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Ryan

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This week was sort of bus. I got to do a early 90's White Oldsmobile conviertible, a GreenFord Mustang, a 98' Silber Dodge Durango, and a midnight blue metallic Acura 3.2 TL. The last 2 I don't have any pictures. But, the owners want me to wash those vehicles weekly so I will have some pictures soon.



Here is a before of a Mustang:







MustangBefore2.jpg


MustangBefore.jpg


MustangWheelBefore2.jpg




And some finals after:



Mustang3.jpg




Mustang5.jpg




Mustang6.jpg




The owner was pleased. Too bad she has to sell her.



Enjoy!
 
I figured that someone would ask about products I used for this car because I was myself happy with the results. I used the same techniques as I do always. Rotary for compounding the top panels and a DA for polish and glaze. The sides of this car were too tight for a 8" pad which would have caused damage. I need a few good links to 4 and 6" pads for the rotary so i can begin using them.



The polish I used was Intensive, and a glaze mixed with a couple polishes which I don't know the specifics. For a wax I chose Collinite for its durability.
 
Oh, the wheels were sanded using 2000 grit Nikken, compounded and polished.



The appearance is new





VillanAfter.jpg
 
Looks good.. I just did a mustang like this yesterday. It was metallic maroon in color and had a white top. It was oxidized pretty bad and it looks like it came out similar to yours. The paint on these cars are kinda wierd. You cant get a real reflective look to it..but it comes out really wet and clean looking.



What did you use on the top? Thats one thing is really couldnt do anything with.
 
Yes, I am a cyclo user forever. Bufferdan: I agree that the mustang is very simple to detail, but the paint pigment is what makes the car so difficult to get right, Any light color, like this green is NEVER easy to make a respectable appearance. If I were to choose a color for the car it would be a solid dark or something metallic. NOT light green!

I did however find that after working polish in a 'quarter' section of a panel for just around 3-5 minutes, that the paint was at it's best. Depending on how heavily I compounded, I would work the polish more. Fact is it was swirl free in the end and that was good enough for the owner.



The canvas convertible top was another story and faded to the point of cracking. The local shop had a can of SEM top dye in the Saddle color. Unfortuneatly, Mustang does not manufacture a color code for its tops. My choice was sadlle color in a propellant can or mix by the quart and spray the right way. So, to make a long story short, the can method looked like crud and I stopped that on that route. The owner agreed to use the correct color, mix it, and spray it by the quart in a gun. She did want it done..... until I told her my price :)
 
Hahaha I didn't pay attention to to that but thanks for pointing that out. Now I have to retrieve that towel and burn it!:o



edschwab1: I actualy did the full detail in about 6 hours. 4 on the paint and 2 on the interior. The customer wanted a load of deep scratches taken out and I didn't due it for him. That would have taken a couple more hours and more money than he was willing to spend. :argue
 
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