Use of a Glaze with High End Waxes
- Thread starter DM101
- Start date
superstring
New member
If you're using a wax like Zymol (Vintage or whatever) "proper prep" would presumably include using HD Cleanse which is a cleaner-glaze. Same thing with Swissvax Cleaner Fluid. Are you asking whether it's OK to skip this step? Seems to me that it would depend how perfectly polished and free from polish residue the surface is.
SuperBee364
New member
I've been tempted more than once to skip the HD-Cleanse step before using Vintage, but in the end I always do it. Supposedly, these pre-wax cleaners contain ingredients to help the wax cure/bond to the paint better than if there's nothing on the paint at all. They also help to clean away any leftover polishing residue, but a good IPA wipedown should do that as well.
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
SuperBee364 said:
I have always found that HD-Cleanse adds more to the paint then the wax.
HD-Cleanse and SV Cleaner Fluid are infact glazes. I prefer Red Moose Machine Glaze to both of the previous products...
steelwind101
New member
Hi!
I think you might be reffering to the thread that i posted on earlier? As i said their you want to complement the high end wax with a glaze or prep product that will not distract from the wax qualities.
If your going high end then a quality swirl free finish with a good level of optics from the wax will bring the best out of the paintwork. Darkening it too much with a glaze IMO spoils the high end waxes.
Like TH0001 i am a huge fan of RMG, it doesnt create a faux wet finish. It hardly darkens the paintwork, it increases the visability of metalic and pearl accents. Its idea for the high end Z and S waxes! I too have enjoyed the finish of HD Cleanse but found that application can be picky.
Its realistic to believe that someone might have a paintwork colour they do not like and may want to darken it on purpose. Maybe you would want to enduce a overtly high level of gloss or wetness (to a plastically and fake level) then of course you can do that with one of the many glazes on market. I cant justify a coat of Destiny or Vintage on it though.
Like wise, some glazes fill etc. they all have there place so the paintwork should dicatate what you choose. Esp. if your lucky enough to be able to have a wide selection at your disposal.
Geoff
I think you might be reffering to the thread that i posted on earlier? As i said their you want to complement the high end wax with a glaze or prep product that will not distract from the wax qualities.
If your going high end then a quality swirl free finish with a good level of optics from the wax will bring the best out of the paintwork. Darkening it too much with a glaze IMO spoils the high end waxes.
Like TH0001 i am a huge fan of RMG, it doesnt create a faux wet finish. It hardly darkens the paintwork, it increases the visability of metalic and pearl accents. Its idea for the high end Z and S waxes! I too have enjoyed the finish of HD Cleanse but found that application can be picky.
Its realistic to believe that someone might have a paintwork colour they do not like and may want to darken it on purpose. Maybe you would want to enduce a overtly high level of gloss or wetness (to a plastically and fake level) then of course you can do that with one of the many glazes on market. I cant justify a coat of Destiny or Vintage on it though.
Like wise, some glazes fill etc. they all have there place so the paintwork should dicatate what you choose. Esp. if your lucky enough to be able to have a wide selection at your disposal.
Geoff
TH0001 said:
I ordered P21S 100% on your reccomendation and would like to use a glaze prior to application, after seeing results of RMG topped with a nuba on black I saw it was the look I was going for but how does it look on lighter finishes and non metallics? I need a glaze that will look great on lighter finishes.
SuperBee364
New member
TH0001 said:
I'm *finally* down to my last bottle of HD-Cleanse. When it's gone, the moose will be loose. Can't wait to finally try this stuff.
And like the above poster asks.... machine or hand application?
Super_Herb
New member
I personally use a finishing pad to apply it.
imported_DieselMDX
New member
i use ez creme glaze,rmg,hd,cf under my waxes
superstring
New member
SuperBee364 said:
A vote for machine polishing: Polishing pad (eg. Megs 8006) or finishing pad (eg. LC Black). Don't apply too much RMG to the pad and buff 'till dry. Better yet, apply with a 4" polishing/finishing pad. PC speed 3.
SuperBee364
New member
superstring said:
Just what I needed to hear, thank you!
Envious Eric
New member
my RMG get applied with a pc speed 5, with a megs finishing pad...I top with OCW
It has been my experience that, once the paint has been properly prepped, you should go right to the wax. The true testament to a wax's ability is in how it can render the paint WITHOUT aid coming from other lsp's.
