Telsa Model S Opti Coat video by Get Detailed Toronto

hamza7

hamza7

New member
Hello Everyone, 
 
Recently completed is a Red telsa model S P85, we washed, decontaminated, polished (paint correction) and applied a paint coating(Cquartz UK) to make it look great for 2+ years. 
 
We begin with a wash, now I switched to rinseless washing so no more sud pics. Rinsing will have to do. 
 
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As you can see, there is no sheeting or beading (signs that show there's protection on the paint) going on, the water is just stuck there. 
 
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Swirling shown in the charge port aka. tail light. 
 
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After
 
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Don't know if you can see the imperfections here. 
 
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but there all gone. 
 
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Before
 
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After
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Deep scratches, even the owner doesn't know where they come
 
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After
 
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Before:
 
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After:
 
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CQuartz UK as a the final step. 
 
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Final pictures
 
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Toronto Auto Car Detailing 
http://getdetailed.ca/
 
Can the paint coating stand up against automatic car washes? Will is swirl and scratch after the wash or is it strong enough to resists those? 
 
fangster said:
Can the paint coating stand up against automatic car washes? Will is swirl and scratch after the wash or is it strong enough to resists those? 
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None of the coatings with keep the swirl-o-matic washes from scratching, they my help a little, but they will still scratch.
 
point of a coating is to provide more resistance, but they are not scratch proof.  User still needs to take care and use quality wash media, car wash is not it!  However, the light swirls and scratches will be in the coating layer instead of the clear coat for the most part, so polishing the coating away and recoating once a year is an option that I offer some of my clients who use the car wash ONLY as I dont offer car washing nor have the time to take 2 hours to wash a car with 300 steps.
 
I was thinking if I put it on my car that I could take it through the touch-less wash with the water cannon like things that spray water, soap, etc. Because the coating manufactures say dirt and contaminants don't stick to the coating and then I would just drive so the water will roll off because of the sheeting they advertise and people show. Idk if the towels the touch less car wash will scratch the coating. Would this work? Also when you are polishing the coating how do you know when you have gotten rid of all the coating and what coating do you recommend? I was looking at Opti-coat, Cquartz, Gtechniq, or Detailers paint coating and was just thinking to send it to the detailers that do my car when I don't have time and just add the coating after they are done at their facility. 
 
fangster said:
I was thinking if I put it on my car that I could take it through the touch-less wash with the water cannon like things that spray water, soap, etc. Because the coating manufactures say dirt and contaminants don't stick to the coating and then I would just drive so the water will roll off because of the sheeting they advertise and people show. Idk if the towels the touch less car wash will scratch the coating. Would this work? Also when you are polishing the coating how do you know when you have gotten rid of all the coating and what coating do you recommend? I was looking at Opti-coat, Cquartz, Gtechniq, or Detailers paint coating and was just thinking to send it to the detailers that do my car when I don't have time and just add the coating after they are done at their facility. 
Click to expand...


 


You really have to read though a lot of the marketing BS.


 


Touch-less washes never get the cars completely clean and they use harsh chemicals that are just not good for the cars. If you live in the snow belt, touch-less washes are just about the only option and I will even use them myself in the winter, but I always try and following up with a rinse-less or water-less wash when I get back home. Without some form of agitation the touch-less washes leave behind a fine dirt film, which can best be seen on the front windshield after running you wipers. Over time all that dirt will start bonding with the paint and claying and/or a chemical decon will be required to remove it.


 


IME it takes a good amount of polishing to fully remove most coatings, but if I do any polishign at all I always recoat. After polishing you'll have to strip the polishing oils and check for beading, which really isn't a full proof method for checking if the coatings is 100% gone, but its really all we have.


 


No wrong choice with any of the coatings as each excel in their own way...just know proper care is key regardless of which you choose. If you plan on applying it yourself after it's detailed you will want to tell them not to apply any wax or sealant, and you'll want to go over the car with IPA/Eraser prior to applying it. Probably better to have them apply the coating or you do the polishing and coating yourself. ;)


 


Hope you don't mind us going OT in your thread Hamza. :)
 
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