Time vs Quality
- Thread starter dtraylor
- Start date
Ron Ketcham
Active member
A high speed rotary and lambs wool pad, some lite polish and set the buffer at 1000 rpm and they come out like new, then apply a coat of your sealant and everytime you reapply it to the paint, do the bug deflector.
Long and hard way, doesn't really get all the little mars you are seeing is the PC and a foam pad, but will help it.
Hell, it is "plastic" a cousin of your clear coat, don't be afraid of it, we do them all the time, also the taillight lens, the head light lens that are plastic, keeps them new! They gets mars just like your clear.
Long and hard way, doesn't really get all the little mars you are seeing is the PC and a foam pad, but will help it.
Hell, it is "plastic" a cousin of your clear coat, don't be afraid of it, we do them all the time, also the taillight lens, the head light lens that are plastic, keeps them new! They gets mars just like your clear.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Don't take to heart what some push for and against regarding product. NuFinish liquid won't damage a clearcoat.
It will make your reflector look a lot better, but it needs the fine marring polished out of it.
If you got one of the little 30X magnifers and look at the finish on the reflector you will see what I am talking about.
That is dullness, it is marring.
It will make your reflector look a lot better, but it needs the fine marring polished out of it.
If you got one of the little 30X magnifers and look at the finish on the reflector you will see what I am talking about.
That is dullness, it is marring.
You can easily polish your bug shield with a light
swirl remover (2000 grit leveler). It's the same you'd use on paint as a pre-wax cleaner.
The shields are a bit flimsy, so put one hand behind for bracing, and apply the polish with a foam or terry pad. Wax with the same product you use on the car.
swirl remover (2000 grit leveler). It's the same you'd use on paint as a pre-wax cleaner.
The shields are a bit flimsy, so put one hand behind for bracing, and apply the polish with a foam or terry pad. Wax with the same product you use on the car.
Turbonator
New member
Hi Grant, I've never tried the high-speed or PC7424 method for bug deflectors because they're so flimsy. However, I've recently had very pleasing results using One Grand's Plastic Polish. It's worked better than the Meguiar's I used to use.
I just tried it, and wasnt exactly pleased with the results. Its mostly due to the buffer. The pad was worn, which I did not know until the damage had already been done, but the seam where the fluffy part and the piece that wraps around to hold it on was worn, so it got hold of the bug guard and laid down a few run marks. I got the wax off and hit it up with some Meguiars QD, and that seemed to help a bit. Its a bit better than before, but eventually I'm going to get a guard that covers the fenders also.
imported_doctordon
New member
This thread is for those who perform mobile detailing.
As I am just starting in the mobile detailing business, I find it very difficult (for me) to finish a complete detail (wash, clay, complete interior, complete exterior - with only minor paint correction) in less than 7 hours. And when finished I still see other areas that I could address but my body says NO!
On another forum someone started a thread titled "What do like least about detailing". A large majority of the responses were - I wish I had enough time to do a thorough job. I'm looking for help from those with more experience as to what tips or suggestions can you offer that would decrease the amount of time spent on a vehicle yet still perform a quality and thorough job.
Thanks in advance.
Doc
As I am just starting in the mobile detailing business, I find it very difficult (for me) to finish a complete detail (wash, clay, complete interior, complete exterior - with only minor paint correction) in less than 7 hours. And when finished I still see other areas that I could address but my body says NO!
On another forum someone started a thread titled "What do like least about detailing". A large majority of the responses were - I wish I had enough time to do a thorough job. I'm looking for help from those with more experience as to what tips or suggestions can you offer that would decrease the amount of time spent on a vehicle yet still perform a quality and thorough job.
Thanks in advance.
Doc
imported_Luster
New member
Hey Doc... I feel your pain! You just can't do a 10 hour detail in 4 hours!
The problem I always run into (charging by the hour) is that the customer will tell me what he wants. Then I'll calculate the number of hours and tell him the price (Let's say $400). Then he'll rub his chin and pace for a while and say, "Why don't you just give me 200 dollars worth!"