Now, on the other hand, if you use a product after the prep process, that basically enhances the polished state of the paint without providing an lsp type of render, then you can experiment to see if it will add some benefit. Whatever you may decide to use, IMO the best result from examples I've seen have basically come from well prepped paint surfaces and well spaced out doseages of one wax of your choice.
Which reminds me.....that time of the year is fast approaching for me!!!! Time to break out of hibernating!
Now, on the other hand, if you use a product after the prep process, that basically enhances the polished state of the paint without providing an lsp type of render, then you can experiment to see if it will add some benefit. Whatever you may decide to use, IMO the best result from examples I've seen have basically come from well prepped paint surfaces and well spaced out doseages of one wax of your choice.
Which reminds me.....that time of the year is fast approaching for me!!!! Time to break out of hibernating!
SuperBee364
New member
Ya know lbls1, until this very day I thought the exact same thing; a detail should stand on it's prep work. And I still do think that that is very true, but consider the following statement from Todd: "A perfectly flat clear coat can only shine so much. Beyond that point, it takes something on it's surface to offer more shine." That may not be word for word what he said eariler, but the jist of the statement is there. Once you have jeweled a car to the limits of the pad/polish being used, you then have to rely on other things if you want even more gloss. That being the case, I think I'm going to start using more glazes under my LSP's to see exactly how much more a jeweled surface can be raised.
I'll never use them as a crutch; I take too much pride in my prep work to ever try to use a glaze as a cover up. I just want to use them as one more tool towards the maximum gloss I can get.
Edit: lbls1, do you use HD-Cleanse under your Vintage, or are you putting the Vintage on bare clear?
I'll never use them as a crutch; I take too much pride in my prep work to ever try to use a glaze as a cover up. I just want to use them as one more tool towards the maximum gloss I can get.
Edit: lbls1, do you use HD-Cleanse under your Vintage, or are you putting the Vintage on bare clear?
I actually used HD Cleanse one year before my polish phase. I like putting Vintage right on the prepped paint surface. My prep will usually contain my polishing team and a surface cleaner (to clear up the haze).
Now with that last statement. A lot of people have the notion that once the clearcoat is prepped that it is maxed out in terms of shine. Remember one of the qualities that the EG's are known for; EG's won't really give you a lot of "gloss". What waxes will do in general, and what the EG's are especially talented in doing, is rendering extended depth of shine imaging in the clearcoated paint. If you compare the reflective quality of just prepped paint and paint that contain one or two rounds of an excellent wax, you may notice that the images could look sharper, and deeper in appearance. You can have volume from stacking up wax and other products, but the quality that differentiates many of zymol's waxes is that they can give you depth while maintaining the intensity of color without "clouding" or bringing in unwanted impurities from by-products that could be found by combining several different lsp products on the paint at the same time.
Edit: In hindsight....I'd probably concur with that statement you quoted. But how you add gloss and volume is what's important....end edit.
Zymols have shown their best telents by rendering clear and deep reflections, while amplifying color and clarity of paint without using excessive gloss or sheen (in the lower layering stages). It is very difficult to maintain ultra clear clarity IMO if you start piling on a lot of different lsp products; Some that may or may not work well together. But then again, that's how I see it.......lol!
Now with that last statement. A lot of people have the notion that once the clearcoat is prepped that it is maxed out in terms of shine. Remember one of the qualities that the EG's are known for; EG's won't really give you a lot of "gloss". What waxes will do in general, and what the EG's are especially talented in doing, is rendering extended depth of shine imaging in the clearcoated paint. If you compare the reflective quality of just prepped paint and paint that contain one or two rounds of an excellent wax, you may notice that the images could look sharper, and deeper in appearance. You can have volume from stacking up wax and other products, but the quality that differentiates many of zymol's waxes is that they can give you depth while maintaining the intensity of color without "clouding" or bringing in unwanted impurities from by-products that could be found by combining several different lsp products on the paint at the same time.
Edit: In hindsight....I'd probably concur with that statement you quoted. But how you add gloss and volume is what's important....end edit.
Zymols have shown their best telents by rendering clear and deep reflections, while amplifying color and clarity of paint without using excessive gloss or sheen (in the lower layering stages). It is very difficult to maintain ultra clear clarity IMO if you start piling on a lot of different lsp products; Some that may or may not work well together. But then again, that's how I see it.......lol!
steelwind101
New member
detaildoc: A polymer glaze that fills would be Prima Amigo.