Unusual Situation, need advice

A

AutoDLR

New member
Here’s the situation, I have a small dealership and am looking to get advice on detailing used vehicles for sale. Most of them are 3 years old or newer. I detail some myself but want to have a standard process for our reconditioning department to follow since right now there isn’t any.



The unusual part is I am blind. I do enjoy detailing and remember how nice vehicles look when I had sight.



Here our My goals I want for the process:



Shortest time possible: Probably a polish and wax/sealant. Would not have time for multiple layers or steps etc.



Inexpensive materials: Obviously it’s a business so keeping an eye on costs is important.



Final results: I want vehicles to look as sharp as possible given material and time restrictions and as long lasting as possible.



I would also like to have a process that I could use when I have a chance to detail vehicles. I would like to use a PC since everyone says it saves time and improves results.



I appreciate any suggestions.
 
ok i'll pay it out as simply as possible if i was doing a car for speed and down and dirty cheep..



Bad car

wash car with any car soap

clay with any clay

wheels meg wheel brightener



high temp extream cut lever/Opt polish two lines rotary wool pad and speed under 2000

don't wipe off excces but do a good job of working the polish in. it should disapear.



opt polish rotary polish/finish pad 1000-1200 TOPS on black cars I would use FPII



Opt spray wax while wiping off the polish.



PB trim resorer for all trim..



PB natural look for inside plastic(it has biocides so it will disinfect a used car YUCK)



I like PB bold and bright because it cleans tires while protecting.



and any glass cleaner..



if you need to wash the cars again use OPT wax every time afterwards while drying to keep up the look.
 
Holland,



Is that process using a rotery or PC? Would it matter either way? Also being blind would there be a prefered device so not to damage paint?



I can't tell if I would be burning through paint. I've read that you can't damage paint with a PC. Also is OPT an abbreviation?
 
Here's what I would do.



Buy some Meguiars #66 by the gallon. Apply it via PC with a polishing pad @speed5. Wipe off with MF and be done. Obvioulsy washing and claying would come first.



No need to even pull out the rotary, especially if you are selling 3 year old used cars to the public.



If you want to add a dedicated polish, look into some Meguiars #80 speedglaze, then top with a bulk sealant/wax.



Cheap, easy, your cars will look better than 90% of lots, and anyone can do it.
 
Ohhh, no offense meant, but damn, a blind detailer... I would have never thought I'd "see" the day!!



Friggin good on ya, I'm impressed! :waxing: :waxing:



#66 is a very good product, but I don't know about the durability...
 
Don't laugh but i have met blind hunters. In most cases they are a better shot than me.

There are varring degrees of blindness.



I would say, wash, clay, PC probably with megs 66 as mentioned.

I would use Pb's Restorer on exterior, engine,trunk trim. and natrual look on interior trim and leather seats.
 
Thanks for the info guys! 2 more questions though, does claying a car improve it visually or just remove tiny particles that you can't really see anyway? MEG's #66, is that a polish and sealant similar to Klasse AIO?



AS far as being blind, I could see pretty good when I was younger and loved cleaning and waxing cars. Now if we have a slow Saturday, I'll have someone bring a car in the shop and I will wax it by hand. Right now I'm not polishing just using FMJ by hand. I personally bought FNJ because I heard it doesn't leave white marks on trim if it gets on it and being blind I'm sure it does!



For doing every vehicle on the lot I wouldn't use FNJ because of cost.
 
I think claying does in many ways visually improve the look. As it is part of the whole process. How many customers run their hand accross a hood or fender. That lil bit of tactile feel translates into a look of sorts. Removing the grit will help in the polishing stage too. Clay is not really expensive, nor time consuming when you evaluate the process as a whole. IMHO.
 
Thanks again for the information.



I have a friend coming over Saturday to show me how to use a PC. I'll be doing a 2005 black SSR. Hopefully I can use it!
 
A blind detailer may seem unusual, but I know blind mechanics, blind builders, and blind secretaries. I have two blind brothers in-law. I can drive around with one of them on a path of my choosing for an hour or better, and he can tell you within a block of where he is at any given point in time! I'd bet he could be a detailer, although the rotary might be a little much. Good luck on your business Auto DLR.
 
Sorry to bring up old thred but I have 2 more questions:



What product is recommended as a topper to MEGS #66?



Also how long does a claybar last? I've heard people say they keep the same bar for years and others say you can do about 7 cars.



Thanks again!
 
I'm no expert, but an unused clay bar should last some time. As for a used clay bar, though, it'd depend on how contaminated it is after claying a car. If your unable to find an uncontaminated portion of clay after kneading, it's probably time to dispose of it. You wouldn't want to be rubbing it over your paint.



For myself, I usually rip a 1/4 of a bar off and use that to detail my car and then throw it away.
 
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