Ugh, Jeep paint!

M

MongooseGA

New member
I was just curious...



Does anyone know if the paint of Wrangler TJ is a single stage? The paint , especially on my hood, feels very thin. Much thinner than say my mom's Chrysler. Is it also possible it's had its share of wet sanding? There's not much OP on the hood compared to the doors (Which is terrible!) .



It's also had its share of touch up work done on the hood from before we bought it. The touch up paint has kind of deteriorated into what looks like permanent bird poo, quite deeply etched into my hood. I can't see primer or metal though because the "what-was-once" paint is still there.



Would another wet sand be possible, or would a repaint of the hood be required?





Thanks :bounce
 
I donâ€â„¢t know anything specifically about Jeeps but in general you should look at the manufacturerâ€â„¢s data plates, under the hood, on the doorjambs, etc. Somewhere on one of them you should find the factory paint codes for the car.



With the codes you be able to look up what the finish is. Any paint shop should be able to set you up with an appropriate match.





PC.
 
If you take a white or light colored cloth/pad with some polish to a spot somewhere on the jeep and some color transfers to the cloth/pad then it's a single stage paint.



Another way is to find the paint code and then check this site, it will list if the paint is ss or cc:



http://www.paintscratch.com/



Do the touched up areas youâ€â„¢re talking about look like spots that were touched up by a previous owner (maybe never sanded flush or done properly) or by a body shop? How large are the spots? If they are small, old spots touched up by a previous owner there may a way to address them, but if your paint seems thin then you need to be very careful before you attempt to wet-sand.
 
John,



I just looked at my hood today. It looks like a very fine white line, kind of squiggly, and in the shape of what was the touched up area. I guess I got the "bird poo" texture off of it when I polished the hood (DACP, orange pad).I had to push my jaw shut. I'm thinking it's the early stage of clear coat faliure. If I can get a picture soon, I will. This ruined my whole day.
 
Pic. The only one that came out well enough to see. It's a little blurry, but I think you can get the idea. There are maybe 5-6 little spots on my hood with this, no bigger than 1"x1" . All an enclosed ~circle. Slightly raised, to a slightly sharp point. The points are only fractions of centimeters, but you can feel it when you feel that area of the paint. Maybe I can get a few better pictures tomorrow after school in the sunlight .

DSCF0034.jpg
 
Buick_guy said:
A US person metric measurements. HOLY ****!
Click to expand...



Inches are too big, millimeters are too small.



I have to use the metric system for science. I hate science. I guess, if it's not talking about the buffing particles breaking down the top layer of clear coat, and then the sealant checmically removing oxidation, then I don't care about science class. :o



Eh?
 
the paint is pretty soft on jeeps



the source of your problem most likely is the lack of hood insulation and a 4.0l engine that runs at 210* which takes its toll on the hood paint
 
'Preciate it.



Any reccomendations for extra cooling in the actualy engine bay? We're already looking into some form of a cool air intake if we can find one.
 
Why can't I see new posts?



I got the e-mail telling me Buick_Guy and Elliot Smith replied, but i can't see their posts... :nixweiss
 
I dunno Glenn, itâ€â„¢s kind of hard to make out much from the picture. You mentioned it was areas that were touched up. Are these spots where touch up paint was used? If not does it seem like the areas that are raised up from the paint could be some hard residue left from something that got on the paint?



If you have a good body shop in the area Iâ€â„¢m sure theyâ€â„¢d take a look at it for you and tell you what they think. If worse-comes-to-worse (and it is clear coat failure) a hood repaint shouldnâ€â„¢t be too expensive if you can find a reasonable shop, or a good body man who does works on the side.



If you get some better pictures you may want to post them in another forum to get more exposure and ideas.
 
Yeah, I apologize for the poor quality picture. The sun just started going down when i took them, and only the one had any of the defect show up. The spot in the /\ picture is what i believe to be touch up. On other parts of the hood there are a few little groups of white lines, made of segments about a millimeter long, that form little circles. Each little line has an extremely slight raise on it, and a little 'valley' in between each little raise. It almost looks like a ring worm or something. Apparently they have been in the paint since we bought it (bought with only 26,000 miles! This paint has to have gone through hell!). We know a great paint/body shop that we've used before. I'm sure the guy would actually teach me to spray the hood well and might even take the labor cost off.



Dunno if it means anything, but the car had originally been a rental car in Hawaii. :o



Would it be more practical just to keep this hood and use it for trail days, and buy a new hood of the same color for every day?
 
well the 4.0L is always going to run at 205*-210* regardless. your best bet is to buy a hoodliner (or snag one off a junkyard grand cherokee and trim to fit) to intall on the underside of the hood.



if you got questions about jeep mods or something just shoot me a PM
 
Thanks, I might soon.



We're looking into birthday presents for me (yay!) and they include lift kit, wheels, tires, bumpers, tire rack, and I'm paying for a new stereo.



You dont know of a company called Rubicon, do you? All they do is jeep stuff. Apparently they make a 3.5" lift kit that my dad liked. I wasn't w/him when he went shopping...
 
yeah www.rubiconexpress.com

they make good stuff. half my suspension is rubicon express



the problem your going to run into with lifting a TJ over 3" or so is the rear drive shaft. you will have to buy what is called a SYE .. slip yoke eliminator which modifies the rear drive shaft and the output shaft on the transfer case. the new driveshaft should be about $200 i would go w/ jess @ www.highangledriveline.com for the shaft

the transfer case portion of the SYE i would go with www.jbconversions.com or advanced adapters.com. should be about $200 as well. both these require disassembly of the transfercase

RE claims to have a SYE kit, but it is mediocre IMHO as it uses the stock transfercase shaft, not a HD unit like in the other kits. the RE SYE makes it so you dont have to take apart the transfercase to install it though



i usually went with jeremy @ www.crawltech.com for RE stuff

you can aslo try dirk @ www.dpgoffroad.com
 
oh yeah if you plan on wheelin with 33" tire or larger you should be considering a D44 rear axle if you currently have a D35





D44
 

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I have no clue what the rubicon kit comes with specifically. Apprently it had everything needed for the transfer case and everything. If I dont plan on anything more than moderate offroad trails, would the new shafts be necessary? I have no plans to do any kind of rock climbing or really anything close.



Which axle does a TJ come with stock?
 
MongooseGA said:
.......We know a great paint/body shop that we've used before. I'm sure the guy would actually teach me to spray the hood well and might even take the labor cost off.......

........Would it be more practical just to keep this hood and use it for trail days, and buy a new hood of the same color for every day?
Click to expand...

That would be a great learning experience, shooting paint is actually very enjoyable. I'd put it on the same level as detailing, you get to see the satisfaction of your work and learn to appreciate the skills involved.



Since he's someone you know and trust it may be a good idea to let him take a look at it, you can tell so much more by looking and feeling than you can pictures.



Can't say about buying another hood. Depends on what one would cost, if you'd want the hassle of swapping it out, and how extreme your "trail days" are.
 
the tj either come with a D35 or D44 std. i dont know what you have, you will have to check what is under yours



the kit probably comes with a transfer case drop. it might be enough for the kit but it is simply a bandaide fix. the reason for the driveshaft modification is for driveshaft vibrations due to the steeper driveshaft angle



the front drive shaft will be fine as is
 
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