To dampen or not that is the question

SVR

SVR

Dream Machines
With all menzerna polishes, is it best to simply apply the 6 inch line and buff away or must I dampen the pad and maybe the surface



Mizzuri used PO85RD without any water and wow, what a result

I am finding myself having to dampen the pad half way through doing a panel otherwise the product won't completely break down and dissappear



Start at 600, up to 1000 then 1200-1350 and back down to 900 and all done is my method

Did the hood last night with FP II and VM, RMG, YCW - WOW
 
I dont spray anything on the menzerna polishes because they get runny real quick with even one spritz to "prime" the pad.
 
I use Menzerna a ton (probably about a quart a week between the different polishes), so I think I speak from good experience. With FFII I sometimes prime the pad (barely) with a spritz or two to get a little longer working time, though it really isn't necessary. With IP I never prime, as it is already quite wet and works for enought time to break down completely. With PowerGloss I add wetness to the polish by adding about 20% of another, more wet compound (lately Optimum's Hyper Compound)...this seems to create the ideal consistency. With the right pad, I can easily run in the 2000 RPM range (or higher) with zero splatter.



BTW, you shouldn't have any problem getting the polishes to "break down" with a rotary. And feel free to turn the RPMs up once you get more comfortable with the rotary, this will give you more polishing action in less time.



You'll have to excuse me...I just learned how to take pics with my phone and upload them here...but this was with Menzerna PG and then #9 the night before last:



lexustrunkbefore.jpg




After polishing

lexustrunkafter.jpg
 
Did you say 2000 RPM with the rotary??? That's way too fast for most any product and out of Menzerna's recommended speed for sure. Keep it around 1000-1200 RPM. I do find that a spritz is good with PG but not necessary with IP or lighter and just a bad idea with the "nano" polishes.
 
My giving one (and only one) light "mist" to a clean pad has nothing to do with my polishes...I am anal and dont like setting a completely dry pad on my paint.
 
I hear you spoildman. I don't always run at 2000, but I usually hang out in the 1500 to 1800 RPM range. Without a doubt, I can get more done faster at 1800 then I can at 1200. As long as you know what you are doing and don't generate too much heat, it isn't a problem; and the LC pads I use generate very little heat if moved around properly. I've used about every pad made (literally) and some pads generate too much heat when ran at high RPMs, so one must excercise caution when turning up the volume. I think I'd go cazy if I compounded an entire car without exceeding 1200 RPMs. But everybody has there own thing...I've simply found that operating at higher RPMs allows me to get the job done faster, and I haven't had any problems yet.



Also, one thing people have to keep in mind when considering recomended speeds - these recomendations were made with 9" pads in mind. The edge of a 9" pad travels a heck of a lot faster than a 6" pad at equivalent RPMs.
 
I dunno, when I'm working on a $90k BMW I tend to want to take my time. I'd really hate to have to repaint even a single panel trying to save a few minutes.
 
With you spoiledman

All I have ever done are two mists of water on a pad



Tried all products without water and worked sensationally

Worried a little about dry buffing problems but so far no probs

As usual your feedback is very helpful
 
That's what makes autopia the best community online



Would there be some polishes that used without water would cause dry buffing marks or make the pad chatter?
 
With a PC, no. With a rotary it depends on so many things that it's hard to answer that. The more I work with Menzerna polishes, the more I like to.
 
Spoildman...I suppose you are right. When I'm doing a $150,000 exotic I tend to slow down automatically, now that I think about it. That is my biggest nightmare, somehow doing damage requiring repainting - not so much with respect to the money, but my reputation and ego :bawling:



IP and PG are nothing short of amazing with regard to their ability to cut and then finish up glossy as heck. IP cuts more than 2.5, yet can usually be used as the last step on anything but black. PG cuts equivalent to SSR 3 and #84 but have much more uniform and small abrasive particles that finishes up MUCH better (these other polishes seem to leave intermittent deep swirls gashes that result from having a few oversize abrasive particles in the mix (same concept as the Unigrit sandpaper - you must polish out deep enough to remove the deepest mark). Of course, due to the large number of small abrasives in PG, it dusts like heck, requiring more cleanup time. If I don't need a bunch of cut, I go instead with Optimum Hyper Compound.
 
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