Using wool pads...

BudgetPlan1

BudgetPlan1

Active member
Haven`t really given wool a go yet...any tips or tricks? Use `em just like microfiber, i.e. prime a bit, blow out with air between sections, fluff `em up occasionally (how, need one of `dem wool pad `spurs`?), etc?

Thanks for any help...
 
a spur is a definate plus, beats a phillips screwdriver. I always prime the pad and rub it around before putting on the paint. I use them on a rotary so I try to not over do it or I have material flying everywhere.

Dave
 
Budgetplan1- Why are you planning to use wool pads? I have them, but haven`t even *considered* using them for over 10 years. Unless you have a specific reason in mind for using them...
 
Curiosity mostly. They seem to be `coming back`? Or at least mentioned more often recently, notably by Rupes and B & S.

Just kinda curious what they may offer over microfiber or foam.

Accumulator said:
Budgetplan1- Why are you planning to use wool pads? I have them, but haven`t even *considered* using them for over 10 years. Unless you have a specific reason in mind for using them...
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For correction on hard clear I`ve used the Lake Country Purple and Blue foamed wool pads on both rotary and 3401. Other than they shed at first they worked great. I primed them and cleaned them with air and/or brush between panels. I have the spur, but never understood how it was supposed to work and just never used the wool pads enough to learn (other methods worked fine).

If I were buying today I`d pick up the Rupes blue wool for serious correction and yellow wool as an option for finer finish.

Sandro uses them a bit in this video. In one test spot I believe he achieved one of the best finish with the yellow wool as opposed to foam.

As I understand it the new wool pads correct great and may not leave a mess behind as wool pads of the past would always do.
 
Have some have some Lake Country Blue Hybrid Foamed Wool Pad, some B & S Uro-Wool and Kamikaze Hybrid Wool...fortunately, the first try won`t be on a `vehicle that matters`.

Did use some of the purple foamed wool w/ my GG6 back when I first started; was able to learn from those a bit; unfortunately, the lesson had to do with what cutting thru clearcoat looked like. Oops.

dwaleke said:
For correction on hard clear I`ve used the Lake Country Purple and Blue foamed wool pads on both rotary and 3401. Other than they shed at first they worked great. I primed them and cleaned them with air and/or brush between panels. I have the spur, but never understood how it was supposed to work and just never used the wool pads enough to learn (other methods worked fine).

If I were buying today I`d pick up the Rupes blue wool for serious correction and yellow wool as an option for finer finish.

Sandro uses them a bit in this video. In one test spot I believe he achieved one of the best finish with the yellow wool as opposed to foam.

As I understand it the new wool pads correct great and may not leave a mess behind as wool pads of the past would always do.
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Wonder if the Rupes wool pads are the same as the ones they sell under the Cyclo bran name (I have those). They seemed to be about the same as the, uhm...eh, I forget the brand name but I have larger ones that might be the same material.

I dunno...I`ve used those, the PFW ones, and all the wool that was popular back in the day...and I doubt I`ll ever touch `em again as MF does everything better for me.

Spurs work fine (well, in the manner that they do..) with a rotary, much less so with RO/DAs.

Wool is nice in that it runs cooler than foam or (presumably?) MF. But again, I see zero reason to use them 99.9% of the time but if satisfying your curiosity is a reason then OK :D

Hope you don`t have an "oops!" as with the PFW.
 
I was watching a video with Jason Killmer on obsessed garage and he commented that wool pads cut better than microfiber and leave less marring. He proceeded to demonstrate it but seeing minute differences through a camera is impossible. He primed the pad and blew it out with an air compressor the same as microfiber.

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I`ve tried both the LC and Rupes new wool pads on the DA and after a section or too I go back to MF. I`m sure I just need more time with them but I didn`t see a noticeable difference to want to deal with them. The BOSS MF just feels so much smoother and they don`t lint fibers everywhere when new.

They may be a lot better on the rotary but I haven`t tried them with it yet.
 
I have lots of hours with Lake Country Purple Foam Wool Pads on 3 Jet Black BMW`s, 1 Jet Black Lexus, 1 Jet Black Honda Civic Farm Car, and a couple of Airplanes with that harder than steel, dirty nasty, Urethane Airplane Paint.. And of course, several other vehicles that were not Jet Black..

Nothing better for knocking down extreme paint defects quickly, and if used carefully, leave a pretty darn good result that does not require several more stages to bring to LSP ready..

Of course, only used a Makita rotary.. The Products used on all the above was Meguiars 105, and then Meguiars 205..
These pads will blow off a little wool at the beginning and then will settle down and cut very fast on a Rotary, perhaps not so fast on all other machines, I don`t know..

