Tip for old paint

Junebug

Junebug

JAFO
It seems word of my detailing has reached the guys that hold onto stuff (too long!) crowd and I'm been getting a few oldies. I'm currently doing a 1994 Toyota Pickup. It's flat single stage white. Now, this truck only has 65K actual miles and spent a good deal of time under the barn shelter getting crud from whatever the wind blew. So, I had nasty overspray AND oxidation, lovely, I love those things.

I killed a nice little ball of Clay Magic Blue and then started experimenting on the paint polishing. If you're the sensitive type, just quit reading here.........ok, now, this ain't no six figure show car, and the owner doesn't want to spend but a few bucks. I tried M101, M105 & D300 with MF and LC Orange pads (via PCXP) and after several tries, I discovered the best, fastest and producer of the desired slick, clear, new looking paint was this: M101, spray a little Megs Final Inspection on the pad for every other panal, apply a good amount, think cream on a cinnamon bun look to the pad, spread with speed 3, work it at 5, and finish with one complete pass at 6. Now, I used compressed air to clean the pad, and I go right back and instead of wiping off the panal, I start back at speed 5 and work it till it's fairly clear. Now, you can wipe off the panal with a MF towel and that's it.

One fairly long step but WTH, it worked! Notes - MF pads were useless, D300 was weak sauce and doing multiple steps with different polishes was just working for free with no increase in looks for the paint. Does it sound like I like M101, you bet your butt I do.

This was the big flavor of the month a while back and I held off getting it till it was available in the USA for a decent price.

Other notes: temp was mid 80's, humidity was high, doors open in 2 car garage and we had a few thunderstorms blow through during the time I worked. I kept thinking I would be on that 1000 Ways to Die show, but I guess my karma said nope!
 
If you would have spent an extra 15 minutes or so when you washed it before doing anything else, by incorporating the ValuGard ABC system up front, you would find that you would have cut your cleaning and buff time by a large percentage.

At most a single pass of cutting on some bad panels, then a polish, polish the rest and apply the final sealant/wax.

Many have found this to work very well and reduce labor time, produce a cleaner, more even finish.

The "white" would be "white" before you take a polisher to it, as all the built up years of dirt, soil, etc that was not only "on the paint', but "down in the pores" would be washed out and gone.

That is, in it's self, an eye opener.
 
I didn't realize ABC took care of overspray. I found the white pretty white after claying, dull yes, but white. The weather only permitted me to use my Duragloss rinseless stuff to wash it in the garage. All in all, I did the wash, clay, buff and wipe down in 2 hours and 45 minutes. Hey -ain't as young as I use to be.
 
Sounds like a great procedure for a budget detail on a worker vehicle. I think the use of ABC on every detail might be a little cost prohibitive. If the owner was pleased then it was a job well done
 
Bill D said:
Sounds like a great procedure for a budget detail on a worker vehicle. I think the use of ABC on every detail might be a little cost prohibitive. If the owner was pleased then it was a job well done
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Cost prohibitive? Not sure that when one includes shipping in the equation, that $6 or $7 a car to save at least an hour, if not more could be prohibitive.

I don't know what everyshop figures their per hour labor at, but I when I still do the once in a while car, I bill my labor from a low of $25 an hour to $75 an hour. (dependant on what work, tools, materials and expertise is required)

Pricing is usually based on market conditions. If the competition is charging $300 for a detail, and I can use a product that saves me one hour, and still charge the going rate, that is money in my pocket.

I'll make money spending $7 as it saves me labor time, that I am going to charge for when I price the job to meet that market price..
 
I meant its possible that it may be cost prohibitive for somebody who doesn't detail for a living or may get a job every now and then but all the figures you just presented make sense for a pro or for shop
 
I understand, Bill.

The company never has made a kit available for the once or twice a year user.

I tried to get them to produce one, but was over ruled everytime.

They are a very OEM and large user oriented, just seem to stay that course.

It must work, seen a lot of "car care" companies come and go, flashes in the pan, and Automotive International has been successful since the early 80's, growing every year.
 
