Street Dreams Detail - Sprint Blue Audi RS4 Correction + Wolfs

dsms

New member
Audi RS4 full correction and detail with clear film removal. This car is driven hard and the owner has modified it (rather meticulously) with only the best. Last thing to do was get the paint up to par with a proper detail and correction.



Wheels and wash process:



Sonax FE

Optimum Powerclean

Citrus Wash

Iron X



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Nanoskin autoscub on the DA @ speed 1



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Onto film removal, this was done carefully and with the use of a heat gun and plenty of nitrile gloves. Your fingertips and knuckles will be torn up otherwise, there is no way around it. After removing all the film the paint underneath was also Nanoskin'd and then wiped with adhesive remover until everything was gone and smooth before polishing



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Masked trim before polishing, RS4 optioned with the titanium package (no alu trim)



Healthy paint readings after inspection with both LED and halogen lights. Lots of wash marring and some deep marks, this scared me a bit only because this is a very hard clear coat car and it takes a lot to instill swirls, luckily everything was reversible... with the right pad and polish



Correction was carried out using both Meguiars and Menzerna. M105 for the initial compounding stage followed by Powerfinish for polishing. All final polishing work was completed with the old reliable and track proven PO85rd on a blue foam pad.



Under the lights...



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50/50



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Side skirts as per usual took a beating, you can see the difference in gloss and depth before and after. Sprint blue hides a lot naturally but it can get kicked up a couple notches with correction work



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Original badge needed to be replaced, after removing it and correcting the area the owner decided it looked cleaner badge-less, it just seem to fit better with the cars stance as is



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Badge removed



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50/50



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Flake back in spades after final polishing



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After polishing the finish was cleaned further with IPA and Eraser before 2 coats of Body Wrap. I won't leave anything to chance when using some of the more boutique sealants and of course paint coatings the finish must be 100% clean before application. Worth the extra effort



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Total time 2.5 days



Thanks for reading :usa

All the best,



Dave

Street Dreams Detail
 
That is awesome right there! Beautiful color too. What a difference on the sideskirt with the 50/50. Did you use the dynabrade on it?
 
Dave,



The owner really had to be floored. I just love that color and you really finished it so well. Is he re applying ppf?



Is it a very soft clear or is it hard to correct and easy to scratch ?



Really nice job on both the correction and photography.
 
Great job Dave!!



I'm loving the Dynabrade but I can't wait until I get my Rupes from K.B. Same throw+lighter+less vibration than DA's= Awesomeness
 
mikemurphy234 said:
Great job Dave!!



I'm loving the Dynabrade but I can't wait until I get my Rupes from K.B. Same throw+lighter+less vibration than DA's= Awesomeness



Actually the Rupes has an even *longer* throw than the Dynabrade:



Dynabrade = 0.75" stroke

Rupes LHR21E = 21mm stroke = 0.826772"



That equates to a 10.236% increase, which will no doubt be awesome to work with.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
Actually the Rupes has an even *longer* throw than the Dynabrade:



Dynabrade = 0.75" stroke

Rupes LHR21E = 21mm stroke = 0.826772"



That equates to a 10.236% increase, which will no doubt be awesome to work with.



Good catch Charlie. Did some quick number crunching in my head when the LHR21E came out and I thought I remember them being very close. 21mm= even better!
 
Thomas Dekany said:
That is awesome right there! Beautiful color too. What a difference on the sideskirt with the 50/50. Did you use the dynabrade on it?



Thanks Thomas, I actually used a 3" pad with the rotary for the side skirts.



Barry Theal said:
Nice work Dave. Very nice attention to the smaller details as well.



Thanks Barry!



mikemurphy234 said:
Great job Dave!!



I'm loving the Dynabrade but I can't wait until I get my Rupes from K.B. Same throw+lighter+less vibration than DA's= Awesomeness



Same here!
 
Great work as always, Dave! You truly are the 50/50 master! :)



These cars are already sweet, but in this color they are just sick! Never seen one in person wearing this color....







Quick question for you Dave....how far back would you say your halogen lights are when you take those pics? I used to be able to pick up defects fairly well with them, but I can't seem to capture jack now days. My work area has shrunk considerably now that I have 3 motorcycles and another large tool box in there, and I'm starting to think it's because the lights are too close to the car...





Thanks,

Rasky
 
RaskyR1 said:
Great work as always, Dave! You truly are the 50/50 master! :)



These cars are already sweet, but in this color they are just sick! Never seen one in person wearing this color....







Quick question for you Dave....how far back would you say your halogen lights are when you take those pics? I used to be able to pick up defects fairly well with them, but I can't seem to capture jack now days. My work area has shrunk considerably now that I have 3 motorcycles and another large tool box in there, and I'm starting to think it's because the lights are too close to the car...





Thanks,

Rasky





Chad sometimes I put haolgens as far back as 7ft. to capture a wide 50/50. Play with sharp angles and turn the light away from paint at different angles, sometimes less halogen light directly on a panel helps to un-blurr smaller defects. And make sure you have no other lights in your garage. I also take the protective cages off my standing halogens. Those damn .2mm thick black bars are robbing my precious light... well at least the halogen square shows up sharp on camera without them!
 
dsms said:
Chad sometimes I put haolgens as far back as 7ft. to capture a wide 50/50. Play with sharp angles and turn the light away from paint at different angles, sometimes less halogen light directly on a panel helps to un-blurr smaller defects. And make sure you have no other lights in your garage. I also take the protective cages off my standing halogens. Those damn .2mm thick black bars are robbing my precious light... well at least the halogen square shows up sharp on camera without them!



Thanks David! I'll see what I can do to get my lights back further...right now they are probably 3-4 feet max. :xyxthumbs
 
drew935 said:
Dave great work as usual!

How come the film had to come off? Was it marred and swirled underneath it?



The film was at the tail end of 4 years on the RS4 and had some yellowing. Swirled film can be corrected but once yellowing and hard etching are easily visible its time for it to be replaced.
 
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