To rustproof or not-01 Impala 40K miles

S

Striker

Active member
Today I picked up a very clean, low mileage, one owner 01 LS impala, fully loaded, etc.



I got a peek under neath and it seems that some surface rust is starting to appear at the seems and the odd nook and crannies.



I do plan on keeping the car for a while without a doubt, especially with the mileage. Should I get her oil sprayed by Krown (Canadian Rust proofing company)



What I'd like to know is the real difference between undercoating and rust proofing and if it's beneficial to do both. I know undercoating gives you that nice, solid black look underneath.
 
Striker- yeah, I'd do it. I *DO* do it, and the next candidates will be my '01 Crown Vic and whatever new beater-dog-hauler I pick up (probably a GM of some kind).



Undecoating is less oriented towards rust control, even though it'll sorta work similarly in the best case. IMO you need true *rust control* stuff. FWIW, I like stuff from Auto Body Repair Tools Shop, Auto Body Supplies, Automotive & Car Restoration - Eastwood , http://www.autoint.com , and https://www.amsoil.com .



I use Eastwood's black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust on parts that show, it dries "clean" and almost looks like black chassis paint. Not at all finicky, ultra user-friendly IME. IMO it's *exactly* what you're after. I would treat the visible rust with a rust converter first, and also Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, and then spray on the Anti-Rust.



I use the AutoInt's Anti-rust Compound for areas that don't show. It's the icky-looking yellowish stuff, but oh man does it work well.



I use Amsoil's Heavy Duty Metal Protector for electrical connections and fasteners that might need undone (including stuff like under-vehicle spare tire hardware). Good stuff also, but it's not the cleanest product to apply...lots of misty overspray that's a PIA to clean up (use a solvent).



*I* prefer the above methods over oil sprays. Cleaner IME, and better looking for those of us who care about such stuff.



And yeah, I've used these products on older, already-rusting vehicles and they worked very, very well over a long enough timeframe that I'm confident about my opinions. You do have to do some touchups from time to time, but I believe that to be true of any such stuff.
 
Undercoating goes over "rust proofing" and its primary purpose is sound deadening and help to protect the "rust proofing" product, if any (heck paint could be called that). Undercoating or Rust Proofing should not be used over rust, it can makes things worse. The rust must be dealt with first. You may want to try an rust encapsulator/converter such as the products from POR-15 or Eastwood
 
I was going to get a wire brush and spray all the effected spots with MetalReady which is POR15's rust converter than apply POR15 itself over top.



After this, I will most likely take it to Krown Rust Control. These guys get into places that I couldn't even think of. Inside the rockers, in the doors and trunk lid. They even go to as far the removal of tail lights, etc.
 
Striker- IIRC (and it *has* been a while since I used POR-15), the Metal Ready isn't really a rust converter. Still, if you use the Marine Clean (is that the name?) and the Metal Ready, then the POR-15 oughta work well...it usually does but it's just a bit too finicky for me (heh heh, I prefer stuff that's truly "Accumulator-proof" ;) ).



BTW, I think you could do at least as thorough a job when it comes to getting in the tight spots. If you have a compressor, you can even buy the pro application gun if you think that's necessary. While I certainly understand why you'd have Krown do it (zillions of reasons!), I DIY it and I'm 100% confident that I do at least as good a job as any pro (and I've worked in a shop with a *good* rustproofing guy). Getting in those seemingly inaccessible areas is easier than you might think.



Sorry for the hard-sell, I just really, *REALLY* like how the three products I suggested work. Especially that Black Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust stuff from Eastwood. Makes the whole undercarriage look sooooo good while providing great protection.



Heh heh, OK...I'll quit beating you over the head with my opinion now :D
 
Ohh man....decisions decisions. I've gotta slow down before I have a heart attack. OK....



First thing's first. I think tonight after work I'm going down to the local car wash, brining a pad with me so I can lay on my back and go to down with their pressure washer (it's not going to take parts off the car)



I will consider the black stuff Accumulator. Here are some questions for ya



1.Is it an oil base or a solid?

