Thanks to Accumulator

bunkeroo26

New member
At his suggestion in one thread, I refined my polishing method for this newish black paint.


What works great for me was Optimum compound on a microfiber polishing pad, then Optimum finish on a mf polishing pad.


I loved the results. The compound worked great with the polishing pad, and was almost LSP ready. The finish polish really brought out gloss.


Thanks Accumulator.

One question for you with Fk wax, is it really machine applied.
 
And wow, this compound..... I was using way to much in the beginning.

It's unlike others I have used.

Still convinced that I am using too much.


Autocorrect messed up last sentence first post.

Is it easily machine applied?


I am thinking of using this as a premium wax, with the idea

of selling multiple coats over time, it sounds like they

would love the outcome. This is targeted to the Rv crowd

that wants to show off and brag. Plus it sounds like it can

last an entire year trip for them.
 
Heh heh, glad to be helpful but I'm chuckling because I was apparently useful regarding compounding (which I don't do very often) with Optimum Compound (which I hardly ever use these days)!


 


But yeah, the amount-of-compound issues are generally either of two kinda-extremes: not enough product priming the pad or too much product compromising the cut.


 


The FK1000P might last a year for *me* but I wouldn't bet on it lasting that long for most anybody else...consider how, uhm....out-there my wash technique is, and that my vehicles are generally always garaged.  I'll be interested to get some more data on how long it lasts for normal people.


 


I *DO NOT* apply FK1000P via machine.  Maybe it's just me, but with any "!thin application!"-products I find it easier to use a minimal amount when I do things by hand.  And sometimes the FK1000P can be a sorta hard product so getting the right amount, distributed uniformly, on the applicator pad is easier with hand-application pads.  If you do it by machine, get the pad thoroughly/uniformly primed, and then try to scrape/squeeze as much as posslble back out of the pad.  BUT I still bet you'll end up wasting a lot of product.


 


And, noting that I do love machine application of many products, including M16 and 476S, while the motions/action of doing it by machine can be *very* pleasant and much easier (IMO) than a hand-application, I question whether it actually goes any faster.  By the time I get the Cyclo out, hook it up, etc. etc. I could've waxed a whole lotta vehicle.


 


Now I *do* like machine LSP buffing/removal with MF bonnets.  Still usually have to give it a final going-over by hand, but it's that same "more pleasant motions" thing, at least for me.  But again...get out the Cyclo, put on the pads, cover 'em with MF bonnets, etc. etc. and then put it all away vs. just grab a MF and buff off the vehicle.
 
Yep, I see how it can be close to the same time on a car. For my attempted use of an Rv, my Helpers are going to hand wax around all edges, and completing the smallest panels by hand, while I will apply wax on the large flay surface with the buffer.


If Fk 1000p doesn't apply easily by machine, I will find another. This liquid wax is my easiest to apply, but the old timers want a paste wax because they are use to it.
 
wwww-willywallywashwax- If somebody's OK with paste waxes in general, then I don't think the FK1000P should be really problematic.  Being an "old timer" myself,  I seem immune from most "tough-to-use paste wax" issues anyhow, and I don't want to exaggerate anything here....it's just a matter of working at not applying excess product and unless you get one of the "unusually hard" tins of FK1000P it oughta go OK.


 


If you *did* get a can of hard FK1000P, this might not be the best application for it, but I'm still betting you (and your customers) will like the stuff.


 


Heh heh, noting that I consider myself an "old timer", I bet it won't be a problem.
 
Back
Top