Tinted clears?

EBPcivicsi

EBPcivicsi

GOT PREP?
I don't any experience with this kind of paint. Does it really exist , or is it just SS paint?



Here's the scenario--I went to a customer's house last night to give him a quote on detailing a 68 charger. The car is completely restored inside and out and has the most flawless paint that that I have ever seen in my area. The paint is jet black, with *zero* OP, looks like black glass. It was *severely* marred and the owner wanted to do a test panel to see if I could fix it. No problem, my immediate thought is a polishing pad with HT EC--it's that bad. So I get the rotary out, leave the speed low (1200 RPM's) and commence to polish a small panel with a Meguiars polsihing pad--micromarring, dull, etc. This typically doesn't happen for me with HT EC, so I get out a blue finishing pad and OP, work another section @1200 RPM's and the finish is nearly perfect. A quick pass with FPII via PC and a finishing pad and it is perfect. Now the odd part is that there is black on the pads, not enough that I would be led to believe that it is SS, but enough that I ask the owner if the painter cleared it. His response was that he *thought* that the painter told him that for the last coat he psrayed base coat *AND* clear. Anyone ever heard of this? Are these paints typically that soft? The car is a garage queen, only runs at the track in good weather, only needs to be washed about five times per year--zero dirt/contaminants on the finish--this was paint on the pads.



Cliff notes



*very* marred paint is corrected via OP @1200 RPM's and a finishing pad



black piant on pads, but not enough to that I would think SS



cutomer thinks the painter sprayed base coat *and* clear on the final coat



could this be a tinted clear?



Are they typically this soft?



TIA
 
It could have been, but the paint was absolutely clean and as smooth as glass, you could not feel anything on the paint. With as much paint as there was on the pad IMO you would have been able to feel the overspray. Does that make sense?
 
I'll go with tinted clear.





I know some car companies still use this "method" today. To the best of my knowledge, it is to make up for a mismatch in color. Almost like a glaze hiding defects...but don't quote me.
 
GM used a tinted clear on the 50th Anniversary Edition Corvettes (metallic maroon color).



Sounds like you might have run into some.
 
Uh, my car has tinted clear from the factory and I have never experienced that.



I bet its single stage paint.



Lorne
 
96snake said:
Uh, my car has tinted clear from the factory and I have never experienced that.



I bet its single stage paint.



Lorne
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Interesting, so no paint transfer at all when polishing?



I was under the impression that what some people *thought* were SS black paint jobs (like on some Lexus models) were actually tinted clears--that's why I asked.
 
My buddy Josh had a red dodge stealth that was badly oxidized - I thought it was SS until I noticed the clearcoat failure on the rear bumper. It turned my pads red but not nearly as badly as I would have expected, apparently it was a tinted clear car.
 
Any time a clear coat is tinted it is normally an indication of a 3stage paint, alot of companies are using it now. Normal paint is 2 stage..base coat and clear coat. 3 stage is base coat and tint and clear coat. That is how Candy paint is done. However, im not sure if there should be paint transfer on the pads.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Interesting, so no paint transfer at all when polishing?



I was under the impression that what some people *thought* were SS black paint jobs (like on some Lexus models) were actually tinted clears--that's why I asked.
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None whatsoever. To be specific I have 3 stage Laser Red tinted CC metallic from the factory on my 96 Cobra.



Lorne
 
96snake said:
None whatsoever. To be specific I have 3 stage Laser Red tinted CC metallic from the factory on my 96 Cobra.



Lorne
Click to expand...



Ditto the Laser Red on my 2001 GT. The base coat is a red but, does not contain any flake, the mid coat is more of a pinkish color and contains the flake and then the clear has a slight red tint to it. I love the color but, it is near impossible to match with touchup paint.
 
Interesting guys, I will detail the car on 9-23, I will report back then. I guess it's either SS paint, or it's dirt and I didn't know it. I just don't think it *could* be dirt--too much of a garage queen...



Thanks for the input guys.
 
If there's tint in the clear and you're removing some of that layer to level the paint then I'd say that you *have* to get some color transfer but that it would vary with each paint manufacturer or even painter.
 
SpoiledMan said:
If there's tint in the clear and you're removing some of that layer to level the paint then I'd say that you *have* to get some color transfer but that it would vary with each paint manufacturer or even painter.
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That's what I was thinking, but the other fellas with first hand experience said no. :nixweiss
 
I agree it CAN be fixed but its hard to do unless you do it yourself or have a friend who's a body man do it since the body shops make their money on insurance payouts not on fixing cars really.



After a long time I finally got this guy to do my car since he can do custom work:



auto body repair, long beach, body work, paint, california, mobile auto body



The rest said "man that's going to cost more than your car is worth" or "sure I can just slap some bondo on there..." or "its not worth it..." - they didnt understand that I just wanted the dents fixed for an honest price. And half of them didnt even know *** they were doing saying that they had this "special tool" that would do it and they werent making much sense explaining how the magic tool would work (it was pretty funny and obvious they were making it up as the went.)



but like the guys said, just NEVER take the insurance companies first offer, find the 10 highest priced 944 turbos in your area or on ebay (like the $20k ones) and show the insurance those prices, they have to come close to them (I think its the law).
 
CrimsonSam said:
I agree it CAN be fixed but its hard to do unless you do it yourself or have a friend who's a body man do it since the body shops make their money on insurance payouts not on fixing cars really.



After a long time I finally got this guy to do my car since he can do custom work:



auto body repair, long beach, body work, paint, california, mobile auto body



The rest said "man that's going to cost more than your car is worth" or "sure I can just slap some bondo on there..." or "its not worth it..." - they didnt understand that I just wanted the dents fixed for an honest price. And half of them didnt even know *** they were doing saying that they had this "special tool" that would do it and they werent making much sense explaining how the magic tool would work (it was pretty funny and obvious they were making it up as the went.)



but like the guys said, just NEVER take the insurance companies first offer, find the 10 highest priced 944 turbos in your area or on ebay (like the $20k ones) and show the insurance those prices, they have to come close to them (I think its the law).
Click to expand...



Did you post to the wrong thread??
 
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