It was really humid but cool and i had all kinds of problems today. It kept caking up the pad and spitting off in balls of polish. I changed the pad twice and brushed the pad after each pass and nothing worked then i tried mixxing some optimum AIO thought that might help but nothing. It just wouldnt flash and i had trouble getting it off the paint even with the IPA wipe down. It was the only polishes i had with me so i stuggled all day long. Ive had it be tempermental before but nothing like this,,has anyone had any luck mixxing something in when this happens? I need to find another polish pair to use when something like this happens any ideas?
trouble with 106 and sip
- Thread starter mixxer
- Start date
SuperBee364
New member
Man, that's frustrating when those two start acting up. They're my favorite polishes, but they can be so aggravating.
When SIP starts acting up, I:
1. Add some 106ff to it
2. Do a thorough IPA wipedown
3. Spread it out very evenly. About 500 RPM or so for at least three passes. If it's not *completely* even, it'll make your life hard.
When 106 acts up (which doesn't seem to be very often, thank heavens):
1. Do the same things as above, except the adding polish, of course.
Most of the time when 106 acts up, it means that the clear on the car is just too soft to use 106 on. Changing to a very soft finishing pad will sometimes help, too.
There's only been a couple times where doing the above things still wasn't enough to be able to use them. Worth trying, anyway.
When SIP starts acting up, I:
1. Add some 106ff to it
2. Do a thorough IPA wipedown
3. Spread it out very evenly. About 500 RPM or so for at least three passes. If it's not *completely* even, it'll make your life hard.
When 106 acts up (which doesn't seem to be very often, thank heavens):
1. Do the same things as above, except the adding polish, of course.
Most of the time when 106 acts up, it means that the clear on the car is just too soft to use 106 on. Changing to a very soft finishing pad will sometimes help, too.
There's only been a couple times where doing the above things still wasn't enough to be able to use them. Worth trying, anyway.
evolutionwc3
Member
Pretty much the same answer as SupeBee but I've also had good luck putting a few drops of Ultrafina on the pad along with SIP.
It's a great polish but it can definitely drive you crazy at times.
It's a great polish but it can definitely drive you crazy at times.
imported_rydawg1
New member
Try IP.
For some reason which ever lsp was used on the car previous does not agree with SIP in damp conditions. I've used SIP on cars when it was raining, cold, damp, humid with no issues, but every now and then will get a car that it will act up on. The lubes in it will not allow it to break down certain old lsp's which have high silicone contents in it.
I did do a test on a beater car. I polished the hood with SIP and it worked perfect with no issues at all. I took it to a spray wash place and power washed it and used the spray wax only on the hood. The next day which was nice, I used SIP on the hood and it skipped, spit and swore at me. It would not break through the barrier of the cheap spray wax from the car wash. This test has showed me 100% proof that it does not play well with silicones.
They need to put a warning at car washes in what harm that stuff can do.
For some reason which ever lsp was used on the car previous does not agree with SIP in damp conditions. I've used SIP on cars when it was raining, cold, damp, humid with no issues, but every now and then will get a car that it will act up on. The lubes in it will not allow it to break down certain old lsp's which have high silicone contents in it.
I did do a test on a beater car. I polished the hood with SIP and it worked perfect with no issues at all. I took it to a spray wash place and power washed it and used the spray wax only on the hood. The next day which was nice, I used SIP on the hood and it skipped, spit and swore at me. It would not break through the barrier of the cheap spray wax from the car wash. This test has showed me 100% proof that it does not play well with silicones.
They need to put a warning at car washes in what harm that stuff can do.
SpoiledMan
New member
rydawg said:
I agree completely with this.
imported_Picus
New member
It's the LSP previously used, in my experience. Humidity can definitely play a role; but I find like 99% of the time SIP acts up it's on a car where the owner regularly waxes it. Normally I just say screw it and move to a different polish but if I am determined I'll isa:water or prepsol (well, actually Acrysol) the car.
imported_rydawg1
New member
When using QD's, just make sure they have no silicones in them. I never use QD's anymore for lubrication as it may give false impressions of the actual correction and may still act up.