I read you already learned about what happens if you go too long or too hard, or the paint is really thin, weak, etc., dozens of variables come into play here..

That Spur tool is used to clean out the wool at the highest speed, which on a Makita is 3,000rpm... Perfect.... Just run the tool up and down the pad surface while its spinning..

Eventually the pad will wear down, flatten out, and will not correct as well, so you have to just toss them.. They have done their job...And done it well...

For the Correction and Polishing stages, I tend to use lower speeds, so I have more time to lift off the panel, and see how its going, before I get into trouble..

The other thing that has helped me immensely, was to purchase a Total Paint Thickness Meter, so I can get a baseline measurement, do the work, measure again, and see what changed, along with lots of eyeballing it..
Dan F
 
I have the new Rupes blue wool pads and I like them a lot with the DA but they can be used with a Rotary as well. These are the first wool pads I have ever used but I do not think they are like your old school twisted wool pads. On my dad`s BMW with Boss FCC I removed majority of the heavy defects and finished out pretty much LSP ready with 1 step. I followed up with Essence just to enhance the paint but to most people it would not have even been necessary.

I really enjoyed working with them and didnt feel it was unsafe to do so. Also with the Rupes wool I did not find any shedding of the wool at all.

For cleaning I have an air compression and used that to blow out the pads after each section.

I did not prime the pads. I generally do not prime MF/ foam anymore either. Just started with 6 pea size dots and started.

https://www.autogeek.net/rupes-coar...uctid=rupes-coarse-wool-6inch&channelid=BIZRA
 
Accumulator said:
... but if satisfying your curiosity is a reason then OK :D

Hope you don`t have an "oops!" as with the PFW.
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It`s usually the driving reason (curiosity) behind most things I do in this area. Curiosity may not have killed the cat but not always healthy for the `ol bank account either

I think I`ll stay away from using M101 with wool while really leaning into it. That was the issue with the PFM; that and curiosity, that is.
 
This was using the blue rupes wool and rupes 21 mk2 on speed 4.
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I have the rupes medium wool. It cuts like crazy and finishes out surprisingly well. You do need to clean it or change out between panels nothing too different. Wish I had a better air compressor set up.
 
I wonder if the Rupes Blue Wool is the same as the Cyclo (4") wool...I tried those a while back when trying to salvage the previous Crown Vic; this was Pre-MF Pads, and I was just hogging off clear instead of wetsanding, which they did do effectively. BUT these days I`d reach for an aggressive MF.

The Yellow Wool cut even better, but sure left things scoured up.

RaydiantDetail- What product were you using with the Blue Wool on that blue car? Between the wool and the 21 I bet things went nice and quickly! And yeah, that finished out nicely too.
 
Accumulator said:
I wonder if the Rupes Blue Wool is the same as the Cyclo (4") wool...I tried those a while back when trying to salvage the previous Crown Vic; this was Pre-MF Pads, and I was just hogging off clear instead of wetsanding, which they did do effectively. BUT these days I`d reach for an aggressive MF.

The Yellow Wool cut even better, but sure left things scoured up.

RaydiantDetail- What product were you using with the Blue Wool on that blue car? Between the wool and the 21 I bet things went nice and quickly! And yeah, that finished out nicely too.
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Hey Accumulator - In this instance Boss Fast Correcting Cream. I have also used The Last Cut compound with the blue wool pads and achieved similar results though I feel FCC does have slightly more cut.
 
RaydiantDetail- Ah, OK..thanks. That seems like especially nice finishing out for those pads with such aggressive stuff.

Eh, maybe the "Blue Wool Pads" aren`t the same or something...I had high hopes for `em, sure didn`t *need* to buy them but thought they`d be useful. Figured they`d be an easy way to up the aggressiveness of the Cyclo without resorting to those Yellow Foam Cutting Pads that I detest so much.
 
Unlike Accumulator, I still use and love my wool pads. I definitely cut faster than with microfiber. No contest. I use the following combination and it finishes down brilliantly.
Machine: Flex 3401
Product: Megs M100 usually
Pad: Tufbuff black wool or 3D black wool (they no longer make it)

Bullet proof.
 
Latley I`ve done a few heavily oxidized neglected cars. Wool with the rotary was what produced results after trying foam and the DA.
 
Richy and Dennis Hiip are working on *infinitely* more needy vehicles than I am! If those are on the schedule, then heh heh.. you`d better just use whatever gets the job done :D And use an ETG.
 
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