Tips For Using M105, First Timer

B

bigbobv

New member
I know we had a robust debate about this a few days ago, but this weekend I had a bad experience myself with the mystery haze/smear problem on black cars (I'm sure it's on all cars, just can't see it).



Over the last few weeks, I have been applying Blitz over some previously applied coats of SG (after using AIO the first time). This time I notice that areas I thought were wiped clean were still showing smears. When I went back over the spot I found that there was essentially no way to get it to go away -- it would follow the direction of the wipe and was obviously more visible when it was at right angles to the sun.



I use all cotton towels, washed properly.



It looked so bad at one point the next day that I took some QD figuring I would really clean it up and the smears were worse than ever.



At this point, I am prepared to raise the heresy that just maybe Blitz (and perhaps other carnauba waxes) really should not be applied over the top of a polymer/acrylic. It seems to me, as alayman, that the wax floating over the top of the polymer/acrylic so the wax never adhere and is susceptible to being disturbed by wiping.



As it is, I'm getting a litttle disturbed myself with all the wiping.



Any further thoughts on this (about the wax, not me). Does Ron or someone with technical background have any ideas?
 
at least when I experienced this, I didn't have a blitz topper. Just AIO, and 2 layers of SG.



I think I have a couple things going on though: there is a hazy area on one door that looks *nasty* when the light hits it just right, looks like a smear of something. Unfortunately I noticed it in a parking lot and haven't been able to get the sun to move into the right spot so I could see it at home to try to fix it :D



Also there is a bunch of either scratches or haze on my bumper, that I tried to wipe off with a miracle towel, and now they're definitely scrathces. Maybe I put too much pressure on when I tried to wipe them off... :( I'm 99% sure they weren't there before the klasse process, but I don't see them anywhere else, so I'm assuming there was some dust or grit on there when I was applying.
 
I don't know how may coats of Blitz you have done but it does build and that can become a problem with streaking. Also, alot of the QDs' have silicone to give a bit of a kick to the shine but this can compound the streaking. Sounds like you have too much product residue on the car.
 
I haven't applied a blitz topper. So far, I have multiple apps of AIO on different areas of the car, and one coat of SG on the whole thing, and I also have this hazing issue.



I'm really starting to believe that it's the weather that causes the problem. I think the SG absorbs moisture. People like Don, who live in dry heat for most of the year may not notice this, whereas people who live in places with varying temperatures are seeing this problem.



I dunno...
 
I have a new car and did the two step Klasse and was not at all happy with the appearance until I put a coat of carnauba on top.
 
Over the last few weeks here in Cincy the temp has varied from the 20's to the 70's and I have not had any hazing at all on any of my cars.



I have AIOx2 and SGx5 and Paste Glaz x2 on my Lincoln and have not had any problems with it either.
 
I think if the temperature is too cold or too humid the Klasse doesn't perform as it should. Of course, I have no scientific evidence to back it up but just from using it last week I also had some smearing but not too bad. I think for the autopians that are on the east coast(New York, Chicago, Toronto etc..) should be more careful when applying Klasse at this time of year. Keep to spring and summer conditions with low humidity will yield better results with application.
 
I know spring and summer have the highest humidity but there are days that the humidity is rather low. I know it is pretty hard to work around the weather but we have no choice. Fall time is too cold but there are a few days in October and November that are suitable for washing and Klassing.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by ShowroomLincoln [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Over the last few weeks here in Cincy the temp has varied from the 20's to the 70's and I have not had any hazing at all on any of my cars.

I have AIOx2 and SGx5 and Paste Glaz x2 on my Lincoln and have not had any problems with it either. [/b]</blockquote>
If that's the case, then it must be a combo of weather and the German paint. Because the Alero has no film.
 
I really haven't heard any of the more senior members experience any such problems with Klasse yet. The temperature and climate may indeed have a little role in all this. Laters.
 
When you have this problem, and it is the result of three issues, excessive product, not shaking the product and the product is petroluem heavy regarding the formula.



Mist the surface with some alcohol based glass cleaner and wipe off.



The alcohols in the glass cleaner will work as a drying agent and the condition will be gone.





:bounce
 
After almost 3 weeks, the last group in Thailand was done, decided enough was enough and got an earlier flight.



Tired of not having my fresh ground coffee, American food, my own bed and had seen enough of South East Asia for a while.



So, left out of Bangkok at 7 AM their time Friday and got into Cincy at 6 PM Friday time.



Been in the office, catching up and now catching up on all you enthusists and the boutique products.



Ketch



:cool:
 
Hey guys, I got my bottle of 105 today and I immediately put it to use. I had a ring on my paint where I had a Sirius antenna located that I wanted to try to get off.

I used my PC7424 along with the 105 and a LC Orange pad and everything went as planned, it took the marring right off. So, I thought I would take it to my trunk as there are a few random scratches that I thought it would take off. However, it really didn't do much with them. It did take some of the smaller stuff off and some swirls, but there are a couple of scratches that are still there. They aren't deep either, you can run your fingernail over them without it catching. Same thing with the top of my bumper, right where the trunk opens, there are some scratches from putting stuff in the trunk (likely my wife and 5 year old, not me!!!) that it didn't seem to do much with. Maybe I used too much, too little, not an aggressive enough pad, I'm not sure.

Just thought I would check to see what the SOP was with the combo that I have.

Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot!
 
I'm using the Kevin Brown method every time I grab 105 now. That means priming the pad liberally with 105 and working it in with my fingers, then a small bead on the panel and pull it in with my rotary or PC. Working time varies depending on what's needed at the time.

I'd be more careful with your trunk lid/bumper scratches if that part is plastic. Heat and aggressive techniques don't work well with plastic painted parts at all.

I've also been experimenting a bit with different pressures, some firm some light. Don't be afraid to do another pass with more agressive pressure and slower arm speed. I had a vehicle recently that had sections that I applied 105 3 x to get where I needed it before moving on to 205 finessing.
 
If it's any consolation it took me a little while the first few times with 105. I found 205 to be a bit easier right out of the gate. Good luck and keep pluggin' with it. It's phenomenal stuff once you get it dialed in!
 
In my experience, harder clearcoats require heavy pressure and slow passes.

You'll be able to know if the clearcoat is hard, if swirlmarks are not removed fairly easily with just a few passes with moderate pressure.
 
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