I'm just thankful that they offer it to the public online



For overspray that's a different story. You'll have to do a whole a lot of claying When I had overspray on my Audi I did the ABC then did a lot of claying after that
 
As I have stated, it is not for the total removal of overspray, but in many cases it makes it easier as it crawls under the overspray deposit and loosen them in "many" cases.

System was never formulated to remove overspray, just that over the years, they found that in many cases it speeded up the removal.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
As I have stated, it is not for the total removal of overspray, but in many cases it makes it easier as it crawls under the overspray deposit and loosen them in "many" cases.

System was never formulated to remove overspray, just that over the years, they found that in many cases it speeded up the removal.
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Don't want to hijack the thread, but was going to call VG and ask - "How 'bout bugs and tar?" This is the season for us and currently I'm using CG Bug and Tar Shampoo + TarX, when called for.



So I'll ask here instead.



And BTW - Thanks for sharing the process JuneBug!
 
Bugs? I use a product from a little local company - Majestic Solutions called Bug Off. Tar is best removed by some K1, and remember you have to wash right afterwards to remove the kerosene .

I would rather do two quick steps with cheap, easy to get products.

I am sure I will get the big OMG, but, never had any paint problems.
 


Works for bugs, but not for tar. Simple reason for that, bug are dried organic material that can be liquified by water with surfactants in a product.

Tar is hydrocarbon based, so a hydrocarbon based product is what is effective.

Most of the "bug tar removal products", if you check the label warnings are hydrocarbon based, mainly in most, is mineral spirits. It stays wet, so it liquifies the bug deposits.

Expensive and in some cases will attack and break down adhesives used to attach emblems, etc. Vs a water borne for bug guts which does not do so.

Just basic chemistry.
 
JuneBug said:
Bugs? I use a product from a little local company - Majestic Solutions called Bug Off. Tar is best removed by some K1, and remember you have to wash right afterwards to remove the kerosene .

I would rather do two quick steps with cheap, easy to get products.

I am sure I will get the big OMG, but, never had any paint problems.
Click to expand...



Most Tar removers I've looked into contain kerosene, xylene or some such.
 
Ron Ketcham said:


Works for bugs, but not for tar. Simple reason for that, bug are dried organic material that can be liquified by water with surfactants in a product.

Tar is hydrocarbon based, so a hydrocarbon based product is what is effective.

Most of the "bug tar removal products", if you check the label warnings are hydrocarbon based, mainly in most, is mineral spirits. It stays wet, so it liquifies the bug deposits.

Expensive and in some cases will attack and break down adhesives used to attach emblems, etc. Vs a water borne for bug guts which does not do so.

Just basic chemistry.
Click to expand...



Guess I was programmed by the marketing to write 'bug and tar'. Bugs I find more difficult to remove then tar. Going to pull the trigger on the ABC. Is it safe for clear bra's?
 
I guess the phrase "don't bug me" was started by a detailer! I find that driving at night and especially now since we've had about a year's worth of rain in 2 two weeks, the bugs are just dying (pun intended) to make their mark....on my bumper. It's a pain but I keep a bug sponge, a little no-rinse in a bucket and just clean up daily. I apply wax weekly to the bumper and side mirrors too.

Now, the folks that don't do this, I bring out the "Bug Off" (after power rinsing) and let it dwell for a couple minutes, it helps.
 
It is safe for clear bras.

Detailers and the consumer make more of a fight on getting off bugs than they really need to.

1. Soak the deposits with your carwash soap.

2. Better yet, when you use the A in the ABC, and it requires 5 to 7 minutes dwell time, so the bugs are pretty well softened up and come off.

3. In the ABC kit is a little pad, looks like a Scotch Brite but is not. VG-IS is an insect pad, that is also used for the application of the B in the kit.

4. As long as the surface is wet, it will NOT scratch.(keep in mind that the kit and the products are approved, tested, etc by numerous vehicle manufacturers and if it did scratch, they wouldn't have approved it's use)

5. You can use the pad with your car wash soap, but "soaking" is the key!

6. When one does the A of the ABC, most guts are gone, and when you move to the next step and use the B with the pad, the rest are gone.

7. IMPORTANT-if after all this, you "still see bug deposits", better get out the 30X magnifier as it is 99% sure that what is left is not bug gut deposits but etching of the paint due to the acids and proteins in the bugs.

 
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