Updated Polishing Advice

K

KnuckleBuckett

New member
Hi Folks.


Just picked up a new (to us) 2015 Ultra White LS460 FSport and I am replacing all of my old supplies from scratch, due to age, wear, and low volumes left in my containers.

I have always polished with Megs #4 for heavy cut and 3M Perfect-IT for the rest. LC CCS foam pads with PFW and plain wool for the rare heavy work. I use a Makita rotary most of the time and a Flex DA for this and that.

Should I abandon by polishing machines and go with a new long throw DA? I would rather not, however if that is the way of the future I suppose now would be the time to do so...

I typically stick to smaller pads in that I have the time and like the control.

Price is not a huge concern in that a little goes a long way for my needs.

What brands of pads and polishes are the way to go these days?

Pad Options - Feel free to add or subtract!
Lake Country Waffle Pro
3M Perfect-IT
Rupes (can you even use these on a rotary??)
Kamakaze

Polish Options - Feel free to add or subtract!
3M
Gyeon
McKee`s
Sonax

Has anyone dealt with this paint before? New to me, I actually started a similar post in the wrong portion of this forum...so don`t think I am nuts, just a bit of a mess. :mellow:

Thanks for the help!
 
Add Mckee`s 37 Blue or Adams H2O guard and gloss. Each adds phenomenal water beading. There are some videos on YouTube of each.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks. Been reading the forums a good bit trying to pick out what I need. Sounds like there is no reason to change my machines. Now to figure out the pads and polishes.
 
Is the Ultra White on a Lexus a single stage paint like its Toyota cousins OR is it clear coated?? Maybe someone who does know can chime in.

I only say this because white single stage paints can be somewhat hard because of the titanium dioxide pigments used in white colors.


I would also suggest PB`s White Diamond "glaze" or CarPro`s Essence be added to your detailing chemical products.

If your pads are more than 15 years old, you might want to consider replacing them. A lot of detailers like Lake County`s Hydro Techs foam pads, but their work life is somewhat short (which is why they are nicknamed Hydro Shreds).

I agree on keeping your polishing machines if you feel comfortable using them. New pads and new compounds and/or polishes might make it easier and better at keeping your new Ultra White Lexus looking pristine.
 
KnuckleBuckett said:
I think it is a three stage paint. I say that because our LS430 was and had a similar look to it.
Click to expand...

Yeah ive read that Lexus tints their clear, which makes it seem like SS since you get color transfer to the pad.

At any rate, I`d recommend 3D/HD and Menzerna polishes.

Pads are intensely personal, but I like the LC hydros. They work well for both rotary and DA use. For harder paint like that, you might consider some MF pads. Depending on how defects there are to remove, you`ll be able to cut quickly and get a nice finish. Of course, with a car like that you`ll still wanna do a really fine finishing polish but it`d be 2 steps instead of a potential 3, depending on how it all works out.
 
Pad options
BS Low pros
LC HDO
3d Spider pads

Kamikaze Benzai pad
BS uro Fiber
CS2 wool pad


Compound/polish
Sonax lineup
Griots Boss cremes
Shine Supply
3d polish+/Cut+
Clear Finish Endurance primer polish
 
The products that you are using are not the most current technology. Unless you have a paint gauge stay away from the rotary. Don`t let anyone tell you that your specific car is hard or soft, a test spot will tell you. As far as I know Griot`s is the latest technology in polishing chemicals. I think you would be happy in how effective the products and machines are.
 
KnuckleBucket- If you`re a genuine Rotary-Meister (zero holograms/etc.) then there you are, so no need to switch. (FWIW, despite lots of experience I can`t use one well enough so I`m all about good DAs.)

If your Fles is the 3401, FWIW I can`t get a Final Finish that satisfies me with that machine even though others think its results look fine. I *always* see an improvement after a follow-up with something else. Always.

Don`t use the M04 on modern paint, or at least I sure wouldn`t. WAY too harsh initial bite, doesn`t diminish down fine/fast enough either IMO. (Liked it OK on ss back in the day.)

Lots of today`s Finishing Polishes will leave a much nicer finish (and with less work) than any 3M PI/FI product I`ve ever used and I used to be all about stuff like the 05937 (still remember the p#s :D ).

Note that many of today`s Japanese vehicles have *EXTREMELY* thin clear.

IMO you oughta first decide between diminishing/not abrasive products. I`m all about the latter these days, simply love `em. For some final burnishing the diminishing abrasives are OK, but overall I never use those any more, at least not for actual correction.
 
I have had very good success with Sonax perfect finish. It goes on super easy and works on light to moderate imperfections. It would work great with your Flex machine.
HD speed is also a great product that goes on and comes off as easy as anything I have used. Top off these products with a good wax and you will be very happy.
 
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