SuperBee364
New member
rydawg said:
Ya see? Rydawg, you're still teaching me new tricks all the time. I never thought of that.
BTW, that new reflection shot you have in your Avatar is just sick. Thought you should know.
HowardPearson
New member
how long are people working SIP? At 1500 rpms w/ purple wool I cant get it to last more than 30ish senconds, and at that point it doesn't appear to be fully broken down.
imported_Picus
New member
I believe SB has mentioned that with foamed wool 30 seconds is quite normal.
imported_rydawg1
New member
Picus, it's good to see you back!
SuperBee364 said:Man, that's frustrating when those two start acting up. They're my favorite polishes, but they can be so aggravating.
When SIP starts acting up, I:
1. Add some 106ff to it
2. Do a thorough IPA wipedown
3. Spread it out very evenly. About 500 RPM or so for at least three passes. If it's not *completely* even, it'll make your life hard.
When 106 acts up (which doesn't seem to be very often, thank heavens):
1. Do the same things as above, except the adding polish, of course.
Most of the time when 106 acts up, it means that the clear on the car is just too soft to use 106 on. Changing to a very soft finishing pad will sometimes help, too.
There's only been a couple times where doing the above things still wasn't enough to be able to use them. Worth trying, anyway.
106 was drying up on the paint over the weekend and I wasn't working too long according to the advice I have received from you and others. Wiping up the dried up 106 with a MF and IPA was a PITB so I would just go over the section one more time quickly with the broken down polish and then wipe it up. Weird. I wonder if the insane humidity we had over the past few days contributed?
imported_Picus
New member
rydawg said:
:bigups:bigups:thx:heelclick
:woot::2thumbs:
Rob Tomlin
Lotus Exige S
mixxer said:
Wow, that is frustrating! :think:
duke727 said:
Picus said:
As a rotary newbie: with only 30 seconds working time, do you add more polish and work the same section for another 30 seconds, or is 30 seconds generally enough per section?
And how big of a section do you work at a time?
SuperBee364
New member
duke727 said:
Picus said:
Yeah, if I'm using straight SIP (not cut with 106), I'll get 30 seconds working time out of it with any wool pad. The first time I used SIP with wool, I thought that I was going to have some serious compounding haze and/or holograms, because I wasn't able to get the polish to go clear before it started to dry up. In low humidity conditions, this is normal for SIP. I get three, and very occasionally four, passes out of it before it's done. And even though the poilsh isn't clear, it still leaves a very nice finish.
Lately I've been adding some 106ff to the SIP to increase the working time and get it to fiinish down nicer. In a four ounce bottle, I add three ounces of SIP and about a half an ounce of 106. It's a good mixture of adding working time and better finish, but it does reduce SIP's correcting ability some.
The finish SIP leaves when cut with 106 and used on a purple foamed wool pad is just amazing. You can pretty much skip the compounding marks/hologram step, and go right to a very fine finishing polish like PO85RD on most clear coats.
Thanks for the info, Picus and Rydawg... that explains why the IPA wipedown helps most of the time when 106 and SIP are acting up. Rydawg's other suggestion of making sure that they are *completely* even on the paint really helps alot, too.
I usually do three passes at about 500 rpm to spread, then three passes at 1.2k, at which time I'm done if it's not cut with 106. If it is cut, I then do at least another three passes below 1k rpm. This usually results in the polish going clear, and looking very oily as if I'd just used straight 106. Adding the 106 really cuts down on the dusting, too.
SuperBee364
New member
bert31 said:
A bit under 2 oz of straight SIP. 3 oz if it's cut with 106.
Usually four full oz of 106 per car. Unlike SIP, 106 works best when you use quite a bit of it. Not so much that it slings, but still more than SIP. SIP is 4 pea sized blobs on the pad (make the blobs a bit bigger if you're using SIP cut with 106). 106 is a ring of polish all the way around the pad. Works well for me, at least.
I know four oz seems like alot, but remember these numbers are for wool. You need more polish when using wool, especially when using finishing wool.
Cut these amounts by about half if you're using foam.