Water spots on BMW clearcoat...

longms

New member
I have a Carbon Black 2003 M3 Coupe and am in the middle of slowly detailing it and got to the hood and noticed a lot of pitting and water spots everywhere. I am using a PC o speed6, Orange LC pads with SIP. I did about 3 passes for each section and spent about an 40 minutes or so on the hood alone. The SIP does a great job of getting rid of the scratches but these damn water spots don't even budge:hairpull. I have searched around and it looks like Meg 105 might be the next step for something more aggressive.



Do you think that the 105 might actually give me a chance at getting through these spots or am I kind of "SOL" with this PC??
 
longms said:
I have a Carbon Black 2003 M3 Coupe and am in the middle of slowly detailing it and got to the hood and noticed a lot of pitting and water spots everywhere. I am using a PC o speed6, Orange LC pads with SIP. I did about 3 passes for each section and spent about an 40 minutes or so on the hood alone. The SIP does a great job of getting rid of the scratches but these damn water spots don't even budge:hairpull. I have searched around and it looks like Meg 105 might be the next step for something more aggressive.



Do you think that the 105 might actually give me a chance at getting through these spots or am I kind of "SOL" with this PC??



Sounds like deja vu all over again! Had the same problem on a black Hyundai. SIP/orange with a PC and the water spots were still there. I went to Power Gloss compund and yellow and they started fading.... too much work and too much dusting.



4" PFW pads and M105 took 'em right out, usually with 1 pass. Plus it finshed up *almost* LSP-ready. I've since upgraded to a Flex and the PFW/M105 is much easier to abrade those types of challenging waterspots. You loose the option of going to smaller pads with the Flex though.



FWIW, ADS has the new DA-friendly M105 in 12 oz sample sizes.



TL
 
I don't think a PC will permanently remove the water spots. I would recommend to wetsand and repolish. I would wetsand the area, polish with powergloss with a wool pad, followed by SIP with a orange pad, and finish with nanopolish with a PC or cyclo. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, take it to a local professional and I'm sure they could take care of it for you.







John
 
I would like to try M105...would the 105 and an orange 5.5" pad take care of this?



I will invest in some 4" pads. Just trying not to spend too much and already spent around $400 on my previous order.



Thanks guys
 
Like TLMitchell, I used 3.5" PFW and M105 via DA on my white 2005 Subaru. It took out some really bad water stains and water etching that I thought would require wetsanding.



I was REALLY impressed with the way the combo worked and the M105 finished down very nice, almost LSP ready. I used M205 and a finishing pad for the final polishing stage.
 
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