Still hazing

M

Marj

New member
I have been working a 2 foot square area with my pc and polishing pad with DACP, 3 or 4 times now. I have worked the product till it looks dry, seems to be about 4 min, but still the black paint has a haze to it. The pc is set to 6 with some pressure behind it and the vehicle is a new G35. Should I break out the rotary?
 
Buffing haze is usually normal for moderatly abrasive products such as DACP. You can take out the haze with #82 or #9 with a white pad. It should work.
 
You definitely need a milder polish after DACP on black using a PC. If you have rotary skills DACP can polish out to a haze-free finish. Personally too risky when a mild polish/cleansers like GEPC/VM and Menzerna FP exist that work well with PC. Follow with AIO and you are set to protect. JMHO
 
Yeah, getting a haze-free finish out of #83 with a PC (as opposed to a rotary) just doesn't happen on some paints. Try following up with a milder polish, but I wouldn't use the #81. It's basically nonabrasive and you need something with a little cut to it.



Most people find the FP works just great. #82 can too, but IMO it's trickier to use.
 
Yeah, just like everyone else said, that's normal. DACP does haze black.. That's how I know it's working...



When you go over it with the polish or wax, you'll remove the haze.



Most of us do a 'three step' process:



1: compound (DACP)

2: polish (swirlfree, #9, etc)

3: wax



This way, we remove swirls, then fill and shine, then protect..
 
bcgreen said:
When I use this polish, whether its #9 or #82, do you use the pc or the rotary?

Thanks
Click to expand...



I'd use whichever you're most comfortable with. By the time you get to that step, you shouldn't *need* the rotary, but it can speed things up if you're handy with it.



FWIW, I only do my more aggressive work with the rotary, then I switch to the Cyclo or the PC.



But if you're using the DACP with a rotary, you just might get a ready-to-wax finish with it. It seems to break down differently with the rotary than it does with the PC, according to people who are *much* more familiar with DACP than I am.
 
Yeah, what he said...^^^



There's no need to use the rotary for the polish. I'd stick with the PC with everything except the 1st step though...
 
I just started using a PC this week for the first time. I started out on my wife's '93 dark green Lebaron, and I found out I got a little bit of hazing with the DACP as well. I've been using Meguir's #81 hand polish to go over everything after the DACP, and it works like a charm. Milder than the DACP, and the #81 goes on and off very quickly and easily by hand.



-Keith
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, getting a haze-free finish out of #83 with a PC (as opposed to a rotary) just doesn't happen on some paints. Try following up with a milder polish, but I wouldn't use the #81. It's basically nonabrasive and you need something with a little cut to it.



Most people find the FP works just great. #82 can too, but IMO it's trickier to use.
Click to expand...



Would #80 be a good follow-up to the DACP?
 
Cam- yeah the #80 would work fine and it's my favorite Meg's polish. But it's probably a little more aggressive than needed to remove DACP hazing. Not a big issue unless you're polishing all the time, but it's always best to take off as little paint as possible (yeah, that's sorta a disclaimer ;) if you have the #80, *I'd* go ahead and use that).
 
Well, yesterday I found a dealer that carried #82. So last night I started on the G35 and picked one of the areas that had the hazing. I put on a finishing pad and some #82 and set the speed to 5 and worked the area till it looked dry but not quite, probably just over a minute. Wiped it off to check my work and the haze was still there. So I applied some more product and decided maybe it needed a little pressure, about a pound, and worked the product again till dry. Wiped down again, still haze. So I applied some more product again, turned down the speed to 4 and worked the product a little bit longer and then wiped down, still haze. Tried one more time with just the weight of the pc (I could see the pad spin occasionally) and wiped down again, and still had the haze. So I put the pad on the rotary and worked the spot for about 10 sec and till it looked like the product broke down, and yet I didn't want to burn the paint. The spot was pretty warm when I wiped down, but surprisingly the haze was almost completly gone. I decided at this point I had better stop before I do some major damage and so went ahead an applied the wax.

I really would rather use the pc, its just so much better with the stress level not as high as when I am using the rotary.
 
Do you have any VM, GEPC or AIO. Try applying one of these products on a spot and see if haze is diminished. This may be all you need to rejuveniate the gloss. :wavey
 
I have GEPC. In fact in middle of all this I tried GEPC just before going to the rotary and it didn't make any decernible difference. I must say, at least the rotary speeds up the process considerably.
 
bcgreen- In light of your recent efforts, and your concerns about using the rotary more than necessary (probably smart, given your experiences so far), I thing you oughta try the #80 with the PC. It should work great and save you a lot of time and stress.



#82 can be a little tricky to use, whereas the #80 is *very* user-friendly.
 
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