Well that doesn't get the job done!
Some ways I cut my time:
1. ONR wash rather than conventional wash
2. I work at a rapid stead pace and I don't stop for anything... I don't answer the phone, I don't chat with the customer, nothing.
3. On larger vehicles I will pressure wash the wheels, tires, wheelwells, door jambs. Saves time over hand washing.
4. Obviously a rotary saves quite a bit of time over a PC. This is probably the biggest time-saver in the detail process. (I haven't gone there yet, but it could easily happen.)
5. Using a hot water extractor will save time over cleaning carpets by hand.
6. I've been known to have my wife help me on the interior. (She does good detail work and works cheap!)
7. I apply and remove sealant with the PC. Saves valuable minutes.
That's not a lot but if you add up all those saved minutes, it saves much time in the end!:wink:
Good thread.:cornut:
The problem I always run into (charging by the hour) is that the customer will tell me what he wants. Then I'll calculate the number of hours and tell him the price (Let's say $400). Then he'll rub his chin and pace for a while and say, "Why don't you just give me 200 dollars worth!"
Well that doesn't get the job done!
Some ways I cut my time:
1. ONR wash rather than conventional wash
2. I work at a rapid stead pace and I don't stop for anything... I don't answer the phone, I don't chat with the customer, nothing.
3. On larger vehicles I will pressure wash the wheels, tires, wheelwells, door jambs. Saves time over hand washing.
4. Obviously a rotary saves quite a bit of time over a PC. This is probably the biggest time-saver in the detail process. (I haven't gone there yet, but it could easily happen.)
5. Using a hot water extractor will save time over cleaning carpets by hand.
6. I've been known to have my wife help me on the interior. (She does good detail work and works cheap!)
7. I apply and remove sealant with the PC. Saves valuable minutes.
That's not a lot but if you add up all those saved minutes, it saves much time in the end!:wink:
Good thread.:cornut:
T
TOGWT
Guest
As a professional you?ll have to balance ?what the customer is willing to pay for? and provide the best quality job within that framework.
I'm sure some of the professional detailer can give you some real world pointers as to time savers that don't compromise quality too much
I'm sure some of the professional detailer can give you some real world pointers as to time savers that don't compromise quality too much
imported_doctordon
New member
Bill & TOWGT thank you for your input and suggestions.
Bill your suggestion of using a pressure washer would help me reduce time on large soccer mom buses. I'm hoping Santa Claus will bring me one for Christmas.
TOWGT you are correct in that I have to learn how to balance ?what the customer is willing to pay for? and provide the best quality job within that framework. Once I get that down I will feel more confident and professional. I'm sure that will come with experience.
I'm hoping others can add to these valuable time-saving tips.
Bill your suggestion of using a pressure washer would help me reduce time on large soccer mom buses. I'm hoping Santa Claus will bring me one for Christmas.
TOWGT you are correct in that I have to learn how to balance ?what the customer is willing to pay for? and provide the best quality job within that framework. Once I get that down I will feel more confident and professional. I'm sure that will come with experience.
I'm hoping others can add to these valuable time-saving tips.
EastsideAutoSpa
New member
We do not offer correction jobs on-site we have them bring them and drop off. When we do mobile we only offer standard detailing, No clay, no buffing, No extractor, people are fine with it and realize to get more they will have to drop off at our shop as well as PAY more for the service. You just have to find a good balance of price and service that works best in your city for mobile.
Where are you trying to get going?
Where are you trying to get going?
imported_Flash Gordon
New member
Not alot more I can ad other then:
1)Have all your products topped off
2)Know exactally where they are(products)
3)Don't cross contaimenate towels or pads(you will have to re-do/waste time)
4)Foam cannon= waste of time also, IMPO
1)Have all your products topped off
2)Know exactally where they are(products)
3)Don't cross contaimenate towels or pads(you will have to re-do/waste time)
4)Foam cannon= waste of time also, IMPO
What I try to do is evaluate the vehicle first ( i know sometimes time is a factor). It was up to the customer to either have me take the vehicle or do the job there. I started early.....sometimes between 6-7am depending on the condition of the vehicle. We all know what the long work days are, but I felt such an accomplishment once the job was done right. Just a few thoughts.
