Waxing By Rotary...

If you use pads that are too agressive, too much rotarty speed, or you do not move the rotary quickly enough across the panels, sure you could create holograms.



I assume that you could apply wax with the rotary, but you have to use a super soft non-cutting pad and the slowest speed on the rotary. I have never applied a wax by rotarty, so the above is just a common sense approach that I would take.
 
i have no experience on rotary and i am thinking of trying to wax or to apply a glaze to my car with it for practice(just not to remove the CC by polishing it )
 
pampos said:
i have no experience on rotary and i am thinking of trying to wax or to apply a glaze to my car with it for practice(just not to remove the CC by polishing it )
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I would think with a decent pad, a low speed and keeping it moving and you should be fine - won't really give you much practice for the real deal though.

But here again, begin slow 'n careful, keep the speeds down and the machine moving till you get the hang off it.

Grain of salt disclaimer: all stuff I've read, not stuff I've done.
 
pampos, when teaching myself to use the rotary I took a similar, though not quite such a conservative approach. If you use common sense, a product with little to no cut, use low PRM's, and use a finishing pad (or softer) there isn't too much to be scared of. Not to mention, if you do induce some marring or holograms, you can always clean things up with the random orbit (assuming you already own one)



Rather than using a wax, I got acquainted with the rotary by using a white LC pad with Poli-seal or VMHG. Anything with low or no cut and a good working time will be a good choice. Once I felt comfortable, I moved up to Menz FF2 and so on in steps. This way you learn to control the machine, how much product to use/not splatter, and you should be able to rectify any problems you encounter with the slightly less aggressive approaches in which you've already become proficient.
 
etml12 said:
pampos, when teaching myself to use the rotary I took a similar, though not quite such a conservative approach. If you use common sense, a product with little to no cut, use low PRM's, and use a finishing pad (or softer) there isn't too much to be scared of. Not to mention, if you do induce some marring or holograms, you can always clean things up with the random orbit (assuming you already own one)



Rather than using a wax, I got acquainted with the rotary by using a white LC pad with Poli-seal or VMHG. Anything with low or no cut and a good working time will be a good choice. Once I felt comfortable, I moved up to Menz FF2 and so on in steps. This way you learn to control the machine, how much product to use/not splatter, and you should be able to rectify any problems you encounter with the slightly less aggressive approaches in which you've already become proficient.
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this is what i thought....Are the pads for DA OK for rotary??
 
^^Should be, as long as they aren't worn out with the hook and loop backing coming undone. Also, take care to center them as much as possible to avoid eccentricities.
 
Pampoos. Get a scrap piece of body panel from a junk yard and practice on it. If you burn the paint on that scrap piece of panel, so what? That would serve as a good learning experience. I would suggest purposely burning the panel just to get an idea of what extreme you can go to.
 
bert31 said:
Pampoos. Get a scrap piece of body panel from a junk yard and practice on it. If you burn the paint on that scrap piece of panel, so what? That would serve as a good learning experience. I would suggest purposely burning the panel just to get an idea of what extreme you can go to.
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i know what extreme i can do thats why i am avoiding to use it :D.but it is time to learn i guess...
 
pampos said:
i know what extreme i can do thats why i am avoiding to use it :D.but it is time to learn i guess...
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Once you spend some time practicing on a scrap panel you will be amazed how much confidence you will build. Last weekend was the first time I had ever polished with a rotary. The only accident I had was I was trying to use a 6.5 inch Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool pad in a tight area and the pad started hopping and lightly scuffed the side of my spoiler. I was able to fix this with a tiny tab of touch up paint, 2500 wet sanding paper, and go over again with Menzerna SIP. If someone didn't know it was there, they would never notice it.



Had I not been a dope and switched to my 3.5 inch Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool Pad, I would have had better control over the pad and not scuffed the spoiler. Oh well, it was a learning experience.
 
I've done it without any holograms. Use a non abrasive pad, low speed and keep the rotary moving and you should be fine.
 
I worked with a kid years ago that used to say "I think I get more dirt off when I wax than when I wash my car." Imagine if he used a rotary!



Nobody knew about detail clay in those days - perhaps it wasn't even used back then and lets face it, there can be contaminants that don't wash off. I was surprized recently when I did a pay 'n spray, then ONR and still removed grime with clay.



Anyway, if you don't have a really clean suface when you haul out that rotary, it's gonna be a crap shoot as to how well the surface comes out. I use my PC for LSP application, but I don't think I'd use a rotary for that.
 
i just did a honda accord today and used my rotary to remove wax. never applied with it, but damn if it didnt work great to remove and polish. car was that ugly purple and left no holograms or marring. just wish i could figure out how to get all the little spider webs out better on older cars.
 
if you do use a rotary to apply wax either use a solid bar of wax that you can rub on the pad or a really runny wax. dont use those tooth paste consistency waxes they dont spread well with machine.
 
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