The 95% Solution -- help me build a process

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fasttimes

New member
Hi folks. I used to be a lot-boy prepping cars for customers. I'm quite impressed with the lengths and techiniques that some of you have gone through in order to shine your ride.



I just got a used 2008 BMW 335i convertible, and yes, it is JET BLACK.



A) I'm going to try and maintain the finish myself. However I don't want to spend an entire weekend per detail job. The reason I titled this post "95% Solution" is because it seems that to achieve that last 5% of perfection is where a good chunk of your detailing time is being spent. I'd like to chuck that 5% and live with almost perfect results.



B) Since I've got a hardtop vert, I have lots of crooks and nannies so I ABSOLUTELY must avoid any product that will leave a film if it doesn't get buffed. I'm assuming this means no Carnuba wax (tell me if I'm wrong).



C) I want to do MINIMAL taping. I'd like to select products that reduce required taping. Taping the logo is ok, but I'd like to avoid things like door handles and obviously panel gaps. If some tapng is required, please state so.



So far I plan on cleaning the car via:



1) ONR Wash

2) Claybar (spot if I can)



(If you have a better suggestion for the cleaning step, please let me know)



Here is where I really need your help. What should I do now to reduce/remove swirls (doens't have to be perfect, but pretty good!) and then seal and/or wax. Keeping in mind objectives A,B,C what steps and products would you use?



I don't have a buffer, but will probably get a PC



Thanks for reading and I look foward to your replies!
 
The Optimum polishes used to be about the best for not dusting, but I have the older versions so I'm not sure if this is still true. Pure carnauba waxes generally don't leave much residue (Meg's used to promote #16 and #26 as "will not dry white") but if you want the ultimate in an LSP (last step product or "wax") not leaving any residue you want a WOWA (wipe on, walk away) like Optimum Opti-Seal, Zaino Clear Seal or Ultima Paint Guard Plus.
 
Wow so you basically want top notch results but little desire in actually taking the proper steps to achive those results.... Gotcha.. Let's see if we can break this down a bit.



A) Not seeing any issue with getting 95% in a single day. Lot of of people do it. However they are usually highly skilled and do this day in and day out and have a very automated process down to help with timing.



B) Shouldn't have much problems here either. Just make sure you wipe it off properly afterwards and you shouldn't have any issues with left over residue.



C) Products really don't dictate taping or not. Process does. There's nothing out there that states "hey if you're using brand "X" you have to tape but if you switch over to brand "Y" no worries" However if you're Using the rotary or a harsh pad/product combo with the PC you may want to tape off rubber mouldings and such to play it safe.



And if you plan on claying a jet black BMW plan on corrective measures afterwards. While it is possible to not marr up the paint it's more likely than not that marring will incurr at some level.
 
Yeah, I gotta agree with Jakerooni on this one. There's just no way you can short-cut BMW jet black. You either gotta put in the effort, time, and money to maintain it, or settle on the fact that it's never going to look 95%. It's about one of the very most difficult paints to maintain and/or correct. I *seriously* doubt that you'll be able to use ONR on that paint without marring. Just wiping a Eurow MF (one of the softest MF's you can get) on completely clean BMW jet black will leave marring. ONR is good, but it's not *that* good. The only way you're going to be able to prevent swirls is to not touch the paint. ANytime you touch Bimmer jet black, you *are* going to mar it.



If I was new to detailing and found myself in the possesion of a BMW jet Black, I'd do the following:



1. Put it up for sale so i could get the metallic black BMW instead.



Then as I wait for it to sell, I'd...



2. Get a PC or a Flex (Flex preferred)



3. Buy about six or seven 4.5" red LC foam pads.



4. Buy a bottle of Menzerna Intensive Polish



5. Buy a bottle of Menzerna Final Polish II



And for reasons that I don't want to have to go into right now, I would not substitute *anything* for any of the stuff listed above.



Then I'd get the DA polisher, one of the red LC pads, the Menz IP, and get to work. Finish out with the FPII on a red pad. Look at the paint, and realize that it still isn't perfect and never will be. After this realization, I'd go lower the price I was asking on the car to sell it quicker.



I wish I was overstating all this, as I love BMW's, and I think black paint is beautiful, but I'm not kidding in the slightest... BMW jet black paint is truly evil. I will not do BMW jet black for any price.
 
Jakerooni said:
Wow so you basically want top notch results but little desire in actually taking the proper steps to achive those results....
Click to expand...



