Sticky Leather, Leatherique did not improve

SamXp

New member
I bought a 2001 BMW M3 in March of 2007. When I bought it, the leather was in decent shape, no cracks, creases, etc but the driver's seat had a shiny/tacky feel on any surface that your back touches.



I figured this was the combination of improper leather cleaning products, and the sweat/oils/salts from the previous owner(s). I cleaned regularly with a few popular leather products such as Zaino Z9 and Duragloss 221. No improvement. Just clean and smells good.



I stepped it up a notch and bought a Leather Masters kit with the Strong Cleaner, Leather Vital and Protection Cream. Warmed up the leather by letting it sit in the sun, and then tried repeated cleanings with the Strong Cleaner, a mild brush, and then rinsed with a cotton towel, continually rinsed in clean water. No improvement at all.



I decided to give the popular Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil a try after strong recommendations on M3forum.net. Again, it is recommended that the car be allowed to sit in the sun with the windows closed to warm up the leather and "open the pores". The first time I did Leatherique, it really wasnt' that warm and I only let the oil sit for about 4 hours. Washed off with Leatherique Pristine Clean. No improvement at all.



I repeated the process this weekend on Sat morning. Warmed up the seat with the seat heater. Applied a liberal amount of the Rejuvinator oil. Massaged it in by hand (man, where my hands soft afterwards!) and then closed the windows and let the car sit.

It was hot all day Sat. It was hot all day Sunday. Finally, Sunday night, I used the Pristine clean to wash off the gummy, oily residue from the Rejuvinator oil and who knows what is sitting on my seat. It seemed to get less tacky as I cleaned it. But After wiping it with a MF towel, and allowing it to dry, I dare say the seat is even more sticky. I repeated the Pristine clean, and towel bath with clean water, thinking I hadn't adequately removed the Rejuvinator Oil. Let it dry and it's still tacky.



Today, after the car sat in the sun in the parking lot at work, the back panel is as sticky as a postit note. The other surfaces look great (bottom, side bolsters, headrest, etc), it is just the back. Primarily the upper portion where your shoulder blades rest.



Is my leather beyond repair? Apart from the fact that it looks shiny and not matte as when new, my shirt sticks to the seat and pulls away as I lean forward. I'm beyond frustrated. I really thought Leatherique would do it. Did I do something wrong during the cleaning/application process?



Sorry for the long post. This is the culmination of a lot of frustration!
 
steveo3002 said:
hmmm i think id invest in a re color kit , such as the leathermagic kit



just refinish that panel...its pretty easy to do

I was hoping to avoid doing that. I mean, shoot, how hard should it be to remove whatever gunk is on there? I swear, I'm about to try some Simple Green on this crud.
 
to me it sounds like something has effected the coating and its failed?



i guess theres no harm in trying various apc solutions , but dont be affraid of the re color system, it works very well
 
steveo3002 said:
to me it sounds like something has effected the coating and its failed?



i guess theres no harm in trying various apc solutions , but dont be affraid of the re color system, it works very well

I'm leaning in that direction, the more I do. Something has actually softened the polyurethane coating (which is an extremely chemical resistant material) and this isn't any type of "residue" at all.



I'm going to try a few more "dangerous" cleaners. Maybe some APC, woolite, yes. And if I end up having to recolor, then so be it. I've already spent $100 in leather products that haven't worked. Might as well spend another $50.
 
Dude, just tried Simple Green 5:1 and it didn't make a difference. What is crazy is that I can clearly see right at the top, where it wouldn't touch your shirt, and it is smooth and matte and supple. And then right around the corner, on the front face, it is shiny and tacky and sticky.



Someone did some serious sweating and jacked this leather up some kind of serious.



I even took a 3M scouring pad and scrubbed on the leather with a good amount of pressure. Wiped it down with a damp cloth and it's the same.
 
It sounds like the coating is damaged. You might have to strip the coating down and refinish the leather. You can hire someone to do it or you can give it a go yourself. If you want to try it yourself, then give Jon at LRT a call.
 
now youve been at it with the scour pad and degreaser its pretty much prep'd for the colourant , maybe give it another wipe with alcohol or whatever the dye kit includes



just sponge or airbrush some on and i bet it will reseal the surface , sounds like its never gona clean up thats for sure



or have a pro do it...just make sure they use the waterbased stuff as ive the solvent based dye can crack quiet soon
 
This sounds as though the previous owner sweated a lot and the body oils have damaged the finish and soaked into the leather. If this is the case 'cleaning' on its own will not have any real effect other then cleaning what is left on the surface, there will be much more under the surface.



If you try to recolour/refinish as it is you will have adhesion problems and the finish will not cure.



The panel will need a professional degreaser to remove the body oils and then the panel will need recolouring and refinishing with a good professional recolouring system.

Hope this helps
 
Thanks guys. I'm gonna stop fretting about it with the Rejuvinator oils, then. The car is a convertible, so it's possible this guy did a lot of top down driving in the hot summers and sweated up these seats for good.



Can any of you recommend a good water-based recolor kit that won't break the bank? I do have an airbrush, and would definitely like to apply it with an airbrush if that will help make it coat more evenly.
 
Is it very expensive or a lot of work just changing the part that is damaged? If it's sticky will new color really help? I have no idea, just thinking out loud here.
 
I've done leather cover replacement before, it's just tedious, nothing tricky about it. A new cover from BMW is ~$700, though. I'd rather get some lightweight racing seats at that point.



The leather is probably just coated in a water-based polyurethane paint, so I can't imagine it would be very difficult to rough the existing coat down a bit, and then spray a fresh coat of polyurethane on top. I'm assuming I wouldn't want to rough the damaged Polyurethane coat all the way down to raw leather, but almost.
 
Yes the leather will have a polyurethane or nitro-cellulose finish over a pigment colour. The problem will be that the new pigment or finish will not adhere to the leather if there is any grease present and sanding will not remove the problem.



Spraying colour on is not the best way to get an even coating.
 
judyb said:
Yes the leather will have a polyurethane or nitro-cellulose finish over a pigment colour. The problem will be that the new pigment or finish will not adhere to the leather if there is any grease present and sanding will not remove the problem.



Spraying colour on is not the best way to get an even coating.

Can you point me to any good threads/articles on the process? I don't want to just make it worse.
 
ive seen leatherique threads where they thinners off the dye/paint/coating or whatever you call it until its almost bare . the two kits ive used came with some prep solution , that pretty much shifted the top coat when used with a scotch pad



judy ...do car makers really still use cellulose products ? i thought they went out in the early 80s
 
The finish type will depend on the age of the car. Nitro-cellulose finishes are still used in the restoration of leather.

You can remove finish with a thinner or acetone remover but this will not cure any grease problem if there is one.
 
Interesting. I bought some Leather Master Vital and it reduces the tackyness a bit. Still shiny, but doesn't stick to my shirt as much.
 
Well, if it hasn't lost or changed color, you don't need to reapply color, just the clear topcoat (satin or matte). That is much easier, less expensive, and eliminates the possiblity of a mismatch. Several coats with a little dry time between will take care of the tackiness and should also help even out the differing glosses. I agree that all the cleaners you've already used prepped the surface. Just get a hold of 4 oz. of topcoat (with cross-linker), and you're good to go. On matte or satin finish, even masking is probably optional.
 
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