Thinking I should get rid of the PC for a rotary

J

justinschmidt1

New member
Well I got my PC and I dont think im gonna be happy with it.



It just takes way too long to remove scratches or anything really.



Im thinking I might try and get my hands on a rotary so I can actually do some paint correction in a reasonable amount fo time.



Whats a good/cheap rotary?
 
keep the PC, you can use it for applying lps's/glazes, and doing carpets as well. having the rotary & PC both compliment each other, IMO...



save your money (unless you have enough now) and get a reputable/high quality rotary (makita, dewalt, hitachi, etc)...
 
BigAl3 said:
keep the PC, you can use it for applying lps's/glazes, and doing carpets as well. having the rotary & PC both compliment each other, IMO...



save your money (unless you have enough now) and get a reputable/high quality rotary (makita, dewalt, hitachi, etc)...
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+1



I kept my PC after I got my rotary. It makes putting on a coat wax/glaze/AIO really fast and easy. I can put these on way thinner and way more even and still save time. It is wort keeping. :buffing:
 
PC always has its uses. BigAl3 mentioned a couple. I use mine for agitating carpet and floormats. Miracle worker!





I also have a Flex now and am categorically happier with it for external uses.
 
Well deep scratches aren't coming out easy (or at all) with a DA polisher, but how often are you gonna have deep scratches? For routine polishing and LSP application, the PC rules - I'd have little use for a rotary on my ride (but use the PC all the time) - now my wife's car cries for a rotary or new paint!
 
justinschmidt1- Yeah, keep the PC if you get a rotary. Not everyone can finish out 100% with a rotary (I can't).



I don't use the rotaries all *that* much...mainly just for *very* infrequent correction on the Audis. They *are* handy for RIDS (with 4" pads) for spot-correcting RIDS though. But I really don't need it for the Mazda, and the last RIDS I removed from the Denali XL I did via PC/4".



If you haven't tried 4" pads with the PC, you might oughta give 'em a shot. They don't turn it into a rotary or anything like that, but they *do* allow it to work *much* more aggressively.
 
rebelde33 said:
You could also try using more aggressive pads and then remove any marring with a less aggressing one.
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How much more aggressive can I get?



Im using yellow pad with ssr3





What would be propor technique when trying to remove scratches?





I always feel like pushing harder on the highest speed would provide the best cut.....but its probably better to just go slow and let the polish do the work right?
 
4inch pads combined with something like Meguiars M105 should be able to remove any scratch rather quickly.



Not as quick as a rotary but if all your cars are in good condition then a PC can do nearly anything.
 
I just picked up a rotary for the first time a week ago and was impressed by the difference. It cleared up hard black paint (that I couldn't with the PC) super quick. But I would definitely keep the PC.



Be careful with the 4" pads if you use them. I've gotten paint very hot with them in the past (anyone else ever seen a 4" pad steam when it is 70 degrees outside?).
 
4" pad, making it steam, :confused: your doing something wrong. I never had that happen to me ever. Keep practicing and soon you'll master the power of the rotary.:2thumbs:
 
justinschmidt1 said:
How much more aggressive can I get?



Im using yellow pad with ssr3





What would be propor technique when trying to remove scratches?





I always feel like pushing harder on the highest speed would provide the best cut.....but its probably better to just go slow and let the polish do the work right?
Click to expand...



When I use to use the PC for correction work I used an LC 6" yellow pad with SSR3 and would push hard enough to almost bog the PC. That's the only way to get the most out of a PC. I have done some major correction work with this technique, which I have posted on Autopia. Having said that, the PC can't hold a candle to a rotary for correction or finishing, IMO.
 
JonP said:
4" pad, making it steam, :confused: your doing something wrong. I never had that happen to me ever. Keep practicing and soon you'll master the power of the rotary.:2thumbs:
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Yep, low dollar dealer work. A loaded 4" pad at speed six will steam up. Speed six also wears out the velcro backing to 4" pads much faster. I don't reccomend it, but I feel comfortable enough with it based on experience. But all that will be gone when I get more practice with the rotary.
 
DSVWGLI said:
When I use to use the PC for correction work I used an LC 6" yellow pad with SSR3 and would push hard enough to almost bog the PC. That's the only way to get the most out of a PC. I have done some major correction work with this technique, which I have posted on Autopia. Having said that, the PC can't hold a candle to a rotary for correction or finishing, IMO.
Click to expand...



Yea...I bet...this is why I think a rotary would be a good investment since I could probably go over a car with ssr3 and remove all the light scratches and stuff in like 1/10 the time it takes with the PC if the PC will remove them at all
 
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