Street Dreams: 2010 Camaro paint correction

ihetenyi

New member
Valuguard OEM one step & Finishing wax



I recently tried out Ron’s OEM one step product and Finishing wax on a portion of my 2001 Red Jetta wolfsburg. I purchased the OEM one step from Autoint.com ($11 a quart) and had a free sample of the finishing wax product on hand. All work done by hand, in the shade of a dedicated car wash bay (except where noted below).



Benchmark – the Jetta currently has AIOx2, SGx5 at 24 hour intervals, Blitzx2 at 1 week interval. Tough combo IMHO.



Day 1 Prep – I stripped the front fender and half of the hood using Valuguard’s A product. I allowed the product to dwell longer than normal (about 10 minutes) with constant agitation as it had quite a bit of protection to break down. When I had that ‘squeaky’ feeling on the paint, I rinsed with a strong stream of water and observed the rinse to make sure the water sheeted as expected. Its hard to describe the sheeting of unprotected paint, but once you’ve seen it its very easy to differentiate from the sheeting you might see on a klasse surface.



Day 1 Application of OEM One Step – This product is very similar to AIO in description. As the name implies, it’s a one step process that cleans, removes light oxidation and lays down a coat of polymer protection. I applied using a viper MF applicator to the treated portion of the hood and fender in a linear manner front to back. The consistency and smell of the product was also similar to AIO. I used fairly generous amounts and applied varied pressure, mostly on the moderate side. Wait 10 minutes then buffed with the ‘non-fluffy’ side of a MT. Even though I used quite a bit of product, the product buffed off easily. The resulting look was smooth, fairly slick with a nice reflection. It looked just like an AIO application had been completed. Not bad for $11 bucks a quart!



Day 2 Finishing Wax – I’ll admit it. I screwed up here. It was mid morning, and I was anxious to try out the wax but one my neighbors had the audacity to get his car into the wash bay before me. Accordingly, I pulled under the nearest pint sized tree for shade. The surface of the car was still warm from the sun, but I went ahead and cleaned the surface with a little distilled water and a MT. The finishing wax is a liquid polymer product with a small carnauba content and is promoted as a body shop safe product. I applied a small amount to another MF viper applicator and applied in a similar manner to the OEM but in a thinner coat. After a 15 minute wait, I attempted to buff the product off only to find that that the surface was nothing but micro mars, swirls and streaks! It looked really awful compared to the rest of the car. Of course, the issue was technique – I believe the surface was too warm and the applicator needed to be foam.



Day 3 The Do-Over – No way was I leaving a fourth of my car looking like that. Up at the crack of dawn, I stripped the area again with A and reapplied the OEM (One side note here – it took several applications and a good deal of agitation with the A to get this stuff broken down – that’s probably a good thing). Same results – still a very good product IMO. Since I didn’t have time for a day four, I only let the OEM sit for 8 hours prior to attempting the wax (I spritzed with distilled water again…). I applied the wax almost like SG, using a pinnacle foam pad to apply small amounts in a linear fashion. The coat sat for 15 minutes and was then buffed with a MT (buffs out easily). All my issues were gone with the first wax application. The finish was smoother, ‘slicker’, and maybe a little wetter. Very nice but also unforgiving – it seemed to highlight the flaws that were in the actual paint where as SG seems to (gradually) hide small imperfections.



Durability – I’ve washed the car twice since the final application. The surface is still very smooth and my MF wash mitts just glides over it when washing. The water sheets off the area nicely with any remaining moisture beading up okay. The beading is not like the blitz side at all.



Verdict – The OEM one step is a good deal. I’m definitely going to use it on friend’s cars who are looking for a one pass quick hit. The Finishing wax is another good product but requires you to pay attention to what you are doing. I’d like to make a couple layers with the Finishing wax before judging it against the rest of the car, but I have to say its very hard to differentiate between the two areas of the hood without touching the surface (Blitz’s spongy feeling gives it away…).



Steve
 
Nice review wolfsburg.



I can't wait to try out my sample of OEM and Finishing wax. I will do this to one of my less than frequent customers cars where I don't have much time.



Thanks for the heads up about Finishing wax. Now to my nap



:)



Jason
 
2010 Camaro SS

Car in very clean shape with the exception of the paintwork that had some damage caused by the dealer. Some areas of the paint had only minor marring but other areas had clusters of scratches and swirls which needed a more extensive process for correction.

