UPP durability?

DrGonzo

New member
I'm thinking that applying UPP after DACP might have been a mistake. After a month(almost to the day), the UPP was completely gone except for the rocker panels and the area just above them. The only other reason i can think of would be the NXT wash that i use, but i really doubt that it would be detrimental to UPP and be fine with every other type of wax that i have used.



Is using nothing between DACP and UPP the reason for the durability issues?
 
what makes you think/assume UPP is complety gone....also did you apply two coats or how many..also anything inbetween dacp and upp...i was informed upp gives a nice gloss but in a few weeks it will diminish but the protection is still there... Patrick is top Dog and know about UPP and if dacp is incompatible...but im think it shouldnt be a problem....
 
no experience with upp only 4* products i use are clay. i am very curious though cuz i want to try some. professionally speaking if its durability doesnt match ksg im not interested but for my dd ill give it a try. how easy to use compared to sg?
 
Djmigs said:
what makes you think/assume UPP is complety gone....also did you apply two coats or how many..also anything inbetween dacp and upp...i was informed upp gives a nice gloss but in a few weeks it will diminish but the protection is still there... Patrick is top Dog and know about UPP and if dacp is incompatible...but im think it shouldnt be a problem....





There was absolutely no beading, not even any sheeting of water, nothing. It wasn't nearly as slick as when i applied it, and i got squeeking while running my finger over the hood. It was two coats of UPP with 24 hours between each coat, and i let the UPP dry at least 15 minutes each time. There was nothing in between the DACP and the first coat of UPP, i used NXT wash before the second coat.
 
VaSuperShine said:
no experience with upp only 4* products i use are clay. i am very curious though cuz i want to try some. professionally speaking if its durability doesnt match ksg im not interested but for my dd ill give it a try. how easy to use compared to sg?



UPP's durability does not match SG.

How easy is it to use? Think of the easiest LSP you've ever applied...it's like that.





DrGonzo said:
There was absolutely no beading, not even any sheeting of water, nothing. It wasn't nearly as slick as when i applied it, and i got squeeking while running my finger over the hood. It was two coats of UPP with 24 hours between each coat, and i let the UPP dry at least 15 minutes each time. There was nothing in between the DACP and the first coat of UPP, i used NXT wash before the second coat.



Are you talking about no beading/sheeting during the wash, or during a rain event or rinse? Often the beading of the LSP will be affected greatly by the soap. When washing or rinsing the soap off, the beads will be scarce, but during a rainstorm or during a rinse before the wash, the paint will bead very well. Some soaps just leave a residue which affects the beading.
 
VaSuperShine said:
no experience with upp only 4* products i use are clay. i am very curious though cuz i want to try some. professionally speaking if its durability doesnt match ksg im not interested but for my dd ill give it a try. how easy to use compared to sg?





It's extremely easy to use, it goes on easy and is the easiest product i have ever used as far as removal goes, its extremely slick as well. I have never used KSG, but based on what i hear i don't think KSG would be easier to remove.
 
White95Max said:
UPP's durability does not match SG.

How easy is it to use? Think of the easiest LSP you've ever applied...it's like that.









Are you talking about no beading/sheeting during the wash, or during a rain event or rinse? Often the beading of the LSP will be affected greatly by the soap. When washing or rinsing the soap off, the beads will be scarce, but during a rainstorm or during a rinse before the wash, the paint will bead very well. Some soaps just leave a residue which affects the beading.



We had rain about a week ago, and it didn't bead well at all, it looked like it was trying to sheet at best. At the time i thought it might have just been a quirk of UPP. The car was extremely dirty at the time(very thick pollen) so i didn't think much of it. Today i was washing and i know the beads aren't as great during washing, but it was nothing, no beading at all even after a full minute. There was no slickness at all while washing and after washing, i'm very confident that the paint was bare.
 
I would also like to add that the bottle is nearly three years old, i bought it in autumn 2003. I make sure to shake it for a couple minutes before each use. Would the age cause a problem?
 
I have AIO/UPPX2 on my car and beading is still going strong after 5 weeks of almost light daily morning rain and no covered partking at work. The first few washes were with NXT and the last couple were with Poorboy's SS&S. I also apply HGAS after every wash, so that probably helps. Definitely not as slick as when first applied, but still beading like crazy.
 
lol white, the easiest product ive ever used as far as removal by hand....hands down mother carnuaba cleaner wax. it practically blows off in the wind. it dries super fast and wipes off with a simple rub up against it. my main selling point well what works with the people in this area is longevity i do use other lsps but when selling a big job i ordinarily have to explain to them exactly how long it lasts so ksgX4 is normally what i sell and do. would still like to try upp though. anything to make my job easier on lesser jobs.
 
