thanks for the replies folks I should have thought about melting points.
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I think the wheels getting hot from braking heat is overblown. I don't ever remember having a wheel too hot to touch, but I sure do remember burning myself on parts of the upper surface of the car heated by the sun. Of course, I'm an old guy now and I don't heat up my brakes like I used to :o .
 
klnyc said:
Mild polish such like #83,SSR3?
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Thos3 aren't that mild but will do .. even AIO or any cleaner wax will show black if the wheel isn't cleared. Same with Never Dull etc.
 
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