Using an amp/sub with stock head unit, questions...

S

stilez

New member
So, I'm at my breaking point right now with these factory stereo in my company car, yet don't want to dump any cash in for a car that will be gone in a year. I still have my 10" Kicker Comp VR in a sealed box and Kicker 600 watt amp stored away from my Integra. I would really like to hook them up, so...



-What sort of equipment would I need outside of a 4-gauge wiring kit?



-Are there any adverse effects from doing this (other than lesser quality than if I used an after market receiver)?



-Where should I purchase these new products?







Best,

Sean
 
pac and stinger makes converters for almost everything, call a independently owned audio shop in your area, should run about $100, they do an excellent job for company cars and leased vehicles
 
Yes it is possible. As Brandon1 mentioned some headunits do beging to limit bass to prevent distortion. But not all of them do this, I dont know much about infinity's stock radios so I can't tell you for sure. Even if the HU does beging to limit bass at higher volumes you should still be good to go at reasonable listening levels.



Now depending what kicker amp you have, will depend what products you may or may not need. If the amp has speaker level inputs (not all of them do) then you dont need anything special to hook it up to you car. Tap the rear speakers for the speaker level signal and then run it to the amp (as well as the rear speakers still). That would provide the amp signal for the sub.



Now if your amp does not have speaker level inputs you will need something along the lines of a Line Output Converter. May companies make then, heck I think even walmart sells them. They are a simple tap into the rear speaker wires, sometimes a power, ground, and then run the RCA's to the amp. They can be purchased almost anywhere. I might suggest crutchfield.com . Yes I know they have slightly higher prices but their customer support is top notch and they are awsome at working with you through wiring issues or any questions you have during the install. And their hours for customer support are even better (8am to midnight est. 7 days a week)



The issue I have with something along the lines of what Brandon1 stated (which is not a bad product at all) but if you are going to spend 150 for that why not get a cheaper aftermarket headunit and avoid the need for it all together.



Adverse effects, not really. Obviously it wont be aftermarket quality but you seem to know that. While it may not be aftermarket it is still going to be better than a subless stock system.



I hope that helps a little.
 
corvettecrazy said:
Yes it is possible. As Brandon1 mentioned some headunits do beging to limit bass to prevent distortion. But not all of them do this, I dont know much about infinity's stock radios so I can't tell you for sure. Even if the HU does beging to limit bass at higher volumes you should still be good to go at reasonable listening levels.



Now depending what kicker amp you have, will depend what products you may or may not need. If the amp has speaker level inputs (not all of them do) then you dont need anything special to hook it up to you car. Tap the rear speakers for the speaker level signal and then run it to the amp (as well as the rear speakers still). That would provide the amp signal for the sub.



Now if your amp does not have speaker level inputs you will need something along the lines of a Line Output Converter. May companies make then, heck I think even walmart sells them. They are a simple tap into the rear speaker wires, sometimes a power, ground, and then run the RCA's to the amp. They can be purchased almost anywhere. I might suggest crutchfield.com . Yes I know they have slightly higher prices but their customer support is top notch and they are awsome at working with you through wiring issues or any questions you have during the install. And their hours for customer support are even better (8am to midnight est. 7 days a week)



The issue I have with something along the lines of what Brandon1 stated (which is not a bad product at all) but if you are going to spend 150 for that why not get a cheaper aftermarket headunit and avoid the need for it all together.



Adverse effects, not really. Obviously it wont be aftermarket quality but you seem to know that. While it may not be aftermarket it is still going to be better than a subless stock system.



I hope that helps a little.
Click to expand...



typically it's the amps in the system that are equalized and may limit the bass. As long as you bypass the factory amp you should get the full signal from the head unit. There are kits like suggested from PAC or other manufacturers that will bypass the stock system and allow a connection for an external amp and sub for many syatems. A good installer should be able to take care of it very easily.
 
So basically:



-Confirm my amp has speaker level inputs, then tap into my rear speakers to get the signal.

-Run the power kit for the amp.

-Connect, tune, go.



What should I run my remote wire to?
 
G35stilez said:
So basically:



-Confirm my amp has speaker level inputs, then tap into my rear speakers to get the signal.

-Run the power kit for the amp.

-Connect, tune, go.



What should I run my remote wire to?
Click to expand...





Personally I would connect your remote wire to a switched power source in the car. IE. something that is on when the key is in acc and the on position. I like this choice because when I am in my car I listen to music 95% of the time, so if the amp was on 5% of the time with no music on, no worries. (you can also add a switch to remote turn on wire. which would sovle the extra 5% of the time)
 
I always hooked my amp up to the fuse which controlled the radio when using at factory head unit.

Also, I thought you could get the line level converters for around $20 from PAC.
 
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