John Henry
New member
Guess you'd classify me as a newbie semi-pro. My advice would be to learn how to set the customer's expectations. That was/is one of the most difficult aspects of detailing for money for me.
Some examples:
- Yes, it is possible to remove all the swirls.
- No, my four hour wash, wax, interior vacuum & wipe-down, windows, wheels and trim job will not give you 100% paint correction.
- I don't want to be rude, but I really can't stop and talk.
- I know it's Saturday morning, but I have to start at 8:00 am.
- Payment is expected at the completion of the job.
- Please check out these existing scratches and dents with me before I start.
- Carpet and upholstery stains, leather treatment, engine detail, glass polishing, trunk cleaning, etc., cost extra.
- Do you mind if I use your bathroom if necessary?
Best of luck, Doc!
Some examples:
- Yes, it is possible to remove all the swirls.
- No, my four hour wash, wax, interior vacuum & wipe-down, windows, wheels and trim job will not give you 100% paint correction.
- I don't want to be rude, but I really can't stop and talk.
- I know it's Saturday morning, but I have to start at 8:00 am.
- Payment is expected at the completion of the job.
- Please check out these existing scratches and dents with me before I start.
- Carpet and upholstery stains, leather treatment, engine detail, glass polishing, trunk cleaning, etc., cost extra.
- Do you mind if I use your bathroom if necessary?
Best of luck, Doc!
rockymountaindetail
New member
I agree with a lot of the above tips. For me it was an evolution that got me to this place. Seeing what type of customers call for mobile service in my area I kinda tailored my service to that.
1. If you offer pre-set packages, like basic detail, deluxe detail, top line detail you can learn how long each takes you to do and charge accordingly. I find that most of my customers are not guys with expensive car collections ( I wish ), but soccer mom's, people who are selling their car, just bought a car, etc. These type of clients aren't really concerned with paint corrections and "Q-tip detailing", so why include it in your basic package. You can always offer it when you get on site.
2. Another thing to remember is that on a mobile service you may not have access to a garage or any shade. That will absolutely rule out any serious paint correction in direct sun. For exteriors, I choose a 1-step product with a little cleaning ability and some protection. This will bump the shine a bit, clean a bit and save a lot of time over separate steps. Of course it won't be as good but they can upgrade if they like.
3. Interiors I use the VX500 steamer. This is a HUGE time saver and the results are great, This can be used on carpets, headliners and the entire interior including leather seats and door panels.
4. Get some bottle caddies. These can hold 2 or 3 bottles so when you go to do the interior you have everything you need at hand. Every trip back to your truck or trailer takes time. I believe that the back and forth is one of the biggest time-suckers there is on a mobile detail. I also have a caddy for wheels and tires. It has all my cleaners and various brushes. I can carry it from corner to corner with 1 hand.
5. Make sure your truck/ trailer is organized. I keep all my interior stuff and exterior stuff in separate areas. Bottles are color coded or marked so they are easily distinguished from each other and you don't waste time looking for products or grabbing the wrong one.
6. In my basic package motors are not included. I offer it as an extra. Many people just don't care and probably haven't even looked at their motors in years... if ever at all.
7. Practice will help you with getting your time down. You will learn through trial and error what to do in what order that makes it go faster.
8. My basic package includes the following:
wash, wax, wheels, tires, glass, vac, wipe door lambs, steam carpets and seats, clean and condition any leather, clean and dress interior surfaces......done. Cars take me around 3.5 hours. Larger trucks and Suv's take me 4 - 4.5 hours. I have worked a lot to get it down to that and am not able to really get it any faster at this point. of course and extra's such as stain removal, paint correction etc take extra time and because of that...extra $.
Hopefully that gives you some stuff to think about!
