Velvet pads with Flex 3401?

jrock645

jrock645

New member
I have a 2014 Honda Accord I going to coat with the PBL v2 coating. Before I do that, I'd like to make it look as good as possible. I'm exploring option of trying to remove/lessen the orange peel.

Im looking at the car pro velvet pads, since it's less aggressive than the denim. The description mentions a rotary, but I know some have done this with the PC. I know the 3401 isn't a good option for wet sanding since its tight orbit can cause scalloping. Can it be used with these pads?

If if I were to move forward with this, how many pads would I need? I'm guessing 4?

Also, which compound/polishing product? I currently have Wolfgang uber compound, and total swirl remover. It'd be nice to use what I have but I'm certainly willing to purchase the best option.

i appreciate any help or input.
 
jrock645 said:
I have a 2014 Honda Accord I going to coat with the PBL v2 coating. Before I do that, I'd like to make it look as good as possible. I'm exploring option of trying to remove/lessen the orange peel.

Think twice before removing large amounts of clear coat. Clear is very thin from the factory and is very easy to burn through with aggressive pads like velvet and denim.
Velvet,CarPro Velvet Orange Peel Removal Pad – 5.25 Inches 2 Pack is equivilent to 3000 grit and denim CarPro Denim Orange Peel Removal Pad – 4 Inches 2 Pack is 2000. They remove product rather quickly and though can be used on a DA, best suited for use by a rotary.
I've had excellent results (by rotary) with Denim pads and recommend them. They will take some getting used to and count your passes to check your section after 2-3 passes>
Personally I like to have as much clear on my car as possible for optimal protection and have learned to live with a little orange peel
I would have 5-6 pads on hand, maybe more for a 4 door
no problem using Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0 for your cutting step and finishing with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0

Good luck
Click to expand...
 
Yeah the protection issues a big deal. I very well may just do a nice polish and be done. Just thinking about it, though. Thanks for the help.
 
The thing with removing clearcoat to get it very smooth means you may be seeing defects quicker because the finish is so smooth, and then if you keep taking them out, you will get to that point of no return someday..
Not worth it to me.. Not worth it to me even if I have a tool to measure thickness in microns..
Unless its hugely orange peeled, and I have never seen a Honda car that way, you will be better just getting it really smooth and as clear as possible which is what I do and did to all of my vehicles in the past.

The coating if the prep work is really good, will further enhance smoothness, clarity, and gloss..
Perhaps this is all you really need?
Good luck with your research !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
The thing with removing clearcoat to get it very smooth means you may be seeing defects quicker because the finish is so smooth, and then if you keep taking them out, you will get to that point of no return someday..
Not worth it to me.. Not worth it to me even if I have a tool to measure thickness in microns..
Unless its hugely orange peeled, and I have never seen a Honda car that way, you will be better just getting it really smooth and as clear as possible which is what I do and did to all of my vehicles in the past.

The coating if the prep work is really good, will further enhance smoothness, clarity, and gloss..
Perhaps this is all you really need?
Good luck with your research !
Dan F
Click to expand...


Yeah im thinking just a good polish will do the trick. I already cut and polished a couple months ago. A fine finishing polish with Meg's UP and a white CCS pad, then jewel with WG finishing glaze should do the trick. Do a couple coats of the PBL coating and the car should look pretty outstanding.
 
I just got done using the denim and velvet pads with my Flex DA and PE8 using Menz 400 on my black C7 which came with atrocious orange peel (on the vertical panels.). I knew going in that the factory clear coat is too thin to really get rid of the OP so my plan was to at least reduce it. Probably ended up with 50% less when I was done. Still not thrilled with the paint but its a little more bearable (shame on you GM). Anyways, the GM clear coat is extremely hard and it took a lot of passes to see results using the DA. Things went a little faster with the PE8 in the tighter areas. Car is a garage queen so UV protection etc was not a huge concern for me.
 
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