Technique for removing scratches with PC

J

justinschmidt1

New member
Ive got a PC, yellow cutting pad, and some ssr3.



How should I be using the pc to remove scratches with this setup?



Should I just hold the PC hard enough to keep it there?



Move very slowly for a couple minutes?



Should I keep going over it for 5 minutes or so?



Ive been seeing results but I want to see what you guys think I should do to maximize cutting power.
 
Hmm...Ive seen that video...it just looks like he works the polish in for a long time and does it very slowly....I just feel like its not doing anything but maybe I should just give it more time.



Im assuming the meguairs cutting pad isnt gonna do any more than my yellow cutting pad.





I need to invest in some 4 inch pads and a 3.5 inch backing plate I guess....



what do you guys think of the 4 inch pads with a drill?





Apparently you can use the 3.5 inch backing plate anda drill attatchment kinda like a rotary to increase cutting power...might be a good idea to use on spots with deep scratches
 
A drill with 4inch pads will give you the most cut by far.



Some spot buffing kits come with a backing plate that can be used to work with a drill and a PC. Go with that and some cutting pads and you'll be sweet!



Also SSR3 isn't very good at cutting with a PC, its definitely rotary only. In my opinion Meguiars M105 will cut nearly twice and its much more PC friendly.
 
If you want to get deep scratches out, you're probably better off wetsanding with unigrit 3000 and polishing out with an orange 4" pad and a mild compound than by using something like SSR3. It will happen a lot easier, with less scouring, and you'll have finer control over the amount of paint removed.
 
themightytimmah said:
If you want to get deep scratches out, you're probably better off wetsanding with unigrit 3000 and polishing out with an orange 4" pad...
Click to expand...





That's what I was thinking...but you gotta be careful and resist that "just a little bit more" temptation.
 
Accumulator said:
That's what I was thinking...but you gotta be careful and resist that "just a little bit more" temptation.
Click to expand...







lol...yeaaaaaaaaaaa....



I was wetsanding the other day on my car and couldnt resist that temptation...now I have a touch up paint blob



So I kinda dont want to wetsand anymore lol
 
justinschmidt1 said:
lol...yeaaaaaaaaaaa....I was wetsanding the other day on my car and couldnt resist that temptation...now I have a touch up paint blob



So I kinda dont want to wetsand anymore lol
Click to expand...



Heh heh, well, you're not the only guy who's done that!



IMO most people oughta probably stop wetsanding at the "gee, I haven't really done *anything* much yet..." point. By the time you work out the sanding scratches you end up doing more correction anyhow.



On the small pads with a drill, I've never tried it. Just remember that it'll basically be an awkward version of a rotary. Keep the speeds *down low* and try to keep the pad flat. Plan to repolish by PC as holograms/etc. are kinda likely. I myself would stick with the PC/4" and just plan to get a Flex or a rotary at some point (and in the meantime, I'd try to just not worry about the remaining marring that the PC/4" doesn't get ;) ).
 
A PC takes a lot of time to break down polishes ... that's the nature of the beast. Not breaking down polishes properly won't yield nice results.
 
get M105....its well worth it...its my new go to compound for defect removal via PC...some low-pro orange LC pads and M105 is an awesome combo for the PC
 
toyotaguy said:
get M105....its well worth it...its my new go to compound for defect removal via PC...some low-pro orange LC pads and M105 is an awesome combo for the PC
Click to expand...





hmm...can you buy m105 at any parts stores or do I need to order it online?
 
Sweet, I am gonna get some m105. I found that Optimum Compound II doesn't quite finish the job properly even after 4-5 passes. Like everyone is saying, the PC is slow to get the job done. Would a yellow LC CCS pad be worth it? or Orange should do? Also what polish would be recommended? I did the optimum polish and it was ok but not all that great with the PC.
 
xjonmo said:
how does M105 compare to Menzerna PG?
Click to expand...



M105 is to me a better polish then menz pg.The m105 is tough to learn(at least the old formula) but it finishes down really well.You can actually spend some time polishing with the m105 and stop and wipe the panel off and see how you are doing.



With the menzerna polishes they have to break down first before you can see the results but with the non-diminshing abrasives in the Megs products that is not the case.But i still love and still use my menzerna products.
 
seche said:
Sweet, I am gonna get some m105. I found that Optimum Compound II doesn't quite finish the job properly even after 4-5 passes. Like everyone is saying, the PC is slow to get the job done...
Click to expand...



Depending on the paint and what you're trying to correct, you can end up doing a lot more than 4-5 passes no matter what you're using, and that includes M105 even with wool pads and/or aggressive foam cutting pads.



Would a yellow LC CCS pad be worth it? or Orange should do?
Click to expand...

That's hard for anybody to answer as we just don't know about your situation. Yellow cuts more than orange. PFW cuts more too. Small 4" wool pads from Cyclo (made by Edge) cut quite a bit more and are about as aggressive as you can get with a PC.



I myself generally prefer using wool when orange foam won't do the job. The 3.5-4" PFW is pretty neat and IMO worth a try. It won't wow everybody, but it's still something you oughta try out just to see if it'll work for you. Note that PFW pads wear out pretty fast, so don't buy just one of them.



Also what polish would be recommended? I did the optimum polish and it was ok but not all that great with the PC.
Click to expand...



Eh...I'm not a fan of Optimum polish either. Having finally tried M205, I found that it's almost as special/wonderful/etc. as M105, so I'd recommend that. Note that I was predisposed towards *not* being favorably impressed with M105/M205. I was a very hard sell...but having worked with them I'm convinced and I'm no longer recommending the other stuff I used to.
 
Accumulator said:
Heh heh, well, you're not the only guy who's done that!



IMO most people oughta probably stop wetsanding at the "gee, I haven't really done *anything* much yet..." point. By the time you work out the sanding scratches you end up doing more correction anyhow.



On the small pads with a drill, I've never tried it. Just remember that it'll basically be an awkward version of a rotary. Keep the speeds *down low* and try to keep the pad flat. Plan to repolish by PC as holograms/etc. are kinda likely. I myself would stick with the PC/4" and just plan to get a Flex or a rotary at some point (and in the meantime, I'd try to just not worry about the remaining marring that the PC/4" doesn't get ;) ).
Click to expand...



lmao oh man accumulator good thing you don't work with me. I love to see how far I can push a piece of paper! lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top