1. If you offer pre-set packages, like basic detail, deluxe detail, top line detail you can learn how long each takes you to do and charge accordingly. I find that most of my customers are not guys with expensive car collections ( I wish ), but soccer mom's, people who are selling their car, just bought a car, etc. These type of clients aren't really concerned with paint corrections and "Q-tip detailing", so why include it in your basic package. You can always offer it when you get on site.
2. Another thing to remember is that on a mobile service you may not have access to a garage or any shade. That will absolutely rule out any serious paint correction in direct sun. For exteriors, I choose a 1-step product with a little cleaning ability and some protection. This will bump the shine a bit, clean a bit and save a lot of time over separate steps. Of course it won't be as good but they can upgrade if they like.
3. Interiors I use the VX500 steamer. This is a HUGE time saver and the results are great, This can be used on carpets, headliners and the entire interior including leather seats and door panels.
4. Get some bottle caddies. These can hold 2 or 3 bottles so when you go to do the interior you have everything you need at hand. Every trip back to your truck or trailer takes time. I believe that the back and forth is one of the biggest time-suckers there is on a mobile detail. I also have a caddy for wheels and tires. It has all my cleaners and various brushes. I can carry it from corner to corner with 1 hand.
5. Make sure your truck/ trailer is organized. I keep all my interior stuff and exterior stuff in separate areas. Bottles are color coded or marked so they are easily distinguished from each other and you don't waste time looking for products or grabbing the wrong one.
6. In my basic package motors are not included. I offer it as an extra. Many people just don't care and probably haven't even looked at their motors in years... if ever at all.
7. Practice will help you with getting your time down. You will learn through trial and error what to do in what order that makes it go faster.
8. My basic package includes the following:
wash, wax, wheels, tires, glass, vac, wipe door lambs, steam carpets and seats, clean and condition any leather, clean and dress interior surfaces......done. Cars take me around 3.5 hours. Larger trucks and Suv's take me 4 - 4.5 hours. I have worked a lot to get it down to that and am not able to really get it any faster at this point. of course and extra's such as stain removal, paint correction etc take extra time and because of that...extra $.
Hopefully that gives you some stuff to think about!
Over the years I've gotten much more efficient in my actions and organization of supplies. I did a little exercise a few years back (after reading similar questions on detail forums) where I wrote every single process down on paper in the order I like to do it and then derived a plan for more efficient movement. It helped to find the inefficient movements and materials needed.
I organize what I need in a way that it's within fairly easy reach. I also changed the order of some actions to reduce time. It was an eye opening little exercise.
I organize what I need in a way that it's within fairly easy reach. I also changed the order of some actions to reduce time. It was an eye opening little exercise.
imported_doctordon
New member
Thanks Eastsideautospa, Flash, jdog1988, John Henry, rockymountaindetail and Puckman for your additional suggestions.
These responses are exactly what I was hoping the more experienced would provide. I greatly appreciate all the responses thus far.
Doc
Paul - I live in a rural area about 40 miles north of Tampa, FL. My customers drive pick-up trucks and grocery getters. I have yet to detail an exotic vehicle of any kind unless you call a Ford F250 Diesel with a fiberglass tool box exotic.
I think a lot of my difficulty stems from the fact that I am a perfectionist. That is something I know I must learn to balance. Paul, your suggestions make good sense.
I think a lot of my difficulty stems from the fact that I am a perfectionist. That is something I know I must learn to balance. Paul, your suggestions make good sense.
. . . and for me as well. I'm hoping to improve with experience.
WOW rockymountaindetail - great tips and ideas. The idea of bottle caddies will be implemented immediately. I appreciate you sharing all of that with me.
Puckman - I will put pen to paper as you suggested. Many thanks!
These responses are exactly what I was hoping the more experienced would provide. I greatly appreciate all the responses thus far.
Doc
Tucson buffer
New member
Doc, for what it's worth, I found a whole ton of great articles on www.autodetailingnetwork.com (article Library) that address's alot of your questions.
imported_doctordon
New member
Steve, thanks for link. Looks like there is a lot of info on that site. I've got some reading to do.
Much appreciated Steve.
Much appreciated Steve.