Swirl Mark Removers... they don't actually REMOVE the swirls, do they?

S

stiege

New member
The more I read, the more I realize that swirl mark removers (#9, 3M SMR, etc) don't actually remove swirls, but fill them. Classic's description of #9 says "Because it does not remove the layer of paint that contains the swirl, swirls may reappear as the wax ages. " SMR's label says "glaze" on it.



My question is, what will actually REMOVE the swirls left behind after using 3M's medium or fine cut compounds with the wool pad?



Thanks,



Jason
 
My assumption is that a smr *could* remove very, very minor flaws if the particular product has effective abrasives in it. Yes, all of the products called smrs I know of have fillers to cover up whatever was left behind. Perhaps wiping with a 50/50 isopropyl/water mix after using the smr in question will reveal what, if any flaws were removed and what was only filled in.



A variety of polishes have the ability to remove the marks left behind you refer to. Off the top of my head, 3m PI III MG, Megs Swirl Free Polish, Menzerna Final Polish to name a few.
 
Does anyone have experience with 3Mâ„¢ Finesse-Itâ„¢ II Finishing Material 39003? Looking DEEP into 3M's site, in their "Best of Show" process, they use this THEN the PI III MG.



Jason



Also, how much more aggressive is the PI III MG than the 3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish I already have but haven't used yet.
 
This isn't the case with all swirl removers. Poorboy's SSR line doesn't use fillers and uses dimishing abrasives to remove swirls.
 
~One man’s opinion / observations ~



3M Show Car Product Range:



1.Compounding 3Mâ„¢ Perfect-Itâ„¢ III Show Car Extra Cut Rubbing Compound P/N 39011,using a rotary buffer operating at 1800 rpm or less



2.Removing swirl marks 3Mâ„¢ Finesse-Itâ„¢ II Finishing Material P/N 39003,remove compound swirl marks using a rotary buffer



3.Machine glazing 3Mâ„¢ Perfect-Itâ„¢ III Show Car Machine Glaze P/N39012, using a rotary buffer





A few observations, based on using these products on different paints from single stage('85 Jag, '84 Volvo) to hard clear coat (current Audis, Subaru, Mazda):



PI-II RC (39002) seems a little more aggressive than PI-III RC (05933). Not a huge difference, they're both pretty mild.



PI-II dusts more.



PI-III might leave a slightly better finish.



Both can be used by hand, PC, or rotary. There are more aggressive 3m products that they claim can also be used with all three methods, such as Super Duty RC (05954) and PI-III Extra Cut (05936).



I'd follow any of these RCs with the PI-III MG (05937), which also works fine with any application method.





~Hope this helps~



Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon

justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *
 
Just got off the phone with very helpful guy at 3M. Here's what he said.



He didn't understand the Finesse-It II Finishing Material step in the "Best of Show"



http://www21.3m.com/dr/v2/ec_MAIN.E...8181&V1=559729&DSP=&CUR=840&PGRP=0&CACHE_ID=0



section of the 3M site, because he says that said FI II Finishing Material is LESS aggressive than the PI III Machine Glaze.



He said just use the 1200 sanding film disc, follow it up if I feel like it with the 3000 discs, use the PI III Extra Cut Rubbing Compound, then the PI III Machine Glaze, then protection. I'll probably use #7 then #26.



He said that the PI III MG has NO fillers.



Jason
 
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