Type of paint on Mercedes 380, 1982 vintage

RANDAL

IOWA BOY
Just got a detail with correction on a Benz. Have NOT seen it yet. Was just purchased by at least 3rd owner. Over 100,000 miles from what I was told. Would like knowledge of what to expect as how soft or hard is the paint, or depth of clear coat or if single stage. I use poorboys product and will start with PP, and may need to work to more aggresive products from there. I have 2 formulas of PP, PP2, PWC, PWS, both SSR1, SSR 2.5 and 3, EX, EXP,WD, BH, 3 NattysQD+, probably forgot something too.Also orange, white and black pads for both UDM and rotary. Any comments on what to expect? Thanks guys!!:dcrules
 
If it's the original paint then it's probably a single stage paint and should be very easy to work on unless it's white as explained here,


The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us



If it is a colored paint, that is anything besides white and if it is a single stage paint then you're going to want to use some kind of polish that will revive and bring out the full richness of color as just compounding and waxing won't tend to do this as well as using a polish with some kind of oil in it.

This is one of the most dramatic before and after details I've been involved with, I didn't do the entire thing as it was an extreme makeover at Megs Garage and for these I would usually be more or less the team leader and help others learn how to restore antique paint or learn how to work by hand or machine and such was the case with this car twice.


Before

2450MLBefore1.jpg


The above Mercedes-Benz has sat out in the SoCal sun for over a year since losing it's covered garage parking space to antique furniture. We don't know what it looked like before it was moved outside but since that time, as you can see by the areas of the finish that have turned white, the finish has greatly deteriorated through oxidation. This is a single stage paint.


2450MLBefore2.jpg


2450MLBefore3.jpg


2450MLBefore4.jpg




Here's the finish after only washing the car with a Meguiar's car wash soap.

2450MLBefore5.jpg




It's already looking much better. Remember, Meguiar's car washes are non-detergent, they will safely clean a car without stripping and dulling the finish. They also contain conditioning ingredients to help maintain your car's finish.

After washing, the finish on this Mercedes-Benz is thoroughly clean, perfectly prepared for the next steps in the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle. Best of all, we washed and cleaned this car without using a harsh dish washing detergents like so many people on other discussion forums are always recommending. In fact, as dry and oxidized as this paint is, washing this neglected single stage paint with a strong detergent soap would only act to further dull and dry the paint out. Avoid the dish washing soap when washing your pride and joy because it's working backwards in the paint polishing process assuming your goal is to create a beautiful finish.


2450MLBefore6.jpg


2450MLBefore7.jpg




After washing this Mercedes-Benz we Meguiarized it!


After

2450SLfinished2.jpg


2450SLfinished4.jpg


2450SLfinished5.jpg


2450SLfinished3.jpg


2450SLfinished1.jpg




My biggest concern when taking on jobs like the one you have is

"How many people have gone before me and what have they used"

In other words, how much paint have all the people who have detailed this car since 1982 removed?

So be very careful on edges and high points and all the top surfaces where some "bubba" can easily stand and run a rotary buffer for no good reason. That is, usually the tops of fenders, the hood and the trunk lid will get buffed more often because it's so easy to stand next to the car and buff on these panels whereas for the doors and sides of the fenders you either sit your but on the ground, (that's no fun), or bend over or kneel down, get the idea?

I usually look at all the corners of things like the rear portions of the hood and look for burn-through spots and if discovered, show the owner, so he know and also so he knows you didn't do it.

Even take a picture of burnt through areas.

Do a Test Spot, that is dial-in a system that works perfect and then duplicate that process over the rest of the car.

And... have fun!

My favorite paint to polish is original and single stage paints and it's becoming more and more rare to get to do this kind of work.

So have fun and don't worry about the pigment coming off the car and onto your buffing pads and microfibers, it's normal and even if it stains your microfibers, after you wash them they will still work just fine.

:)
 
Thanks Mike! Now we just have to break you of the Megs products. In the 3rd photo, what is the older car? Ive got a 1950 PACKARD to do soon too.
 
Thanks Mike! Now we just have to break you of the Megs products. In the 3rd photo, what is the older car? Ive got a 1950 PACKARD to do soon too.

That was a 1964 Bentley we removed the swirls out of for the 2004 Irvine Concours d'Elegance.

Here's the link to the thread with a few more pictures, this was another extreme makeover with a team of people wanting to learn how to polish paint.

There were never any 'after' pictures because when we finished the car it was dark and I drove 100 miles home to Apple Valley.

The owner was supposed to get us some 'after' pictures from the car show but never did. He did take a first place in his class but again, no pictures.

Whenever I do this kind of work now one of the priorities is to try to find people with cool cars that are also forum savvy or you don't get anything out of all your hard work.

It's like there's forum car guys and non-forum car guys and everything is more powerful from the guys that know how to,

  • Join a forum
  • Reply to a post
  • Start a thread
  • Upload pictures to a gallery
  • Insert the pictures into a message
That's a lot to ask from car guys as old as my dad but a normal everyday activity for young guys.


:)
 
Back
Top