Tar removal help needed.

S

Stickman81

New member
I have tried Bugsquash and Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover and some IP on a MF. This stuff does NOT want to come off.



Any suggestions short of sandpaper?



I'll be back at the car tomorrow morning.



TIA.



Click for the bigger pic.

 
try stoner's tarminator, hit it multiple times, that's some pretty nasty tarring...



also, I've heard people talk about "plastic razorblades", however I've had no experience with one.
 
autobahn said:
try stoner's tarminator, hit it multiple times, that's some pretty nasty tarring...



also, I've heard people talk about "plastic razorblades", however I've had no experience with one.
Click to expand...



Hummm - Plastic razor blades. I'll have to look for those.

I'll check for the tarminator too.



Thank you.
 
No need to scrape that tar. It really doesn't look that bad. If you spray it with some Crafco Asphalt Remover, get it from Exceldetail, that tar will soften up and you can hose it off.

I couldn't believe how good it worked until I tried it.
 
GTScott said:
Plastic blades are what I would go for. they sell them at most auto stores for gasket scrapers.



-GT
Click to expand...



Thanks Scott.



If I don't run out of time tomorrow, I will try that.

I've got 15 hours in the car already and am not done yet. :help:

I honestly don't see how you guys do it.
 
Gears said:
No need to scrape that tar. It really doesn't look that bad. If you spray it with some Crafco Asphalt Remover, get it from Exceldetail, that tar will soften up and you can hose it off.

I couldn't believe how good it worked until I tried it.
Click to expand...



Thanks Gears.

I will put that down to try on my next order. :hifive:
 
Plastic razorblades? Would not advice it, as soon as the edge on the razor blade becomes scored the scored edge will then scrape/skratch the surface. I would not do that.



I would try and loosen it by using some aerosal shampoo and very hot water and a rag. This might not remove this stuff but it should help loosen it up. (This step will not cause damage).



I would then dry the surface and use poop, (just kidding). (Sister in-law said use poop). Back to business. I would then try and use tar and wax remover, I know you said you used it already, but I would try it again after you have sofetened it up. You can also try and use clay bar, just make sure you use a piece you don't mind throwing away, because the clay will probably be worthless after tackling this task. You can use buffing cream and a rag, once you get to the point it might help, but that's the extent I would use any buffing cream.



I would not use:

sandpaper-cause more damage

plastic razorblades-cause more damage

buffer-cause more damage



Are you doing this for a customer? If so, this is one of the cases that you should say I did the best I could before you end up causing damage. (There are times when detailing can not fix everything, people have to understand this. I think this is one of those situations.) It's not necessarily the black spots I am concerned with it's the white color.
 
Kyrosene, very interesting.



If VaSuperShine says he used kyrosene and it did not leave damage, I would try that. I personally have not used it. But it his a strong chemical that might just do the trick.



Good thinking VaSuperShine.



Let us know if it worked.
 
autoprecise1 said:
Plastic razorblades? Would not advice it, as soon as the edge on the razor blade becomes scored the scored edge will then scrape/skratch the surface. I would not do that.



I would try and loosen it by using some aerosal shampoo and very hot water and a rag. This might not remove this stuff but it should help loosen it up. (This step will not cause damage).



I would then dry the surface and use poop, (just kidding). (Sister in-law said use poop). Back to business. I would then try and use tar and wax remover, I know you said you used it already, but I would try it again after you have sofetened it up. You can also try and use clay bar, just make sure you use a piece you don't mind throwing away, because the clay will probably be worthless after tackling this task. You can use buffing cream and a rag, once you get to the point it might help, but that's the extent I would use any buffing cream.



I would not use:

sandpaper-cause more damage

plastic razorblades-cause more damage

buffer-cause more damage



Are you doing this for a customer? If so, this is one of the cases that you should say I did the best I could before you end up causing damage. (There are times when detailing can not fix everything, people have to understand this. I think this is one of those situations.) It's not necessarily the black spots I am concerned with it's the white color.
Click to expand...





I gotta go with AP here. Heat, heat, heat. work a 3x3" section. Try a lil steamer, Apply some of your tar and wax remover via MF towel, hold the towel to the 3x3 inch area for 30 seconds. It should remove a considerable amount. rinse repeat. Litterally rinse.



You have to make the tar expand and become porous, it will not absorb bug/tar/wax remover untill it is porous. How do you make it porous. Heat. plain and simple.



after it's heated the tar is plyable resist trying to scrape it off. Just apply the bug/tar/wax remover. As the tar cools it will have already started disolving.



the key is spot treatment of the bug/tar/wax wash. this is not a spray and let sit thing. It's a process. Skip a step and your results will suffer.
 
Thanks for the tip Grouse.



I also had a buddy tell me to try Kyrosene.



The owner is a buddy of mine. (I'm practicing on his car) :nervous2: I showed him all the tar today. He did not realize there was so much of it. He said not to worry with it too much. I will try to do something with it tomorrow after I finish up the interior and put a coat of EX on the car.



I'll scout around tomorrow and see what items mentioned here can be found nearby.



Thanks again everyone. :xyxthumbs
 
VaSuperShine said:
i had a similar issue a few weeks back on a minivan, kyrosene did the tick and left no sign of damage behind.
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Even better than kerosene is some mineral spirits at the local paint or hardware store. Most of the mineral spirits sold at the stores is of the cheaper higher aromatic kind that helps disolve the tar. Soak a rag, wring it out so it's not dripping and then proceed to rub over the affected area. It should disolve the majority of the tar and soften the rest so that it can be wiped clean. It may take a couple apllications and remember to wax afterwards as it takes any wax off also.
 
if you are reluctant to use kerosene, try some plain old sap and tar remover, AC Delco make a good one.

You gonna have to wash the area first with a strong car soap, apply the remover with a clean rag, buff it lightly and then wash it a again with car soap. You have to wax/seal it afterward though.
 
I recently used mineral spirits on road paint splatters on my truck and it worked great.

Needed a new sealant coat, but oh well.
 
I would put in another vote for the sap remover. While it does not have the bite of kerosene, it is a whole lot less dangerous to work with.



As for the plastic blades, I should add that we only use them on inner wheel wells. You do have to be careful to avoid causing additional scratches. However, knowing your attention to detail Jim, I have no doubt that you could handle this.



Let us know how it all comes out.



-GT
 
I just got done doing my boss' work truck with heavy tar/rust deposits/fallout...I had a really hard time as well - clay wouldnt even touch it. Has anyone tried the FK1 step 2 decontamination product? There had to be a better way to get this stuff off...It was a white truck, and it still has some of those tiny little orange deposits I want to get off next time I see it. Thanks
 
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