Using a shampoo with wax in it (meg's mothers etc)?

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dfoxengr

New member
Looking under the hood of my vehicle the other day I noticed clear coat failure on the lip of the fenders that bolt it to the rest of the body.

This got me to thinking, would using a shampoo with wax in it really leave a light coat of wax on these surfaces that I don't normally hit with LSP?



Even if it only lasted a week or two, some LSP is better than none. My thought is to foam or spray down a vehicle with this stuff then two bucket for regular wash. The foaming would get into the little cracks and leave this wax behind.



Does this stuff actually leave much behind? At least similar to spray wax?



UPDATE: 2/15/2013

Anyone tried something like this?

Permanon Platinum Finish Protection

looks to be almost exactly what I was originally asking for. wash car, spray solution all over and into cracks and crevices, wash off and dry car. car is now coated/protected for a few months.
 
dfoxengr said:
Looking under the hood of my vehicle the other day I noticed clear coat failure on the lip of the fenders that bolt it to the rest of the body.

This got me to thinking, would using a shampoo with wax in it really leave a light coat of wax on these surfaces that I don't normally hit with LSP?



Even if it only lasted a week or two, some LSP is better than none. My thought is to foam or spray down a vehicle with this stuff then two bucket for regular wash. The foaming would get into the little cracks and leave this wax behind.



Does this stuff actually leave much behind? At least similar to spray wax?
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Nope!

Grumpy
 
Yeah I was looking for something I could've just sprayed into cracks during the normal wash process that never get waxed like the hood to fender gap/lip. The idea would've also been good for panel to panel gaps, etc. All the small little places you never get wax into, even places a quick wax couldn't get into.
 
dfpxengr- I spend a weekend doing those areas properly...polish (gotta be *very* gentle, that "basecoat fogged over the primer or e-coat" is often *VERY* thin), and then LSP x many.



Then at each wash I spritz on some leaves-stuff-behind QD between washing (small BHB) and drying.



And yeah, I do wash/QD those areas every single time I wash a vehicle. The initial LSPing can last for many years since you don't get to get very aggressive about cleaning those areas and the QD provided a bit of sacrificial LSP.
 
I disagree with Ron K, Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner is one of the best around for protection.



Autoglym%20Bodywork%20Shampoo%20Conditioner.jpg




It leaves behind substantial polymer protection and anti-corrosion additives. You need to really dry it well due to its polymer load, otherwise it leaves (polymer) water-stains.



It leaves nice protection and gloss for about a month.



The same is true for ONRv3+....can't vouch for any anti-corrosive additives.
 
But are any of these products protecting/preventing premature CC failure? I personally don't think any wash product can leave behind enough of anything to do this. CC failure is usually a by-product of improper paint application or materials used (substrate/coating). Yes, regularly washing your car and flusing harmful contaminants like road salt will prevent corrosive buildup for things like rust, but I just don't see how a wash product can do much more?
 
It depends on many things. A lot of 'wax' containing products do not contain any wax and it is not uncommon for them to have no sealant type character either. Instead you often get surfactants which form weak chemical bonds to the surface and thus will persist on the surface for some time (potentially multiple washes). These will mimic waxes/sealants and can give beading or sheeting, depending upon the product. If looking at beading/sheeting, it would be tough to tell the difference between this and wax/sealant containing products. In fact we have seen this effect multiple times when a user will complain about their LSP being stripped only to find it recovers a week later after the vehicle has been battered by rain - surfactants are sticky and without a lot of water, many will simply not be removed.



On a related note you have to also consider whether your wax/sealant or shampoo containing them actually will provide any protection. In our experience, it is UV which is the primary problem. In our tests (we use a UV source and spectrometer), the majority of LSP products we have tested provide very little UV protection. This should not necessarily surprise you if you think about something like carnauba which comes from plant leaves. The plant itself survives through photosynthesis which is reliant on UV. If carnauba blocked UV, the plant would die. I would actually like more suppliers providing proof of their UV claims because I have test results which are pretty conclusive that some tell straight lies!
 
PiPUK said:
I would actually like more suppliers providing proof of their UV claims because I have test results which are pretty conclusive that some tell straight lies!
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Good info - I'd like to see ANY company provide this! Especially with interior "protectants".
 
I believe my CC failure is due to water sitting on this surface. The LSP would hopefully stop that. I'm not thinking this will fix my current problem,. but help avoid it in the future on other vehicles.
 
David Fermani said:
But are any of these products protecting/preventing premature CC failure? I personally don't think any wash product can leave behind enough of anything to do this.
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I'm not sure about any influence on CC failure but I do believe some can leave enough behind to offer a small amount of protection for a few short weeks. I believe ONR will do this, as the paints' dirt-releasing properties improve with frequent use. This indicates to me there is some sort of film-build going on which protects the paint.



I haven't used AG shampoo enough to comment on whether it has the same effect.
 
Would agree with that too.......It will leave a little something behind to block bid bombs temporarily and even resoiling. But clearcoat failure or anti-rust attributes??
 
David Fermani said:
Would agree with that too.......It will leave a little something behind to block bid bombs temporarily and even resoiling. But clearcoat failure or anti-rust attributes??
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Rust inhibition is possible - basically they react with metals leaving something which does not, or is not as prone to, rust. That said, most of the areas of application we may talk of will not be bare metal at which point rust inhibitors are somewhat pointless...
 
i'm not a big fan of wax n' wash type of products and would rather follow up with a spray wax after the initial wash...
 
My experience is that some wash & wax products leave something behind and provide a visual improvement and some protection/beading properties.



Even with a spray wax follow-up, I still see a benefit from using such products. The wash water runs into all the nooks and crannies, between panels, into paint fissures, and other unseen areas. If it carries some polymers and rust inhibitors with it, it can only be a good thing.
 
Huh...I never thought of wash-with-wax products as leaving enough of anything behind as to be rust-inhibitive; I learn something every day!



But I'm also wondering about how, while these products can indeed get into nooks and crannies, rinse water can too get in there too, perhaps rinsing away some of the benefit :think:



Enamored as I am of the Griot's Car Wash, I can think of a specific situation (or two) where any such benefits would be genuinely helpful.



What's the consensus regarding which product is best in this regard?
 
Rust inhibitors sometimes (not always) bond very strongly. Like some of the advanced coatings out there, they covalently bond and physically become 'one' with the metal. Rust inhibitors are actually extremely easy and you will often find that chemicals which are included primarily for other reasons will in fact provide some degree of inhibition. That is metals and rust - UV and clearcoat is a totally different story!
 
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