I have AIO/UPPX2 on my car and beading is still going strong after 5 weeks





so upp beads as opposed to sheet? is it a carnuaba base?
 
I can only guess that age might be an issue - nothing scientific there, though. I've also found that it needs to be shaken really, really, really (yada yada) well. During application, as well as beforehand.



That said - and I have yet to use SG - I'm continually amazed at the durability of UPP. Granted, I generally apply two coats over a 24 hour period, but using my SUV as an example, the results are incredible. I park outside and during weekdays the truck is exposed to a lot of salt air.
 
Heavy pollen and parking under trees while it is raining can just kill beading.



I get 3-4 months durability with UPP, add another month if applied over AIO.
 
How easy is it to use? Think of the easiest LSP you've ever applied...it's like that.





It is very easy to apply, but not as easy as Glanz Wax or S100, IMO. What's really excellent is its ease of REMOVAL.



I tend to get about 3 months on my Nissan with nothing underneath.
 
DrGonzo said:
I'm thinking that applying UPP after DACP might have been a mistake. ...



Is using nothing between DACP and UPP the reason for the durability issues?



I think maybe the residual polishing oils in DACP may have affected the bonding of the UPP. I have gotten 3-4 months out of UPP when applied after UPC.
 
DrGonzo said:
The car was extremely dirty at the time(very thick pollen)



There's the culprit then. No car is going to bead when it's extremely dirty.





VaSuperShine said:
ksgX4 is normally what i sell and do.



How do you manage to do KSGx4 on a customer car? Do you keep it for a couple days or more?







VaSuperShine said:
so upp beads as opposed to sheet? is it a carnuaba base?



IMO, beading vs sheeting depends more on how the water is applied than anything else. Whether the car has a wax or sealant on it doesn't matter...when I sheet the water off of my car with the hose (minus nozzle), the water sheets off. Paste Glaz, Nattys, #16, UPP, WG, whatever...it sheets. If it's raining, there will be beads all over the car.
 
I think maybe the residual polishing oils in DACP may have affected the bonding of the UPP. I have gotten 3-4 months out of UPP when applied after UPC



I agree with that hypothesis. I've been using UPP for a while now, and find it's fairly durable. I put it on over a base layer of AIO, though.



Compared to KSG (which I used extensively before)...not as durable, but the deeper shine and ease of removal more than make up for it for me.



blue skies,

Andrew
 
Ya know, I have had the same problem with UPP. I used it on my GF's car, and two of my customers cars, and after about 3-4wks, they are all not beading at all. They do sit outside. But none of them was washed inbetween my details. I have stopped using it for my customers b/c of the limited longevity.
 
White95Max said:
IMO, beading vs sheeting depends more on how the water is applied than anything else. Whether the car has a wax or sealant on it doesn't matter...when I sheet the water off of my car with the hose (minus nozzle), the water sheets off. Paste Glaz, Nattys, #16, UPP, WG, whatever...it sheets. If it's raining, there will be beads all over the car.



I agree. I do sheet the water with the nozzle off prior to drying and have the faucet open a fair amount. But if I were to set the nozzle at a light mist, I can get it the car with UPP applied to bead nicely. Where I really notice that UPP is still going strong is when it rains, it beads up and when I start driving, the water just runs off the car! If it stops raining before I get home, it's usually almost completely dry after about 5 minutes of driving.



I do notice that some LSP's have tighter beads than others. I have KSG applied to a family van that stays outside 24/7 and is washed probably only about every 3-4 weeks and beading is still very tight after 6 weeks. I applied Pink Wax to my dad's SUV and the beading is almost as tight as the KSG. But all will sheet water when hosed off without the nozzle on.
 
Brandon1 said:
Ya know, I have had the same problem with UPP. I used it on my GF's car, and two of my customers cars, and after about 3-4wks, they are all not beading at all. They do sit outside. But none of them was washed inbetween my details. I have stopped using it for my customers b/c of the limited longevity.



After 4 weeks of not being washed, there are too many dirt particles on the surface to allow beading to occur. The beads are getting pulled apart by the adhesive forces presented by the contaminants on the surface.
 
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