Using M105 for the first time today

SuperBee364

SuperBee364

New member
Thanks to fellow Autopian Greg Nichols, I have a sample of M105. Thanks, Greg!



I've actually had it for several weeks, but none of the cars I've done lately have been in bad enough shape to warrant anything stronger than SIP.



Then today's car came in. It is *thrashed*. It's a GM Prizm, and the paint is so horribly swirled and scratched, it's painful to look at. I'll post some pics of this one later.



Anyway, this will be my first attempt at using the M105. The clear coat feels a bit thin, though, so I'm not going to get really jiggy with it. I'm going to use the Edge 2k blue wool as well as the white finishing wool with the m105. Final polish will be white finishing wool with PO85RD.



Pics to come!



Edit: Just got done having my butt kicked by M105 for the first time. There's no doubt about it: of the Big Guns, this is the Biggest. I was getting exactly *one* pass out of it before it was flashing over. Yet in this one pass, it was doing an incredible amount of correction. I stayed with it for half the hood, but I just couldn't get any more than one pass out of it. And wow, does it clog up wool pads *fast*. Even spurring after every application wasn't enough to keep the pad from gumming up.



So I took Scottwax's advice and started cutting it with OC. It's made a huge difference. I'm getting two passes out of it now. :) I'm going to keep adding OC until I can get three. So far, cutting it with OC hasn't affected it's cutting ability at all. It's also finishing nicer with that extra pass thrown in. It doesn't leave nearly as bad of compounding swirls as does, say, HTEC or MPG. The cutting power of this stuff is astounding. It's like wet sanding with a compound.



Edit: the pictures didn't turn out. I'm doing this car without the use of my halogen stands, since running my halogens, new airconditioner, and buffer = tripped circuit breaker.
 
I'll try to get some pictures up tonight of scratches in an H2 I took out by hand with 105. First pass with an MF and 105, you could actually hear the MF passing over the scratch. By the 3rd go at it, no noise at all and the scratches were only visible (barely) at a severe angle.



Definitely a stout compound.
 
Scottwax said:
I'll try to get some pictures up tonight of scratches in an H2 I took out by hand with 105. First pass with an MF and 105, you could actually hear the MF passing over the scratch. By the 3rd go at it, no noise at all and the scratches were only visible (barely) at a severe angle.



Definitely a stout compound.
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I'd love to see those pics. Scott, how much OC are you adding to the M105 now?



Denzil said:
Great to hear your experience Supe! I can't wait for pics!!!
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Gonna go snap a few half hood shots right now. The clear on this car is really soft, so the compounding swirls are really bad. It's really too soft to be using a heavy hitter like M105 on, so I'm going to do the rest of the car with something gentle.. Like HTEC :)
 
For some reason it seems as if some Megs compounds and polishes have an issue with gumming up pads. Maybe the new 3m compound won't have this issue.
 
I just tried 105 Saturday and had about the same experience as SuperBee. I figure this is good stuff in the right hands, doesn't appear that they are attached to me! I'm going back to something a little easier for me to use. BTW - anybody try the Megs Solo system?
 
i had some issues with m105 gumming up wool also i added some UF and it seemed to solve it alittle bit



im gonna work with a couple combos and see if i can get this 105 to work for me
 
Thanks for the review Supe! For someone that already has OC would M105 be a nice addition to mix OC with to speed up heavy correction? I have OC but have not worked with it much.
 
tett said:
Regarding Solo... if I remember correctly from reading here, Solo is for uncured or new paint.
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I've seen it posted many a time on MOL that it works fine with cured paint as well. From Megs stance the idea behind Solo is that its designed for fresh paint in the sense it doesn't contain any "wax or polymer" protection in it. System One is like this as well. Probably others also.
 
Yeah, Shine, I can't imagine anything correcting faster than this stuff. When used by itself, it really has a learning curve, though. I don't think I'm good enough to ever be able to use M105 without cutting it with OC.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Yeah, Shine, I can't imagine anything correcting faster than this stuff. When used by itself, it really has a learning curve, though. I don't think I'm good enough to ever be able to use M105 without cutting it with OC.
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Try a small section using 105 and a white foam pad (dampened) and tell me what you think.....



Hit it with about 900-1200 rpm.....



You might be pleasently surprised.......:up
 
#105 is an excellent product. You do have to shake it up extremely well or else your results will be below par. When I last used #105 with Thomas (tdekany) I had brought a fresh bottle with me that I had poured out of the gallon I just purchased. When I was using it, #105 was acting strange and was not doing a thing. I then borrowed Thomas' #105 and it worked like it was supposed to, (almost LSP perfect). The end conclusion was that I did not shake the gallon up good enough before I poured it into the container. I thought that I shook the heck out of it, but apparently not.



If I was a newbie working with #105 I would have thought that it was a horrible product when it was my error. #105 is one of the better products on the market.
 
howareb said:
#105 is an excellent product. You do have to shake it up extremely well or else your results will be below par. When I last used #105 with Thomas (tdekany) I had brought a fresh bottle with me that I had poured out of the gallon I just purchased. When I was using it, #105 was acting strange and was not doing a thing. I then borrowed Thomas' #105 and it worked like it was supposed to, (almost LSP perfect). The end conclusion was that I did not shake the gallon up good enough before I poured it into the container. I thought that I shook the heck out of it, but apparently not.



If I was a newbie working with #105 I would have thought that it was a horrible product when it was my error. #105 is one of the better products on the market.
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Oh, I have no doubt that it's a great product. I'm sure that I'm just not doing it right, and honestly I think that I'm just not good enough to ever do so. :/





What pads were you guys using, Howareb? And technique?? I can really see how M105 would be great once it's tamed. The amount of correction and speed at which it works is really amazing. If I could just figure out how to use the stuff.
 
howareb said:
The end conclusion was that I did not shake the gallon up good enough before I poured it into the container. I thought that I shook the heck out of it, but apparently not.
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I think if detailing products came in clear bottles, we'd all shake them more. I've noticed that Clearkote VM (Or was it my Pb's Pro Polish?) takes quite a bit more shaking to get the white stuff from the bottom mixed in than you would think, and I'm quite sure I would have stopped if I couldn't see through the clear bottle that I wasn't "done". And that's a product which is fairly thin, I can't even imagine a bottle of thicker polish that has sat for a long time...although you could argue that a thicker polish won't settle out as fast. Anyway, gallons are that much harder to shake because of the weight.
 
SuperBee364 said:
What pads were you guys using, Howareb? And technique?? I can really see how M105 would be great once it's tamed. The amount of correction and speed at which it works is really amazing. If I could just figure out how to use the stuff.
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Thomas sugggested to me using purple wool foam pads and I must say that turned out to be the best method.



Prime the pad with a QD (Final Inspection), and put a dime amount on the outter edge of the wool. Spread and then work it in a 2x2 section 20-30 secs (Maktia 1500rpm), then check your work. Reload wool with just two-three pea size amounts on the outter edge of the wool pad, and work on the next section. I do not mix, I personally perfer to use it as it is.
 
The common denominator so far seems to be priming the pad with a QD first. Tomorrow I'll try both the white LC foam and purple foamed wool primed with a QD first. Hopefullly FK1 425 is as good at lubing pads as it is at QD'ing.



Thanks for the help, gents, I'm really struggling with this stuff.
 
My sample of M105 came from Greg's quart bottle. So I'm hoping Greg had it well-shaken when he dispensed my sample. :)



Maybe I should just break down and buy a quart.
 
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