Swirl Marks Caused from Washing or Drying the car?

harrigrant91

New member
I have read a lot of threads discussing the best way to dry your vehicle to avoid swirl marks or scratching your paint. However, I see very few discussing the wash products and methods used. This seems strange to me. Wouldn’t the odds of scratching your paint be highest when washing the car, when it has the most dirt and grit, rather than drying it when it should be clean? I would think the product you wash the car with would be the most important part of your car kit. Am I way off base or missing something?
 
I have read a lot of threads discussing the best way to dry your vehicle to avoid swirl marks or scratching your paint. However, I see very few discussing the wash products and methods used. This seems strange to me. Wouldn’t the odds of scratching your paint be highest when washing the car, when it has the most dirt and grit, rather than drying it when it should be clean? I would think the product you wash the car with would be the most important part of your car kit. Am I way off base or missing something?

Your correct in what you use to wash the car is important..for me I use a natural lambs wool mitt, with two buckets of soap and water. The trick in washing for me is to get the car wet, get soap on it and let it dwell for a minute then use the mitt to loosen and rinse off. A good micro fiber drying towel would be the best selection to dry the car.

That said any time you lay a hand on the car they risk of marring the finish is there. No matter how careful you are with it, over time your going to get some marring.
 
Washing is very point but the point of the drying threads is to emphasize you can also have issues during drying since you are touching the paint at this time as well.

There can be a few different reasons: car was not well washed, poor quality drying towels, excess rubbing or using too much pressure, or using drying towels that are not clean (reusing them rather than washing).

One approach is to dry the windows first with a microfiber towel to get them a little damp before using them on paint. If you sheet the water off the car properly and have a decently waxed car, there should not be a significant amount of water on the paint. Some also use a drying aid to help the towel slide across paint to minimize drag. I only do this if I am intentionally using a detail spray or spray wax.
 
When washing a car soap/shampoo has lubricants in it to help the wash media glide gently across the surface. Drying, on the other hand, is usually done with just water which has a much lower lubricity. That is why drying can be just as, if not more likely to cause marring.

It does help to prime your drying media, as Bunky mentioned. I choose to mist my towel with ONR before starting my wash, even if I'm doing a traditional wash. It takes a minute or two for the fibers of a MF towel to begin to absorb the water, much like a damp sponge will absorb faster than a dry one.

Todd had a great bit of advice: If you are finding marring and not sure whether it is your washing or drying process that is causing it, wash the car using just one direction movements (front to back) and dry it using motions only in the opposite direction (Side to side & up & down). Then you can isolate based upon the direction of the marring.
 
Every time you touch your car, whether it be washing or drying, may cause swirls. There's no real way to avoid that. This is why it's so important to use quality products to wash and dry your car. These products will reduce the chances of swirls.
 
Every time you touch your car, whether it be washing or drying, may cause swirls. There's no real way to avoid that. This is why it's so important to use quality products to wash and dry your car. These products will reduce the chances of swirls.

This is true. That is why I teach to use the lightest touch possible. A swirl that is .1 micron deep is far easier to remove than one that is .5 micron deep.
 
This is true. That is why I teach to use the lightest touch possible. A swirl that is .1 micron deep is far easier to remove than one that is .5 micron deep.
Ain't that the truth. I've been very lucky in having light swirls. I can usually take them out with a hand application of polish.
 
Plenty of threads on washing as well but I get what you mean. It's probably because anytime your wiping a dry towel across paint it gets more attention. I have found a foaming and a very sudsy wool mitt like the Wookie is the softest wash media and lasts forever.
 
Thanks guys for the great information. When washing I use a two bucket system which has made a great impact on my results.

I’ve used MF mits as well as lambs wool mits and they work well – I found the wool mits released dirt and grit better than the MF mits. However, I recently began using a natural sea sponge, specifically a sea wool sponge, after reading great things from high end car detailers. I am amazed with this sponge and can’t believe they are not used or discussed more often. It’s the softest sponge I have ever felt (when wet) and it releases EVERYTHING it picks up off the car – better than anything I've used. Anyone else have experience using a natural sponge?

As for drying the car, I have tried many newer products (MF guzzlers, absorber, etc…) and I still find the sheepskin chamois to be superior. I have never had issues with them marring the paint and I like being able to frequently rinse the chamois while drying the car to remove any abrasive particulate leftover from the wash. You can’t do that with MF and the Absorber doesn’t have any nap to pull in dirt away from the paint.

I find it ironic that products that have been around for centuries are still outperforming the newer synthetic products, at least from my experience. I guess newer isn’t always better.
 
I have learned the hard way. Swirl marks on any driven car are hard to prevent completely. I have found three things helpful for me:

1) The type/brand of towels used to clean/dry/wax/etc.
2) The amount of pressure applied during contact can lessen the potential for problems.
3) Always make sure whatever touches the paint is free of debris. I know this sounds obvious but many people don't notice.
 
I’ve used MF mits as well as lambs wool mits and they work well – I found the wool mits released dirt and grit better than the MF mits. However, I recently began using a natural sea sponge, specifically a sea wool sponge, after reading great things from high end car detailers. I am amazed with this sponge and can’t believe they are not used or discussed more often. It’s the softest sponge I have ever felt (when wet) and it releases EVERYTHING it picks up off the car – better than anything I've used. Anyone else have experience using a natural sponge?

I noticed my girlfriend used a natural sea wool sponge in the shower and decided to try it on my car – I wasn’t that into her anyway... just kidding I got her a new one. I have been using the sea wool sponge ever since. They are insanely soft, absorbent, and do a great job at releasing what they pull off the car into the rinse water. I will never go back to another product.

I find it ironic that products that have been around for centuries are still outperforming the newer synthetic products, at least from my experience. I guess newer isn’t always better.

I just went back to using my natural chamois after experimenting with MF. I bought one of the cobra guzzlers and was not impressed. I really wanted to because of how expensive it was, but found them far less absorbent and would smear the water around the car. A natural chamois has always worked well for me and lasts for years with proper care.
 
once i have my vehicle free of swirls i try my best to keep that way by washing with the power washer and the foam cannon. soaping diligently and allowing to dwell. rinsing off and re-applying more suds and washing with woolie. rinsing then blowing dry with the master blaster. the chamois i have always felt is the best way to dry by hand with a bucket of clean water to rinse out affter every panel.
 
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