Using PC for 1st time, Need opinions.

S

slvrshadow94tt

New member
PC lovers, please point me in the right direction.

I have two each of the yellow, orange, and white LC variable contact pads, 6.5". I have Meg's #83, #82, and #9 on hand.

My methods of choice have always been by hand, but I'm ready to embrace the PC.

My paint is a bright silver metallic and in "extremely" good condition. It has few minor swirls and a few minor scratches. It has been garage-kept since new (1994) and has 50,000 miles. It's been washed, clayed, and is ready for polish. After polishing, I intend to seal with Zaino.



From the three pad choices and three polishes I have, what would give the best final result? I'm a little nervous and don't want to risk my paint/clearcoat while experimenting. :confused:
 
you definately aren't risking anything by trying the pc on your car unless you drop it on the hood or something.



without seeing your car i'm just gonna wing this. if there are swirls and scratches, no matter how fine, i would start with dacp and a white pad. my belief is that dacp i a very user friendly polish. it will buffer down to a fine polish and most probably leave a ready to wax finish if your car is in as good of condition as you say it is. if it doesn't work move up to the yellow pad. if it does. throw some #16 on it and call it a day.



oh yeah crank the pc to 5-6 to properly break down the polish.
 
If the white pad + DACP doesn't cut it (excuse the pun), would it be worthwhile to use the orange pad instead of yellow? I know that quite a few autopians are confused about when to go orange. Following DACP, should I go #82 or #9 on white? If I'm not mistaken, #82 should be a hint more aggressive with little or no filling properties. I've had great success with #9 by hand in the past, but always topped with Medallion. I want to focus on swirl removal this time since I'll be using Zaino.



Also, I intend to borrow my brother's digital camera and post some pictures...before and after polish...before and after Zaino.
 
I have only used the orange pads in the 4" size, and to be honest, I was not impressed. It did not last long at all; eventually the foam just started falling apart, or more like crumbled in spots. I now stick to the LC single purpose (cutting, polishing, finishing) pads.



As for #82 or #9, I used to be an avid #9 user. But then I tried #82! I prefer it better, as it seems a little more aggressive, but not overly so. It also seems to gloss the paint a little better. I also prefer its ease of use. Granted, these attributes may be attributed to my increase in experience, but nevertheless it is still my most reached for polish.



I have never used Zaino, but from what I've read, it doesn't like prior coatings of anything containing oils. You may need to strip any oils left from DACP, #9, or #82 with something prior to applying Zaino.



I'm with JCrawford on his recommendation of DACP with a white pad if you have swirls or scratches. It is a very effective combo, and leaves light colors (my white or your silver) ready for your LSP. I start out slow, then crank it up to 5-6 with very light pressure for the final passes. I've never had an marring left behind by this. #82 afterwards is "icing on the cake", adding more gloss. Only you can determine if your paint is ready for your LSP after DACP. But if you do feel something is necessary, I'd go with #82.



Dave
 
slvrshadow94tt,



It's impossible to tell you what pad/product combo will give you the best results without seeing your paint first. Even then you really have to try some products and pads and see what works. Some times a minor defect that looks like it would come out with a mild polish and pad will require an agressive polish and cutting pad. Recommending that you go to DACP right from the start is not good advise. You start with the least agressive pad/product combo and work your way up if you are not getting the results you want. From the pads and products you have, #9 and a white polishing pad would be the least agressive combo to start with. You said your paint is in extreamly good condition so this might be all you need to get the results you want.
 
I appreciate the advice guys!



Additional question........



It's advised to keep the PC pad flat on the body panels. Should I avoid using the PC on contoured surfaces like my fenders and bumpers? The Supra has some seriously curved body lines. The only "flat" panels are center of hood, small section on roof, and door panels.



Perhaps I'm "too nervous" about using this thing for the first time? :o
 
start off with a gentle selection (pad + polish) and see what it looks like and whether it meets your expectation. If your paint is excellent, don't get carried away with the more aggressive products.



Set a goal: Plan on doing just a couple of panels and quit. Critique your efforts and stop (or keep going) if things don't look right. IMO, you'd have to make a willful effort to damage the car with the PC...it's very gentle...sometimes too gentle.



Have fun !!
 
DACP is a pretty versatile product with the PC - like others said use 5~6 to get the abrasives to break down. Work in small sections (like half the hood) and follow the pattern from bottom left to top right horizontally, then top right to bottom left vertically then a diagonal from bottom left to top right (like making Z's) then again in the other direction. Work at a slow steady pace an let the machine do most of the work - a firm even pressure - don't bear down on it. You can do the Supra curves no problem, just be sure to avoid getting in tight near trim pieces (like a spoiler) to tight where the hard edge of the backing plate will make that "brrrrrrrr" noise that send chills down your spine (yes I have heard it).



If you follow that pattern it should take about 4-5 mins to do a section and the DACP will almost be gone (depending on how humid it is - the more humid it is the longer it takes for any product to haze up) - Once you get to that point - stop and remove with a clean MF cloth and inspect your work. If you have accomplished what you wanted great, if not but it looks better - try another pass. Keep in mind there are some scratches the PC cannot get out- If you can feel it with your fingernail then it is probably deeper than the PC can handle. You will lessen the severity of it by dulling the edges of the scratch but a PC will not generate the heat needed (a rotary will) to level the clear enough.



Have fun - the PC is almost fool proof and can accomplish a lot!
 
try using #9 first with the white pad. Since your car is silver, a very fine polish could work those swirls out. But, if you decide to go the DACP way, then go for it, the paint will get more gloss and the expense of a bit less clear, but no danger.
 
Thanks for all the good advice! I'm feeling alot less nervous about this now. I've read so much about the PC from all the searches I've done on this site. I really needed last minute reassurance that my initial plans were close to correct. I appreciate everyone's input!!

Here I go......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top