Wash recommendation needed for removing LSP's

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I'm looking for recommendations for a car wash to remove LSP's prior to polishing. I want something that will provide a thorough yet safe cleaning. I currently use a Dawn wash if I'm doing a polish job (Dawn wash, clay, IPA, polish, etc.), but I'm looking for a product specific for auto detailing...not dishwashing!



Everything else I have in my arsenal is designed for protecting LSP's, not removing them. My go-to product for my personal car and a simple wash/wax job is 1Z Perls.



Thanks in advance.
 
P21s TAW, FK1 decon step 1, AutoInt "A", I've used all succesfully, although the P21S was by far the mildest, and the FK1 the strongest(had a fairly strong solvent smell and the MSDS indicates some form of kersone as well as highly caustic salts)
 
Depending on paint hardness, amount of correction and products used, the silicone from certain LSPs can play a major role in making a finish totally clean for perfect buffing. I've had jobs where silicone buildup was so bad that I literally had to wet-sand with solvent to clean the surface for correction.
 
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash n Gloss or Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Clear. They actually have a paint cleansing ratio which is 2 oz per gallon of water and it does extremely well..
 
^^+2 to that. I go even further and mix Dawn and TAW in my foamgun lol. Stripped everything off of a dealership prepped car and made the finish 10xs worse due to the glaze/wax they used -.-"
 
jordanrossbell said:
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash n Gloss or Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Clear. They actually have a paint cleansing ratio which is 2 oz per gallon of water and it does extremely well..
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I used the CW&G and followed up with an IPA wipedown to remove any rinse agent that was left on the car. Someone on this forum told me that the CW&G has a "glossing" agent (IIRC) and to do an IPA wipedown to remove it. And I also used it at 2 oz./gallon ratio on my foam gun.
 
Hey Todd,



Ryan and I have been using Spray Nine for quite a while now. It works great and is very safe on paint. I usually dillute it 50/50 with water.



I suggest washing the car as you normally do, then take a clean microfiber and saturate it and the panel with the cleaner. Scrub down the whole car using the microfiber and rinse as you go. The microfiber really bites into the paint, instead of just gliding across the surface like a sponge will. Works great.



After you are all done and the car is dry, do a quick alcohol wipedown to remove any remaining residue.



You can buy a gallon of it at Home Depot for around $11 or so.



Hope this helps...
 
CG CW Clear at 2oz/gallon with a cap full or 2 of the CG Strong Wash Bug&Tar has worked very well for me so far. It completely stripped cars with Ultima and Zaino LSP on them fairly easily (2x wash). Squeaky clean afterwards.



I've tried the P21S TAW but I felt like I was pouring money down the drain...too much damn $. I'm glad I didn't spring for the 5L cannister. I'd be too protective of it and probably never use it.



I prefer the CG CW Clear over the CW Gloss for prep washing. The glossing agents always had me guessing as to whether the LSP is gone or not.
 
jb1 said:
I used the CW&G and followed up with an IPA wipedown to remove any rinse agent that was left on the car. Someone on this forum told me that the CW&G has a "glossing" agent (IIRC) and to do an IPA wipedown to remove it. And I also used it at 2 oz./gallon ratio on my foam gun.
Click to expand...



try Citrus Wash and Clear...its the same as CW&G, just without the gloss
 
I have tried so many damn things and I am a big nut degreasing cars before being polished. Old embedded silicone is the worst enemy for polishing. Spray Nine works amazing. You will be amazed at how bright the paint comes out.
 
I've never understood why people insist on removing Last Stage Products prior to polishing. The very notion that a microscopic layer (and we are talking microns) can stand up to even the least abrasive polish is absurd.



If a layer of let's say Meguiar's 21 could stand up to Meguiar's 80 or even 82 applied by hand or PC , the paint would not get swiirls in it from regular washing. The idea of layer Last Stage Products is equally absurd. Two coats for full coverage, O.K. Expecting a second layer of Last Stage Product to build on the first is wishful thinking.



It seems that everybody has his or own preferences or beliefs in what works best, but I think many are not rooted in reality or factual at all.
 
I look at it like this....



Almost all waxes, QD's, and some sealants have some sort of silicone content coverage.

Some silicones will interfere with perfect polishing. If one is polishing with a product that has nourishing carrier oils in it then it probably will not matter. But if one is polishing with Menzerna or similar abrasives that actually corrects while using a lubricating carrier, then silicones will interfere and cause what I call, "silicone heat patches". Also, your pad will clog and gum up much faster causing excessive heat and will result in an uneven surface. When heat builds up over old wax lsp's, it actually causes a hydro barrier which will make the pad hop, skip, and a jump. Heat also will drive the old embedded stuff deep into the paint causing swirls and dull spots to come back in the future.



Now take a perfectly clean surface with all lsp's and etc. removed from the paint and you will be able to polish with ease with no hopping and the heat will be a at low minimum allowing you to work the surface perfectly. Pads will stay clean and cool. I love when my Metabo sings in perfect harmony on clean paint.



I think of it this way if one is to not remove lsp's and qd's from paint before polishing... It's like taking all the old stuff on the paint in powder form and putting it in the bottle of polish.



There is always a method behind my madness, but the results have been amazing.

I hope this helps!



Ryan
 
Excellent information Ryan. One should be on the lookout when they start prepping a vehicle full of defects/faded and the water is beading like crazy! Indication that something's on the finish (an invisable barrier) that *could * interfere with correction. I remember reading several threads about how difficult certain silicones are to remove. Scary stuff.
 
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