Super Swirls

Jcrawford

Jcrawford

New member
Is there such a thing?? i worked today on my gf's car and no matter what i tried the spider webs would not go away. so i'm starting to believe that one can't achieve a swirl free finish on a moderately neglected car w/ a PC. am i right in this statement bc i sure am frustrated by this. process used was ssr 2.5 w/ white LC pad then ssr2.5 w/ yellow LC pad since the white pad didn't work. no dice. can spider webbing be so bad that it *needs* a rotary?
 
Tell us more about the vehicle in question.

You may need a rotary to make the make defect free. You could also try a compound with a cutting pad using the PC. After that follow up with a lighter polish with a polishing pad.

Another possiblity is the paint defects are not in the top layer of paint.

Eric
 
yes you need a rotary to get out the bad ones. i tried compound on my p.c. and it looked better but not good enough .. i got a rotary and compound and they came right out ., some will not agree with me but that is my experience .. sometimes you have to remove some clearcoat to get rid of defects .. thats what the rotary is for .. i like to go behind the rotary with the pc to get rid of swirl marks .. they compliment each other very well
 
Yes, there are some paint problems that require a rotary to fix. That being said, I have had amazing results using the PC, a LC cutting pad and Megs #83. I have no experience with the SSR series, so I can't offer any help there.

Here is a pic of a BADLY neglected Beretta. The left side is after washing, but before polishing, The right side is after 1 pass with DACP (about 5 minutes of buffing on that section of panel)
 
whoa !!!!!! :drool don that's alwesome. DACP is my go to product and is what i achieved swirl freeness on my truck. i didn't have any though. i guess ssr 2.5 is less abrasive than DACP???
 
before you start removing too much of your gf's clearcoat...answer a few questions...how long will she be keeping this car, can she afford a new paint job?, how well will this car be maintained after you remove the defects, and have you used any type of paint guage or magnafying lens to see how deep these "swirls/ spider webs" are? ...and are they in or under the clearcoat ....:dunno
 
edschwab: what type of product are you talking about? polishes :DACP, PWC, SSR 2.5, 1z UP,PP,MP

Poorboy: it's gonna be kept till the wheels fall off, it's an '02 ford focus. i never investigated it that carefully. just grab my PC and went at it? i'm just afraid to come aaacross this situatuion on a customer's car.
 
the same questions would still apply, even to a customers car ....I detailed some peoples cars for more than a decade and each year they got better and better, none ever needed repainting...if you do work for show cars, dealers or auctions then by all means get rid of every mark ...but use reason on an everyday vehicle that may be mis-treated and need swirl removal over and over again...
 
Poorboy said:
the same questions would still apply, even to a customers car ....I detailed some peoples cars for more than a decade and each year they got better and better, none ever needed repainting...if you do work for show cars, dealers or auctions then by all means get rid of every mark ...but use reason on an everyday vehicle that may be mis-treated and need swirl removal over and over again...
Click to expand...

:bigups Good info! A rotary isn't that much of demand now! :lmfao
 
bigron62 said:
yes you need a rotary to get out the bad ones. i tried compound on my p.c. and it looked better but not good enough .. i got a rotary and compound and they came right out ., some will not agree with me but that is my experience .. sometimes you have to remove some clearcoat to get rid of defects .. thats what the rotary is for .. i like to go behind the rotary with the pc to get rid of swirl marks .. they compliment each other very well
Click to expand...

Just be honest and tell us it was the NuFinish that worked.....:lmfao
 
Poorboy said:
the same questions would still apply, even to a customers car ....I detailed some peoples cars for more than a decade and each year they got better and better, none ever needed repainting...if you do work for show cars, dealers or auctions then by all means get rid of every mark ...but use reason on an everyday vehicle that may be mis-treated and need swirl removal over and over again...
Click to expand...

so sometimes a complete detail for a customer doesn't mean swirl free or at least swirl free in one session?
 
exactly ....a new or well maintained vehicle may come out near perfect, an older vehicle that gets a full detail once a year or decade may take a while to restore safely and they are the ones you can try to get on a maintenence schedule to start preventing and repairing the mis-treatment:bigups
 
Jcrawford said:
Poorboy: it's gonna be kept till the wheels fall off, it's an '02 ford focus. i never investigated it that carefully. just grab my PC and went at it? i'm just afraid to come aaacross this situatuion on a customer's car.
Click to expand...

I think you would be safe if you grabbed a bottle of DACP and tried it again. I suggest trying a small area, say a section about 1/4 of the hood. Use a small amount of DACP (many suggest making an "X" on the pad to start) then working the area until the DACP is gone. Once you've done that, use a clean cloth/NF and a bit of QD to clean up the area and check the results.

After a while of doing this, you kind of get a 'feel' for what you're going to need when going into a detail. It's still best though to try the least aggressive product first, perhaps the SSR IS less aggressive than the DACP, I really don't know.
 
SSR 2.5 is every bit as abrasive as DACP. If you can't remove the swirls with a cutting pad on the PC using SSR 2.5, DACP is not going to help. I would suggest using a rotary with a cutting pad. If you have no experience with the rotary, consider taking it to a professional. Just my 2 cents.
 
Don said:
Yes, there are some paint problems that require a rotary to fix. That being said, I have had amazing results using the PC, a LC cutting pad and Megs #83. I have no experience with the SSR series, so I can't offer any help there.

Here is a pic of a BADLY neglected Beretta. The left side is after washing, but before polishing, The right side is after 1 pass with DACP (about 5 minutes of buffing on that section of panel)
Click to expand...

Did you apply multiple coats of DACP or did you go five minutes with only one application and just kept working in the product?
 
ScreeminGTP said:
Did you apply multiple coats of DACP or did you go five minutes with only one application and just kept working in the product?
Click to expand...

I had applied the DACP to the pad, and buffed the area for about 5 minutes (that's when the DACP had dusted/had started to be removed by continued buffing) then I wiped what little was left off with a MF and some #34.

That's when I took the picture. Then I finished the "first pass" on the rest of the hood (doing the same as described above) and once that was done, I went over the whole hood again in the same manner.

(I consider a "pass" as being when you apply the product to the pad, then work it into an area until it's gone...when you reapply product to the pad and start buffing the same area again, I consider that a "2nd pass").

Every panel on the car was then done the same way...2 'passes' with DACP, then one pass with #82 Swirl Free Polish, then finally the NXT
 
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