Swirl, holograms and scratches. I have them all - need some help.

I

imported_Technics

New member
Yeah, I have the works. I'm getting ready to purchase a PC and would like to know what pads and products I should use to remove these. The car does have a clearcoat and I think a large amount of these scratches are from using the brush at the self-service bay before I started using the two-bucket method. There are some serious holograms on the sides of the car and there are also some heavier scratches on the hood roof and trunk. The swirls are all over.



Is there a particular product that can take care of these? Or do I need specific products for each?



Thanks in advance.
 
You can probably fix the marring with the PC, though some cases are tougher than others. I'd treat the whole car the same way, but work the worst of the marring longer.



I would recommend two products, 3M PI-III RC (05933) and PI-III MG (05937). These have been recently discontinued but are still commonly available. I got mine HERE



You might use the RC with a 4" cutting pad for added bite. Then use the RC again with a polishing pad. Then use the MG. That should at least get things *much* better.
 
i just detailed a taurus ( black ) that was swirled pretty bad.



i'll be posting pics in click and brag section in a few.



i used menzerna intensive polish and NXT. i also have used final polish 2 from menzerna after the IP.



i'm looking into getting some poorboys SSR2.5 and some vanilla moose from clearkote.



i use NXT to seal/protect and i also use wolfgang concourse paint sealant.



i am looking into getting some carnaube moose from clearkote as well



i'm sure there will be lots of combos posted to help you out
 
You're likely to get a mulitidude of recomendations as there a many exelent products out there. Many autopians love megs and poorboys products. I like the Autoglym stuff.



I had a couple of areas with heavy swirl marks and was able to get them all out.



I used Autoglym paint restorer with a PC/Sonus orange pad at speed 5.5, followed up with Super Resin Polish with a green pad at speed 4.5. Then hand applied Extra gloss protection.



You can see my results here (close up pics on 2nd page):

http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53930
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I know everyone will use something different.



Can we all agree that I will need to use some type of abrasive with a cutting pad? And then follow up with some type of polish on a polishing pad?
 
Yeah, that's a safe assumption, but plan on both products being abrasive (just different "cuts"). You might want to add an intermediate step where you use your more aggressive product with a polishing pad after the cutting pad. I almost always step-down in this way.
 
Tanat198 said:
You may wanna get extra pads for each step ie polishing pads.
Click to expand...



Not to Hijack, but I too have the Sonus DAS Pad Kit and I was just about to place an order for some Propel Pads. Will I be good just adding a blue polish and grey finishing pad or should I also add a green cutting pad? I would think that with the products I use I wont need any more cutting pads than the ones that came with the Sonus Kit. Does this sound right? BTW the only products I really use are Menzerna IP & FPII, AIO, Zaino/P21S/Souveran.
 
defiantely want a couple sets of pads.



i use meguiars products for customer cars half of the time. so i need a second set for those products, since my menzerna and wolfgang use another set.



any pics of the vehicle that needs the work ??
 
ACCUMULATOR,



Would you say that 3M PI-III RC (05933) and PI-III MG (05937), are more effective and better overall than megs #83 DACP follwed by Megs #80 Speed Glaze??



I'm having diffulty deciding between the two brands to use on my Spider scratched, swirl marked black car.



Thanx for the help.
 
I'm sure that 3M products are great and I like them ( no fillers in particular) But they dry way too fast for me to work with. It could be the weather in my country (hot+high humidity) I finally gave up on 3M PI-III MG and switch to 1Zpp instead. I can work the polish longer since it stays wet. Many perfer 1ZPP over #80 but it depends on your preference. You just have to try. I'm sure both of them will get rid of your problem easily.

Good Luck.
 
6speedZ said:
Not to Hijack, but I too have the Sonus DAS Pad Kit and I was just about to place an order for some Propel Pads. Will I be good just adding a blue polish and grey finishing pad or should I also add a green cutting pad? I would think that with the products I use I wont need any more cutting pads than the ones that came with the Sonus Kit. Does this sound right? BTW the only products I really use are Menzerna IP & FPII, AIO, Zaino/P21S/Souveran.
Click to expand...



I personally use MEGs. I never have experience using Sonus DAS pad. I usually use just polishing pads and finishing pads, 3-4 pads for each job. From the list of products u plan to use, I would say polishing and finish pad will do just fine.

Good luck.
 
gav'spurplez said:
defiantely want a couple sets of pads.



i use meguiars products for customer cars half of the time. so i need a second set for those products, since my menzerna and wolfgang use another set.



any pics of the vehicle that needs the work ??
Click to expand...



My car is my avatar. I have some pics but they really don't show the holograms, swirls and numerous scratches.



The car is lighter colored. Does that come into play in considering which products to use?
 
mystickid said:
..Would you say that 3M PI-III RC (05933) and PI-III MG (05937), are more effective and better overall than megs #83 DACP follwed by Megs #80 Speed Glaze??



I'm having diffulty deciding between the two brands to use on my Spider scratched, swirl marked black car.
Click to expand...



I just don't care for #83 so I do like the PI-III RC better. As for the follow-up product, both the MG and the #80 have their uses. The MG won't leave anything behind, and the #80 does. You might appreciate the #80 on a black car, especially if you can't get all the marring out.



I used the PI-III twins on a black rent-a-Suburban. No way I could get all the marring out (and I did a lot of the work by rotary). It looked OK after using the PI-III stuff, but it looked a lot better when I did it again using #80.
 
Super thanx Acculmulator for the wise advice.



Since I have quire abit of marring, I'll go with PI-III RC and #80 since i got a black car.



Thanx again!
 
Be sure to work the #80 until it turns clear (or sometimes pink, not sure why that sometimes happens :confused: ) so it breaks down. It can be a little tricky to tell when it goes clear on a black black car, so check the MF you use to buff it off. If you get tan/green/etc. color stuff on the MF when you buff it off you're not working it long enough.



Get some (non-cleaner) wax over the #80 and you should be all set.
 
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