Using a Rotary

DetailsIM

New member
How long did it take you to learn how to use one? I am itching to buy one so I can really take swirls out of customer cars. How long did it take for you to feel safe to use it on other cars besides your own? Thanks! :waxing:
 
Maybe I'm just brave, but it didn't take me too long to feel safe. I used it a few times on old scrap hoods and doors. I just try to be very careful on edges, around moldings, etc. I found that wool is a lot smoother than foam, but tends to make a mess w/ the excess wool pieces. Good luck.
 
It's funny because I had a big fear of the rotary but then I decided to purchase one and I just ran with it. I agree, first thing is you have to respect the rotary. You need to get a feel for it, know how it moves and then you need to get familiar with pad and polish combo. You will notice that you won't really require cutting pads to much. Majority of the times you will find finishing pads work best. If you go to aggressive pad and polish you’re left with lots of micro marring.



Well just my feed back.
 
Nica said:
It's funny because I had a big fear of the rotary but then I decided to purchase one and I just ran with it. I agree, first thing is you have to respect the rotary. You need to get a feel for it, know how it moves and then you need to get familiar with pad and polish combo. You will notice that you won't really require cutting pads to much. Majority of the times you will find finishing pads work best. If you go to aggressive pad and polish you’re left with lots of micro marring.



Well just my feed back.



While I agree with the later statement, you must be doing Hondas to only use polishing pads :D
 
Hey do you guys know of any wool pads fine enough to finish with on a rotary without any micro marring or hazing etc...
 
About two years to use it properly but five years to get close to mastering it

I've had no formal training with a pro standing by me which probably didn't help.
 
Took me 4 hours to get the hang of it on my personal vehicle. After that its all ive been using on customer vehicles, my PC is collecting dust.
 
Tape up moldings! Skip plastic bumpers. Take it easy on the speed, I've never had to go over 1200-1300 rpm. Keep the pad moving and check the surface temp of the car with the back of your hand - should feel warm but NOT hot. Relax, and breathe normally, let the machine do the work. You'll quickly learn how to move the pad by lifting (slightly) the opposite side of the direction you want to go. One thing that helped me was I had experience with an industrial floor buffer (no I didn't ride it like Bill Engal) but I learned not to try to man-handle it, cause it has unlimited energy - I didn't!
 
DetailsIM said:
How long did it take you to learn how to use one? I am itching to buy one so I can really take swirls out of customer cars. How long did it take for you to feel safe to use it on other cars besides your own? Thanks! :waxing:
I learned on my personal vehicle a couple years ago, I just used it for the second time on a Benz S430 and the results were stunning. The rotary is nothing to fear, just use common sense and all will be fine.
 
Yea I hope to get one soon as well. Im going to pick up some scrap hoods/panels from local body shops to practice on. It might be a good idea for anyone starting out w/ a rotary



Jim
 
I have been trying to use a rotary, and it does take some time. I learned to slow down and let the machine work was the big one. I still have micromaring and some fine haze, but I always like to folow up with my PC as I get a really glossy finish. So right now I use the Rotary for heavy scratches and PC for finish and slight correction work.



I still cannot quite figure out why I get haze and micro from using a black 3M pad??? I am using OP with it and 1000rpm



I will keep working at it, but I find it much faster than a PC for Major correction work.



I had a deep scratch that I got out with wool and the rotary, that the PC could not deal with. The paint got really worked over, to the point I thought I messed up, but I just worked the PC over it and Wa La........looks great.



GREG
 
Becuase holograms and micro-marring are very shallow, there is no need to be aggressive to remove them. Thats why you are able to remove them with your PC, its less agressive than your rotary.
 
You can do plastic bumpers with a rotary but don't go more aggressive than 1500 grit with a polish pad.
 
lecchilo said:
While I agree with the later statement, you must be doing Hondas to only use polishing pads :D



Well I've done a few vehicles, yes some Hondas but I did a Mercedes with the ceramic clear coat and all I used was Edge orange pad with Menzerna 106FF and it left micromarring, so I had to go over it with Menzerna FPII with Edge white pad and this removed all the micromarring left from the orange pad. Well that's just my experiance.



I guess it all depends what polish/compund you use, but I've noticed that when using Menzerna you don't require really aggresive pads....oh and use Lake Country when using Menzerna.
 
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