Using Meguiar's Scratch X

M

Mustang05

New member
Does anyone have experience with using this stuff? I recently picked up a used Corvette and was considering giving this a try. After a good wash and wax in the shade I noticed that there were light scratches and minor swirls visible during the daylight. I don't have access to a PC or any type of buffer. I'd like to try this stuff by hand and wanted to see if anyone had any tips or suggestions about this product.
 
Swirl removal is extremely hard to do by hand. I wouldn't suggest using ScratchX by hand to accomplish it either. If you want to try a product by hand then I wouldn't go any higher up the scale than Meguiar's #9 or 3M Swirl Mark Remover. Those are both really low on the scale of abrasives and will mostly fill the swirls to make them less noticible. Swirl removal is a job for a machine. Unless you have shoulders that have been conditioned by years of doing this kind of thing, then I would say that you won't get very far trying to remove them by hand. It would be like trying to torque lug nuts with your fingers. If you want the swirls gone then you need to get a PC.
 
Big Leegr said:
There are lots of threads on ScratchX.
http://www.detailcity.com/forums/search.php?searchid=288155 (ScratchX),
http://www.detailcity.com/forums/search.php?searchid=288158 (various posts on Scratches, with and without mentioning Scratch X)

I've found that you need to use it repeatedly, but it does work. Be willing/prepared to spend lots of time and expend lots of energy to do a good job. Also, don't "grind" at the paint. That can induce more marring, in my experience.
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I agree with my man Big L. It can be done by hand, ScratchX will fit the bill, and it will be a multiple pass ordeal. It will take quite a long time and it will probably wear you out - but it can be done.

With that being said, you probably will want to look at some sort of polisher - and not a $20 orbital from the dept. store.

Keep reading the good advice you've already recieved and you'll be well on your way to a nice looking & swirl free 'Vette.
 
Your best bet will be to get a PC. I know what your going through I drive a black car and my avatar says it all about the up-keep. My altima is '05 and its covered with cobweb scratches and etchings. Luckily I can get it to shine with the best of them, but when it comes to depth you can see a tremendous amount of flaws in the direct sunlight. I after trying various product and a lot of research if you want these things gone you need a PC and proper product. I myself am going to go with Meg's backing plate and pads, and Meg's #83, #80. I can show you countless threads from this site and others about how to deal with this and making a PC your best friend. I myself have never used a PC before so I'm very anxious to get everything and try it. Using scratch X takes alot of elbow grease.
 
I'd go with the PC too. I've found it to be of great benefit and for it's use, I simply wouldn't attempt by hand what I can do with the PC.
 
I really appreciate all the good feedback! I think after reading around this site a bunch the PC is the way to go. I've been looking into the 7424 model and trying to figure out the way to aproach my task. The only thing I don't like is the thought that with every use I would be slowly wearing down my clearcoat. At least I'm pretty sure that's the end result. But, I suppose that's just the way it goes. Frequent use would not be a good thing. Does this sound correct?

Thanks!
*LS1*
 
Unless you're using a heavier polish every weekend you won't have many, if any, problems with clearcoat wear. You don't start running into problems until you start rotary buffing. I've only ever heard of one person going through their paint with a PC, they were using megs diamond cut (rotary use only) and a yellow heavy cutting pad and they stayed in the same place for a half hour. This was on an older red honda, these are notorious for having less than stellar paint quality. You're perfectly safe with a PC.
 
I dont have a pc but I am now going to get one. I tried the scratch x and it got the big stuff.So for the real noticable crap it works ok. I have seen and read these articles and I am convinced that you need a pc to really get that perfect shine.
 
I'm not going to say only a monkey could damage his paint with a PC, because I am sure it can happen - but to give you an idea of how hard you would have to try, when I wetsanded my hood I wetsanded then polished with SSR3, Optimum Compound, and Optimum Polish on two seperate occassions, for probably a total of 6 hours with various pads (cutting, polishing, etc...). Last weekend I visited a friend in upstate NY with a paint thickness gauge and he got a reading of 0.05 mil less than when I started. That's actually a lot, considering you shouldn't remove more than 0.2-0.3 mil (realistically), but given the fact that the paint was sanded, then heavily compounded, I'd say you would need to do some serious work with a PC to damage your clear.
 
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