That was exactly my reaction.



On a black car, with hard paint, I would think that even a 1 step polish is a multi-hour affair. Add washes, clay, and LSP to the mix and you're getting dangerously close to an entire day. And if you're going to spend that much time you should do it right.



So to answer your questions about how to build a process, here is what you will need to do.



You will need, quality soap, mitts, buckets, grit guard, and wheel/tire brushes for thorough washing. You will need clay, lube, and quality plush Microfiber towels for claying.



For polishing, you will need a buffer and at least a finishing polish with 2-3 corresponding pads (LC white probably or something similar). Though that's probably going to be the 70% solution, not 95%. If you want more, you'll need to invest in a medium or heavy cut polish and some cutting pads (like LC orange).



I don't really understand your question about nooks and crannies where you're worried about a film being left in places where you don't buff. But you should be able to buff everywhere, even if it's by hand with a MF towel. Klasse Sealer/Glaze, and many of the spray-waxes on the market require very little buffing to remove residue so maybe you should try one of those.



In actuality though, if you're not prepared to invest the time, don't bother with any of this. Just invest in some quality wash products and work to refine your technique through weekly washes. Then just take the car to a professional once or twice a year to take care of everything else.



If you really want to do it yourself, but don't want to put a lot of effort into it, then I would recommend Mother's 3-step system. they make a pre-wax cleaner, glaze, and carnauba wax that can be done in about 1/2 - 3/4 of a day and works fairly well by hand.
 
Less said:
That was exactly my reaction.





In actuality though, if you're not prepared to invest the time, don't bother with any of this. Just invest in some quality wash products and work to refine your technique through weekly washes. Then just take the car to a professional once or twice a year to take care of everything else.
Click to expand...



I was also thinking of this route as well. Wash and glaze to make the swirls less noticable. But to be honest, the swirls are only noticeable if you are looking closely.
 
BTW, could you reccomend some "weekly" wash products that would tide me over in between having a pro work on it?



Thx.
 
get some collinite 845 for your sealant wax...double up on that and you will have a more durable protection layer to prevent marring, swirling, etc.



get a glaze like clearkote red moose glaze, RMG, to lay on the top to "fill" in defects between polishing sessions.

get the softest pads available to you...i am thinking LC gold or red pads

get some stupid soft towels to wash and dry with, you will need them!





Process: Do a full paint correction to give yourself a good starting point

ONR weekely if not twice a week - less dirt to remove = less chances for wiping dirt across the paint

glaze and wax monthly

sealant wax every 3 months

polish every 6 months
 
fasttimes said:
BTW, could you reccomend some "weekly" wash products that would tide me over in between having a pro work on it?



Thx.
Click to expand...



Sure,



First of all, scrap the ONR. The risk of marring is too great. Yes, there are people that use it successfully, and anything is possibel with teh right amount of patience and care. But in your case, with a black car, and your desire to minimize effort, i wouldn't recommend it.



second, get a foam gun and a good sudsing wash shampoo. I like the DP extreme foam stuff from Autogeek, but I haven't really tried anything else, so I don't have much to compare it to.



good buckets, quality mitts, grit guards etc. are all good to have.



Mostly though, the amount of care and patience that you put into the wash is going to determine your results. So just be careful and take your time, and everything should work ok regardless of what products you use.
 
yes wax after a glaze...



the proecss is either:

glaze then carnuba wax

sealant wax then glaze



glazes last a short while and offer very little protection, but "hide" defects for the time being = less aggravation caused by your OCD about a slightly swirled car! That is why I will never own a jet black car, unless it has cerami-clear on it!
 
If I were going with a Jet Black BMW, I'd seriously consider getting some Bilt Hamber Auto Balm and be resigned to the fact that it'll never look perfect no matter what I do. If I had the money, I'd also get a CRS for quick washes.
 
How about finding an (quality) Autopian detailer to do a full correction? Surely there is someone in your area. Then you can maintain the finish with proper wash techniques, your favorite LSP and QD.



I only advise this because of the expense of a PC polisher, pads, compounds and polishes will probably be close to what a quality correction will cost. Besides that, a quality detailer will have multiple compounds and polishes that work best on your car's paint. Plus they bring to the table the knowledge and experience to perform a quality correction.



Plus I am sure they could show you a quick proper wash to minimize marring. They should also have many LSP's to make the jet black look stunning.





just my opinion.
 
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