Unsticking metalic and dirt particles on paint.

S

saralee

New member
How do you go about getting rid of stuck particles – black dirt, small metal flakes – on the car paint? I hand-washed my car for the first time recently after a long winter and I can feel with my finger all the contaminants there have stuck to the car paint.



Some spots I got off with a clay bar and some just wouldn't come off. Some spots that the embedded dirt came off of have turned slightly brown – is it oxidation or rust? What is the best way to tackle these tiny little brown dots?



I have a PC coming my way in a few days. Would that help?



Products I have are Meguiars claybar, Klasse AIO and Collinite 476.
 
I'd try fresh clay. For a couple of years I resisted buying a medium grade clay bar. When I finally shelled out the $25, I asked myself why I didn't do it a couple of years earlier.



FWIW I use Clay Magic, but there are certainly other fine brands out there. Good luck...
 
I had a similar problem during my spring detail - clay got nearly all of it but there were a few stubborn rust spots (brake dust) that came off when I polished. I know it wasn't true rust because I had quite a bit stuck to the plastic trim on the rear.

I probably could have got it off with the clay if I had pushed it further.

In your case, I'd give the clay another go and see if you can get them off.
 
Everyone: Thanks for the replies and suggestions.



abbeysdad: When you polished the rust spots, did the rust that stuck to the paint cause swirl marks when the pad went over the rust spots? I thought one should/would only hand or machine polish when the surface is completely free of surface contamination.



My thinking is to take out as much with the clay bar, and then use the PC with Klasse AIO to clean the surface before waxing. I am just too afraid to use the PC on the paint when there are still rust spots and nibs stuck to the paint. Am I over worring or is there something else I can do?
 
saralee said:
...[does]..the rust that stuck to the paint cause swirl marks when the pad went over the rust spots? I thought one should/would only hand or machine polish when the surface is completely free of surface contamination...
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Sometimes you have to be pretty extreme about kneading/replacing the clay, as in after almost every brief contact with contaminated paint.



..My thinking is to take out as much with the clay bar, and then use the PC with Klasse AIO to clean the surface before waxing. I am just too afraid to use the PC on the paint when there are still rust spots and nibs stuck to the paint. Am I over worring or is there something else I can do?
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If the contamination is really severe your fears might be well-founded.



I myself have had good results with the AutoInt ABC system; I clay while the acidic "B" step is dwelling (yeah, this kills the clay quite quickly, have plenty on hand). FWIW, the ABC isn't nearly as scary as it might sound. As long as you work in the shade and pay attention to what you're doing it oughta work well.



Honestly, this sounds like a textbook example of when ABC + clay is the best solution.
 
You're right Accumulator - classic example of when you'd need to do both processes to achieve the best results. When it's this bad, each step compliments each another.
 
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