2. Can I apply it with a brush? (really don't wanna be buying a gun, etc)

3. Thie black stuff you speak of, will this be my last step?

4. What do you recommend for neutralizing the rust before the black stuff gets applied?



Your inputs are always welcome, your not beating me over the head :D
 
Striker said:
First thing's first. I think tonight after work I'm going down to the local car wash, brining a pad with me so I can lay on my back and go to down with their pressure washer (it's not going to take parts off the car)..
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Yeah, start with a good cleaning :xyxthumbs



I will consider the black stuff Accumulator. Here are some questions for ya



1.Is it an oil base or a solid?
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Not sure if it's truly "oil base" but it's like a paint that doesn't *quite* dry 100% (doesn't stay icky-tacky forever though, just for a while, so don't worry about that).

2. Can I apply it with a brush? (really don't wanna be buying a gun, etc)
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Yeah, but you oughta just buy it in spray cans for most of the job. I did use a brush when I needed lots of control, works OK.



3. Thie black stuff you speak of, will this be my last step?
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Yeah. You treat the rust with converter. Then you paint on the Rust Encapsulator. You can stop there if you like and it'll look just like good satin/flat black paint. Or you can coat with the Black Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust, which also looks like (thick) matte/flat black paint. OR...you can just do the Black Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust and it'll usually work OK by itself even if it *does* seem like half-@$$ing it to me. Heh heh, I've done it that way and didn't really feel guilty or anything ;)



If you want to do the minimum, go with the Black H-DA-R.

4. What do you recommend for neutralizing the rust before the black stuff gets applied?
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Yeah, the more you do the better things are likely to be long-term. But again, it can be a matter of degree.



Your inputs are always welcome, your not beating me over the head :D
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Heh heh, OK, roger that :D This is kinda a timely topic for me as I might be doing it on one of my project cars, and/or on a new beater I'm probably gonna get to replace my MPV.
 
I'm debating If I should power wash the car today or a couple of days before I'm actually ready to do the full 3 steps.



The other concerns I have with these steps is weather or not I need to give them time to dry/cure. If so, how much time would be enough.



Luckily, I will have acess to a hoist.
 
Striker said:
I'm debating If I should power wash the car today or a couple of days before I'm actually ready to do the full 3 steps...
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I'd do it now, you might want to give it a few tries anyhow.

The other concerns I have with these steps is weather or not I need to give them time to dry/cure. If so, how much time would be enough.
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I don't think that'll be a problem, the drying times are pretty fast and if you just do the rust converter and H-DA-R you can drive it almost right away (longer waiting is better but not critical). Even if you do all the three steps it won't be a loooong wait.



Luckily, I will have acess to a hoist.
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Lucky you, glad to hear it. It's jobs like this that make me miss the one in my old shop.
 
Scratch the idea regarding eastwood products Accumulator....50 freakin bucks to ship two aerosol cans....nah thanks :S
 
Striker said:
Scratch the idea regarding eastwood products Accumulator....50 freakin bucks to ship two aerosol cans....nah thanks :S
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Understood. But you'd want more than two cans anyhow ;)



Find something similar, I bet the Eastwood stuff isn't all *that* unique.



Wonder how the shipping is on the AutoInt stuff...



But just in case anybody else can benefit:



Would it be crazy to add another oil based rust inhibitor over the HDAR?
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It's neither necessary nor, IMO, a good idea. The H-DA-R is really great stuff that doesn't need any help, and you'd want to be able to touch it up from time to time (say, if a shops lift pads scrape it off or somesuch).



Too bad about that shipping, I'm simply *nuts* about that product!
 
Yeah thats Canada for ya. What I will most likely end up doing is going down the POR 15 and metal ready route before taking it to Krown.



I'm goin to the local hardware shop and buying a good steel brush to remove all the loose rust, apply metal ready+satin black POR15 than off to Krown.
 
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