The car came to me early in the morning, temperature was around 15 degrees so the usual wash process had to be inside to avoid frozen water on the finish.

Before moving I was able to pressure wash the wheels and tires and clean them up as needed. Striping off dealership silicone based tire dressing was my main concern.

Now inside I used ONR with a slightly different method of application. 1 sprayer bottled filled with ONR QD strength plus a little extra for added lubricity, 1 microfiber wash mitt and 1 bucket with a grit guard.

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I will only use this method on clean cars, caked up road grime etc. is not ideal for this wash method.

Get your mitt saturated with water, wring out the excess and begin ONR washing panel by panel. Spray the ONR mixture onto the panel liberally to keep everything slick. This helps greatly for keeping water usage to a minimum, I do not have drains in my garage so keeping water off the floor is nice as well.

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ONR dispersing same as 2 bucket method

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Dried the car and began claying

Dried once again after claying

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Before correction I gave the car a few alcohol wipedowns and then taped up the vinyl graphics and window trim.

Measured the paint, some areas were a little low for a brand new car.

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Onto correction...

Few random scratches on the hood

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Settled on a 2 step process for the correction, the deeper scratches needed a spot compounding pad to handle.

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Front fender before

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After

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Video 50/50 on the hood



Drivers side needed a little more cut...

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Polishing stage

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Trunk area

Before defects

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After correction

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Before

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And after

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Dealership sticker removed

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Swipe scratches on the trunk as well

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Sun shots after correction

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After 2 alcohol wipedowns, I pulled the car out in the sun to check for holograms etc.

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Back inside for LSP and finishing work

Sealed the wheels

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Buffed off after 30mins

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Tires and wheel wells dresed

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Dressed the window trim

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Exhaust polished and rear valence dressed

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Engine given a wipedown and cleaned up the jambs

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Interior was in excellent shape, treated all the trim and dash with 303 for protection. Carpets cleaned up with Folex and doorjambs sealed.

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303 protection used on the vinyl graphics as well

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Finished shots

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Walkaround video

 
So Dave, who where the two youds who messed up such a fine automobile? I'm not surprised after seeing cars on dealer lots after a few washings:w00t:

Very nice finals and it does look better than new after you did your magic:wizard:
 
Dave,
Nice job man ,the car looks great !
The product you used on the vinyl inside I want to get sum,I have been looking for sum thing safe,I have had sum not so pleasant experiences with recent cars with painted vinyl.What is the product you used on the wheels ?
They look great ! I assume the Hockey stripe package is vinyl isnt it ? did you treat that at all ?
I have the LS3 version with the 6M.....sorry you had to detail the girly version with the auto....just kidding...:biggrin:....nice Job !
 
Sweet color! Great job Dave with the polishing, it came out 'brill' <- Did I say that correctly?!

Insert British accent....."Thats brill that is". I have a buddy named Graham and he is from Birmingham England(united airlines captain) and after I did his BSA motorcycle he said that..."thats brill that is" so I ask "what does that mean" and he said "it means briiliant as in uber tightness"
 
Fantastic detail and a great write-up!

Off topic - but am I the only one who feels that the 'fin' style radio has no business being on this kind of vehicle?
 
Hey David,

As usual, great job on the Camaro. You did a beautiful detail, and a very nice write-up.

Btw, love that color:drool5:
 
Dave,
Nice job man ,the car looks great !
The product you used on the vinyl inside I want to get sum,I have been looking for sum thing safe,I have had sum not so pleasant experiences with recent cars with painted vinyl.What is the product you used on the wheels ?
They look great ! I assume the Hockey stripe package is vinyl isnt it ? did you treat that at all ?
I have the LS3 version with the 6M.....sorry you had to detail the girly version with the auto....just kidding...:biggrin:....nice Job !

I used 303 protectant, usually leaves a more matte finish on flat surfaces but the pourus texture on the dash didnt help.

Thanks!
 
nice job....what size is and brand is that black foamed backing plate ? is that the gloss it or megs. thats a cool set up

thx
 
Dave, I love to see Camaros taken care of properly. Thanks for giving me my fix today :)

Great work and great writeup! Thank you for sharing!
 
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