Water spots

01somta

New member
I bought a tuck a few weeks ago and I've noticed some severe water spots on the entire truck. I tried washing with distilled white vinegar and it didn't do a thing. So the yesterday I tested a small section with rubbing compound, then polishing compound, and the wax and it took care of the spots. So I've decided to invested in a PC 7424 since it's a f250 crew cab. What would be the best products and pads to use on these water spots? I used turtle wax paste as the rubbing and polishing compound followed by meguiars liquid glass wax on the small section, but I don't want to detail this thing by hand. Any help would be appreciated. Also what would be the best application to use on the windows, they are also covered with hard water spots.

Thanks Dustin
 
Well if they've been there for quite some time, you'll need something abrasive. Good thinking with the PC, that's going to net you much better results.

Take a look at this if you haven't purchased a porter cable yet.

Meguiars Porter Cable XP Ultra Polish Kit with 5.5 Inch Pads

It's got everything you need for your polishing steps. It's just missing an LSP. What I would actually suggest is a synthetic paint sealant. Seems like if this is your daily driver that is subject to environmental wear and tear, a sealant will protect it better than what you might be currently using.
 
I have had good luck removing water spotting with Poorboy's Pro Polish. As long as the are not etched into the paint - at that point I have had some luck wet sanding, and some spotting that could not be removed.
 
If water spots are really heavy you can look at starting with a waterspot remover/ acid wheel cleaner ( Warning, products are very strong chemicals. Make sure to read all instructions and safety concerns). I've used Automagic's spoke wheel cleaner with a bug sponge, you have to be sure after applying and scrubbing to nutralize with a base of some sort since it is a acid. After doing this you can normaly polish the paint out fairly easily. Works well on glass. This is a last resort if heavy compounds and polishes dont work.

Note: Always try the lightest method first the gradualy increase if you dont get the results you want.
 
While it may require you to buy some products that you don't currently have remember to start with something mild and if it don't work step up to something a Little more abrasive.

I would NOT use compound.

Something like PB pro-polish and a polishing pad would be a good starting point because the paint probably needs correction beyond the water spots anyway.
I would start with LC white pad and if that did not get it try the orange pad.
 
While it may require you to buy some products that you don't currently have remember to start with something mild and if it don't work step up to something a Little more abrasive.

I would NOT use compound.

Something like PB pro-polish and a polishing pad would be a good starting point because the paint probably needs correction beyond the water spots anyway.
I would start with LC white pad and if that did not get it try the orange pad.


Please forgive me I am new to the detailing world, so would this be ok

wash
clay
PB pro-polish (LC white pad/orange pad)
PB World EX-P (LC Gray)
Liquid Natty blue (LC Red)
 
Now I'm thinking about a new setup, let me know what you think

Wash
Clay
PB Pro-polish 2
PB Pro-polish
PB Black Hole Show Glaze
PB World EX sealant with carnuba
 
Threre are many car care chemicals available in the market. Choose rightone and apply chemical as suggested on packing by manufacturers. If possible please refer chemical's Material Safety Data Sheet befor buy chemical. Because vehicle paint is very important.

Take your on decision and choose right chemical for your car.
 
for water spots, i rinse off the car first then i would spray wheel acid all over the car, then take your wash met and wash the car with your soap. then rinse it off and dry the car. If there still there the best method to get rid of them is using compound and wool pad. (make sure you dont let the acid dry on the car)
 
for water spots, i rinse off the car first then i would spray wheel acid all over the car, then take your wash met and wash the car with your soap. then rinse it off and dry the car. If there still there the best method to get rid of them is using compound and wool pad. (make sure you dont let the acid dry on the car)

Let me ask you a question. Have you done this on any car? Its a very risky process to suggest to just anyone, much less to do it at all. There certainly are a lot more non-abrasive methods to remove WS without using acid based wheel cleaners.
 
yeah i do it all the time. but for first timers i do agree its pretty risky u need to know how long you can let it set on the car for. i failed to mention i only do one side a time.
 
yeah i do it all the time. but for first timers i do agree its pretty risky u need to know how long you can let it set on the car for. i failed to mention i only do one side a time.

OK..IMO when you are posting an answer to a question about detailing. It helps to understand, that the person asking the question, may have little to no experience, hence the reason they are seeking a solution.

In the years that I have in detailing (over 30). Acid based cleaners are dangerous on a lot of the cars surfaces, especially non-coated metals and clear coats. This to me would be a last resort if at all. If your having good results with acid based wheel cleaners, then a suggestion. Post the entire process from start to finish, spelling it out in full. On another forum I post on, guy asked about removing baked on brake dust, someone suggested over cleaner..He used it and it peeled the finish straight off. Case and point;)
 
Some wheel cleaners, especially Chrome Wheel Cleaners, will often use Hydrofluoric Acid for their cleaning ability and it's this product that some detailers will apply to paint to remove some types of water spots. Hydrofluoric Acid, also simply called HF is very dangerous to inhale, ingest or even get on your skin.


From Wikipedia,

Water solutions (hydrofluoric acid) are a contact-poison with the potential for deep, initially painless burns, with later tissue death. By interfering with body calcium metabolism, the concentrated acid may also cause systemic toxicity and eventual cardiac arrest and fatality, after contact with as little as 24.8 square inches of skin.

25 square inches of skin could be like a 5" square section of your leg or on the tops of both your hands.


Professional, experienced detailers, especially detailers that have had some type of training in the field of detailing understand the risks and will take the appropriate precautions.

Some newbie posting for help on a forum might not understand, so anytime you recommend something that's potentially dangerous it's a good idea to quality your recommendations by adding the risks involved.


Me? I want to live! and I want to see forum members live too...


:D
 
i dont even like using wheel cleaner with acid anymore. God, if i used it on paint, i'd blank myself watching it melt. :rofl by the way, Dave i hope you're doing well. i got rid of my Bimmer.
 
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